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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1441
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I buy the cheap, clear plastic filters in bulk for most everything I run around the house and the Heeps. There is a disabled guy who sets up in a parking lot of the local feed store, and he sells them dirt cheap, so I stock up. I like the Dorman filter that you presented. It would work rather well for capturing just about anything that could cause you headaches, plus being stainless steel mesh, you could reverse flush the filter to clean it for reuse. To answer your question about being a restriction, no. It shouldn't slow down the flow much if any at all. There is different schools of thought on here about fuel pump rates psi. The new or modern replacement fuel pumps have been found to put out 5 to 7 PSI, but the Go Devil and Hurricane only require 1.5-2.5 psi to be happy. Often a fuel regulator is installed to reduce the psi down to the proper level. That is OK in the grand scheme of things, but in my warped sense of being, it is a band aid approach. With a well tuned and adjusted carburetor, the higher end of the spectrum of 5 to 7 psi is reasonable to manage. If your needle/seat and float in the carburetor are in a serviceable condition, then the extra fuel pressure isn't enough to upset the carburetor. With that being said, a perfect carburetor is becoming scarce. Most of the Carter carbs have led a rough existence, and the tolerances are loose. There are brand new aftermarket Solex carbs available, but there are horror stories about the build quality, and then the ability to properly tune the performance. The Solex are notorious for either having issues with top end performance, and poor fuel economy. You can purchase a Carter, but the price is twice to three times higher than the Solex. On our 2A, I am running an aftermarket mechanical fuel pump from Advanced auto, or whoever could get me one in a pinch at the time. Then the carb is an old crusty Carter that looks like hell, but works like a new one. To be fair, I have not checked the output pressure from the pump, but it does move fuel rather quickly when I forget that the gas gage float is out of adjustment and reads an 1/8 of a tank high.

  2. #1442
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I have a new pump from KW. I agree on the psi. 5 to 7 has always been the school of thought for float type carbs. On some racing Holley's we ran up to 10 never any more. Well pelago, a few options for the filter. What are you going to try? Let us know how it goes!

  3. #1443
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    DSC02445.jpgSER1.jpg

    THERE WILL BE NO DOUBT WHERE THIS COMES FROM!!
    Serious now, having a issue with distributor, when i put timing light on it starts out okay then something happens and it is all over the place, looking for a good mechanical drawing or a good blow up of the distributor, something not right in there...

  4. #1444
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    See if this link helps at all;

    http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...845&highlight=

    The stencils look great!

  5. #1445
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    DSC02445.jpgSER1.jpg

    THERE WILL BE NO DOUBT WHERE THIS COMES FROM!!
    Serious now, having a issue with distributor, when i put timing light on it starts out okay then something happens and it is all over the place, looking for a good mechanical drawing or a good blow up of the distributor, something not right in there...
    I would take a look at the mechanical advance mechanism. At the very least make sure the springs have some tension to hold the weights up. If there is no tension, the weights drop down and get stuck on the plate. The timing will jump all over. Like wise if the mechanism is worn out at the pins and weights.

  6. #1446
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    I would take a look at the mechanical advance mechanism. At the very least make sure the springs have some tension to hold the weights up. If there is no tension, the weights drop down and get stuck on the plate. The timing will jump all over. Like wise if the mechanism is worn out at the pins and weights.
    i also feel that the issue is mechanical, the distributor in the engine seems to have play at the rotor of at least 4 degrees, can actually move the rotor and shaft when distributor is in the engine,, shaft where it connects to the pump? pump? shaft on distributor?
    when distributor is placed in motor and tightened down one can physically move the shaft (by turning the rotor) and see it move 3/16" left and right, this is not right. I happen to have another distributor which i will put in the motor and see if it moves as the 1st distributor moves, if not i will rebuild it. upon inspection of the counter weights in the offending distributor i could see no visble wearing of the holes in counter weights and the springs seem good? This also makes me wonder if it might not be a heat issue? after rebuilding and thorough inspection and cleaning of offending distributor, i installed in engine and started it up, it ran perfectly (new plugs also) could not have asked for a better display> then after 20 minutes or so the sypmptom repeated itslef. what the heck? i do know that when i put it in i made sure the rotor was in correct position. and it just strted right up. reluctant to pull oil pump, but might have to, have a spare pump? i JUST NOW CONFIRMED THAT IT IS NOT A HEAT ISSUE. Started it cold and timing point dancing around
    Last edited by pelago; 04-07-2019 at 08:21 AM.

  7. #1447
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you have slop in the distributor, that is the problem. I agree with bmorgil's assessment about the mechanical advance, is where I would look first. If you can turn the rotor that easy, then the advance springs are way too weak.

  8. #1448
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    If you have slop in the distributor, that is the problem. I agree with bmorgil's assessment about the mechanical advance, is where I would look first. If you can turn the rotor that easy, then the advance springs are way too weak.
    with oil pump in engine it is sloppy, but when i put the distributor hooked to spare oil pump much much tighter

  9. #1449
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You may need to install your spare pump into your engine. If you have slop when it's installed, and the end of the distributor is not worn, then the pump is the problem. When the temperature comes up, then the slop gets worse. This makes sense to why the timing is jumping around.

  10. #1450
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I would be sure the weights aren't dropping down and getting stuck on the mounting plate. If the spring tension is not pulling significantly on the weights, they will intermittently catch on the plate. They drop down and get hooked under it. When they are caught under the plate, everything get s real tight. Their is little or no advance. If they rattle up on top of the plate, the timing jumps all over because there isn't enough tension. Also I would be sure the dwell isn't changing. Worn shaft bushings, cam or loose points etc would cause the dwell to change which also changes the timing.

    Just some thoughts. There isn't much to the way these old girls time. Only a few things will cause spark scatter. One last thought, I fought crossfire once on a race car that was frustrating. Look for carbon tracing on the underside of the distributor cap, on the rotor and coil. A timing light would show spark scatter. If the light is jumping all over like the occasional off the map spark off, carbon tracing becomes suspect for sure.

    On what gmwillys said above about the oil pump. An engine driven oil pump driving the distributor is a known weakness in racing engines. It can radically affect spark by sending harmonics up the shaft. This is also what can happen if the condition gmwillys is alluding to exists. The pump can and will send the spark "scattering" as it chatters if it is worn in certain ways. Especially chipped gears, shaft engagement issues or impeller rotor trouble. More thoughts to ponder I guess!

    My brainstorm anyhow!

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