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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1311
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    GREAT JOB! Milestones like this make you believe that the job will get done.

  2. #1312
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    a less costly stuff to go between fender and body?? and to wrap the steering column kinda pricey
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-fen...j-2a-3a-3b-m38

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steerin...3b-5-m38-m38a1

    another question?? when windshield up, what makes it stay up?? and not fall forward when braking hard??
    Last edited by pelago; 02-27-2019 at 11:15 AM.

  3. #1313
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Does this apply to M38A1?

    " a less costly stuff to go between fender and body ?

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-fen...j-2a-3a-3b-m38"

    When I look at the "Where Used", the catalog does not include M38A1. Did the A1 use this welt?

  4. #1314
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The M38A1 uses the same windshield latches that the CJs and M38 used. On the Kaiser Willys M38A1 windshield diagram it's item 12.
    The material for the fenders to the body can be made out of thin inner tube. It is there more to prevent squeaking of the body and fender mating surfaces.

  5. #1315
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The M38A1 uses the same windshield latches that the CJs and M38 used. On the Kaiser Willys M38A1 windshield diagram it's item 12.
    The material for the fenders to the body can be made out of thin inner tube. It is there more to prevent squeaking of the body and fender mating surfaces.
    i wondered about that, a piece of rubber to me would hold moisture and help rust develop. to me logic would be to not have anything that holds moisture??

  6. #1316
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The original material was of a thin rubber material. It would be no different than the rubber body mounts up against the body when mounted. As long as the fender hardware retains torque, the rubber will keep water from penetrating the joint. Apply an extra coat of paint on those areas to ensure that rust doesn't form.

  7. #1317
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    COULD NOT STAND IT HAD TO START IT HAD NOT RUN SINCE LAST FALL. BUT DARN, the starter button did not reach the actuator on the starter enough? not sure i understand all i need to know about that. oh well, another solution looking for a problem. yeah on the thin rubber, think i i will check out lowes tmrw. so i used the trusty vice grip and she hit on first rev, sounded good to hear it run again. A look at the photo shows the distance it has to travel before even engaging the switch to activate the darn thing, whole lot

    starter.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 02-27-2019 at 10:48 PM.

  8. #1318
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Does the starter actuator feel as if it is traveling its full range? Sometimes the spring gathers as it collapses, and doesn't allow for the button to travel the full length. If that checks out, then I would look at the upper transmission cover to ensure it hadn't been beat backwards for clearance for an engine swap. If both those items check out, worst comes to worst, a nut and washer could be tacked on to the floor switch to take up the clearance.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #1319
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Does the starter actuator feel as if it is traveling its full range? Sometimes the spring gathers as it collapses, and doesn't allow for the button to travel the full length. If that checks out, then I would look at the upper transmission cover to ensure it hadn't been beat backwards for clearance for an engine swap. If both those items check out, worst comes to worst, a nut and washer could be tacked on to the floor switch to take up the clearance.
    can not see any any bends that do not look right, actually have two of them and been told that they can be adjusted out?? looks to me like there is one solid rod and it has one end pressed on?? a retainer clip holding it on? dunno, darn thing is just too short, might have to weld something on end as you say, but took it off with same engine?

  10. #1320
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Rubber Rattle Strips

    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The original material was of a thin rubber material. It would be no different than the rubber body mounts up against the body when mounted. As long as the fender hardware retains torque, the rubber will keep water from penetrating the joint. Apply an extra coat of paint on those areas to ensure that rust doesn't form.
    My curiosity got the best of me and I looked in the '48's Parts Manual. In the Fender Groups they list "Prestite strips, rubber, 1/16" x 1 inch" for the front and rear fenders. I don't recall if we put strips back or not...

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