" a less costly stuff to go between fender and body ?
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-fen...j-2a-3a-3b-m38"
When I look at the "Where Used", the catalog does not include M38A1. Did the A1 use this welt?
" a less costly stuff to go between fender and body ?
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-fen...j-2a-3a-3b-m38"
When I look at the "Where Used", the catalog does not include M38A1. Did the A1 use this welt?
The M38A1 uses the same windshield latches that the CJs and M38 used. On the Kaiser Willys M38A1 windshield diagram it's item 12.
The material for the fenders to the body can be made out of thin inner tube. It is there more to prevent squeaking of the body and fender mating surfaces.
i wondered about that, a piece of rubber to me would hold moisture and help rust develop. to me logic would be to not have anything that holds moisture??Originally Posted by gmwillys
The original material was of a thin rubber material. It would be no different than the rubber body mounts up against the body when mounted. As long as the fender hardware retains torque, the rubber will keep water from penetrating the joint. Apply an extra coat of paint on those areas to ensure that rust doesn't form.
My curiosity got the best of me and I looked in the '48's Parts Manual. In the Fender Groups they list "Prestite strips, rubber, 1/16" x 1 inch" for the front and rear fenders. I don't recall if we put strips back or not...
COULD NOT STAND IT HAD TO START IT HAD NOT RUN SINCE LAST FALL. BUT DARN, the starter button did not reach the actuator on the starter enough? not sure i understand all i need to know about that. oh well, another solution looking for a problem. yeah on the thin rubber, think i i will check out lowes tmrw. so i used the trusty vice grip and she hit on first rev, sounded good to hear it run again. A look at the photo shows the distance it has to travel before even engaging the switch to activate the darn thing, whole lot
starter.jpg
Last edited by pelago; 02-27-2019 at 10:48 PM.
Does the starter actuator feel as if it is traveling its full range? Sometimes the spring gathers as it collapses, and doesn't allow for the button to travel the full length. If that checks out, then I would look at the upper transmission cover to ensure it hadn't been beat backwards for clearance for an engine swap. If both those items check out, worst comes to worst, a nut and washer could be tacked on to the floor switch to take up the clearance.
can not see any any bends that do not look right, actually have two of them and been told that they can be adjusted out?? looks to me like there is one solid rod and it has one end pressed on?? a retainer clip holding it on? dunno, darn thing is just too short, might have to weld something on end as you say, but took it off with same engine?
I don't recall it being adjustable. The one in the first picture was retained, but a good soaking of penetrant and it worked fine. The engine/transmission mounts are not slotted fore or aft, so there shouldn't be an issue there. Just making sure, is the rear of the body even with the rear cross member, or is it hanging over? There might be just enough play to allow you to shift the body forward, but not that much.
actually when i dropped the body on the frame, incredible as it sounds, when i looked down the holes for the three bolts in the front, i was able to drop the bolts in. incredible.,, the two carriage bolts were maybe 1/8th off, and some wiggle with a large handled phillips took care of that, and the two bolts on the bottom of the rear floor that go into the frame were same way, just lined up as they were supposed to be. but i took some advice and when the body being re assembled on the spare frame it was all done with bolts holding it down for welding. that was a strong strong tip and it paid off. the two mounting bolts that go on the rear of the tail gate are a bit off but so is rear bumper, but will sort that out.. and rubber spacers in all of them. and since that i have added ground straps to the body from frame.
working still on the starter solenoid button, welded a nut on the business end and dam if it is still a smidgen off.. but there are adjustments on the starter on the activating rod and friday gooing to play with that.
new topic, in all the years, of being around jeeps i never ever saw a scabbord, now for driving in a veterans day parade think a M1, maybe a carbine, maybe a M14??? got three sniper rifles also, USMC model 1941, 1903A4, M40. dont even think that there was ever a scabbord for those, Now kaiser has one for only 344.00 but it i US Made and good quality
only 344.00 wonder how many they sell??
this has possibilities, and was surprised and the number for sale??
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WWII-US-ARM...1M83:rk:4:pf:0
Last edited by pelago; 02-28-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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