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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1381
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    What I'm trying to wrap my mind around is to why you keep losing time. Is it too far advanced or retarded? It sounded like the engine started right up for you when you installed the body? What is leading you to think that it is now out again? Timing light, or by ear?

    Instead of pulling the oil pump every time you need to move the distributor a tooth, I would make a slotted piece of copper pipe that can be inserted to the oil pump drive to turn to match your distributor drive. It will take a little playing to get it to line up perfectly, because you'll have to figure on the distributor turning slightly when engaging the cam. In my mind it is better than tearing off the oil pump every time you have an issue.

    As far as the harness, order the Douglas connectors and make your own harness.
    https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Wiring_C.htm

    The M38A1 was much better that the M151. The M151A2 wasn't bad after the rear trailing arms were modified to reduce the chance for the MUTT to roll over during a turn at speed. The picture is of how must M151s ended up.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 03-18-2019 at 09:12 AM.

  2. #1382
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    TIMING, WHEN A LIGHT PUT ON IT, CAN NOT ADJ TO EVEN GET TO TIMING MARK,,, FALLS SHORT, MY MECHANIC FRIEND SAYS THAT HE FEELS TIMING IS JUST NOW WHAT IT SHOULD BE, HE PUT HAND OVER EXH AND SAID IT SEEMS LACKING, WHEN I PUT THE LIGHT ON IT IT FALLS SHORT OF THE TIMING MARK AND SUPPOSED TO SET IT AT 5 ADVANCED JUST CAN NOT DO THAT..... YEAH IT DOES START BUT IN REALITY I AM NOT THAT GREAT A JUDGE OF WHAT IT SHOULD SOUND LIKE

    Was told that the m151 surplus were ran thru a giant band saw and cut in half, could not be sold??

  3. #1383
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Timing requires a good ear more than anything. An engine will tell you what it likes, and what it doesn't, even with the timing light is telling you that it should be happy. If it starts well cold, then starts well hot then it should be in the neighborhood of being right. Exhaust will tell you a lot as well. Advance it too far and it will knock and bang because the spark is lighting the fuel before way before 5 degrees TDC. Retard it too far, and the engine will be a dog. The spark is hitting after TDC, and not burning the fuel thoroughly enough. I wish I would have jumped on purchasing the Military service/troubleshooting kit that my father purchased some years back at a flea market. It had all the special connectors to hook directly to the distributor and a 24 volt timing light. They are still out there, but people want a fortune for them.

    The M151 was a great idea in theory, but the design had some major flaws in the beginning. Much like the Corvairs of the mid 60s, the rear axle was an independent style of suspension. It worked well for absorbing rough terrain, but the flaw came out when driver on a hard surface. The rear A arm suspension was set up much like most front A arms that are used on the front. The A arms are mounted 90 degree from the sub frame. If you turn to sharply at speed, the inside wheel can lift off the ground, then fold under when it comes back down, causing the MUTT to roll. The M151 and M151A1 were at first cut in half with a large band saw. The first picture is of one of the early ones cut behind the dash board. The drive shafts, brake and fuel lines were all cut in one pass. When folks were buying the halves and welding them back together, then Uncle Sam went to crushing them into cubes like the photo that was shown this morning.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqLbcHYN1hM

    The A2 version has the rear A arms angle changed to where the arms face the rear. This allows them to absorb the terrain, but does not allow them to fold under when not in contact with the roadway. The last three photos are of an A2 version that I did some body work on.
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  4. #1384
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    I will need to get into this timing more, there are 12 gears in oil pump and that covers 360 degrees, and when i turn the dist it falls way short of where it needs to go, am at a stop on dist so need some more turning radius and only way i see to get it is one click on gear?

    just got a note from Kaiser by email, they want to feature my M38A1 in next years catalog. wow.....
    Last edited by pelago; 03-19-2019 at 04:12 AM.

  5. #1385
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    One tooth should get you within the range on the timing adjustment.

    A spread in the catalogue would be great! You've worked hard to get where you are today, might as well show off your handy work.

  6. #1386
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    just got a note from Kaiser by email, they want to feature my M38A1 in next years catalog. [/QUOTE]

    Wow ... That is really a great idea.

  7. #1387
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    another surprise...
    obtained comprehensive coverage for the restoration at a great rate $126.00 a year https://americancollectors.com/passi...8aAhQZEALw_wcB

    and called geico and was able to add the jeep for driving by adding it to existing policy and lo and behold when added to existing policy, making it a two car policy the rate dropped and basically the liability for the jeep is ZERO...
    WILL TAKE THAT

  8. #1388
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Multi-car discounts help out. I've kept insurance on the 2A for quite some time. Now I need to break down and get a license plate for it. Nobody really cares around these parts, but it's better to be legal.

  9. #1389
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "One tooth should get you within the range on the timing adjustment."
    FORGOT WHICH WAY, LOOKING DOWN AT PUMP C CW OR CW, IF I REMEMBER IT IS CCW, ONLY WANT TO FOOL WITH THAT DAMN GASKET ONCE

  10. #1390
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    CCW. You might need to go as far as two teeth to get to the middle of the range. Hopefully one tooth will do.

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