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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1631
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    BEEN LOOKING AT THE FUEL LINE OFFERED BY KAISER....
    am in final stages of fuel tank. Fuel tank in and am deciding on either the 100.00 fuel line set up or just simply use hose. Thinking of hose, run the hose as the steel pipe would be ran, on the "NON EXHAUST" side of the jeep, along the frame and cross over under radiator with hose. The kit comes with some things i will not need, such as line from pump to carb, already have that. All i would need to do is lay the hose and connect it to frame with stainless seizing wire. since i have a short piece of tubing coming out of fuel pump attached to small length of hose to gas can i will not need the rubber connect from steel line to fuel pump. Much less dollars for hose?? comments?

    also got to thinking of the fuel gauge set up, the tank is pretty well covered with both paint and undercoat and concerned about ground, would be tempestuous at best. Plan on running a ground wire from one of the screws that hold gauge in to chassis ground.... comments?

    And the "Jakester" growing fast, now 10weeks old and forming his personality. Pretty active puppy and still doing the housebreak routine. Sort of successful so far, sort of.....
    Last edited by pelago; 07-04-2019 at 05:52 AM.

  2. #1632
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Jake is just markin' his new turf!

    Steel is the best way for durability and what not. However, there are a lot of marine craft out there that run nothing but hose. I had some trouble with my boat that was hard to find. I put in a 540 cube Chevy rat motor. 617 hp. Took it out after a few years of good running and suddenly it developed a full load lean misfire. I could not find it. Then one day I was changing the fuel filters and I looked inside the hose. The chemicals (most likely Ethanol) had attacked the inside of the hose and it had swollen almost shut on the siphon side of the pump. The prolong setting with fuel in the siphon side worked the hose hard. The supply side was dry and, in good shape. The hose was from a high end supplier of stainless steel braid covered rubber fuel line. I also had some trouble with my '77 Chevy. It dissolved the factory rubber after prolonged setting. I do remember long ago that there had been issues with fuel lines when Ethanol is in the fuel. I don't know if they ever completely solved it.

    If you go hose, make sure it is Ethanol compatible.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 07-04-2019 at 07:07 AM.

  3. #1633
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    Plan on running a ground wire from one of the screws that hold gauge in to chassis ground.... comments?

    And the "Jakester" growing fast, now 10weeks old and forming his personality. Pretty active puppy and still doing the housebreak routine. Sort of successful so far, sort of.....
    A. By all means run a separate ground from one of the screws on the flange of the sending unit to a good frame ground. Don't depend on a mounting screw for an electrical ground.

    B. Before you get everything buttoned up, you might want to do a gauge calibration - senders, gauges and tanks do not always match up very well. Check to see just how far down into the tank the pick-up tube runs. On the replacement tank for the '48, it took almost three gallons to get fuel to the pick-up tube. We added a bit - not enough to get into the sludge and grit on the bottom, but a little.

    By the way, you can do this with water. Put a gallon in the tank. Suck on the fuel line and make sure you are getting fuel. If you are, this is your reserve level. Install the sender, check to see that it sits at about "E". If it does, you know your "gotta buy gas" spot. If you want another gallon reserve, add a gallon. You can adjust the float arm to bring it back to "E" if you want to.

    Now, fill it up. Hopefully you get to "F" about the time you get about 17 gallons in the tank. If everything goes right. "F" on the gauge will be close to full on the tank. If not, bend the float arm to get a compromise you can live with. "E" is what matters most, but it is annoying to have "F" with only five gallons added to the tank.

    If you used water, the exhaust of the shop vac dries things out in an hour or so.

    C. Scratch Jake behind his ears and scratch his belly for us. Give him a doggy treat for the fourth.

    D. Take care of yourself too!

  4. #1634
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    If you go hose, make sure it is Ethanol compatible.

    yes yes yes

  5. #1635
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    7.jpg




    a tired puppy played hard

    on a different note, the floor area of Mr Magoo the jeep now has sprayed on bed liner, olive drab from the company. passenger and drivers side hit heavy, entire back deck two coats. everywhere a foot can go is now protected, am quite happy about it
    Last edited by pelago; 07-04-2019 at 09:07 AM.

  6. #1636
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    A ground wire would be a good idea. I ran the short wire to the sending unit, but also piggy backed a ground wire to the body. Another way to calibrate your fuel sender is to plug in the sender and a ground outside of the tank, then measure the depth of the tank, then adjust the float for where you want it to read empty. Then check to ensure it reads full when raised.
    I would buy some lengths of 3/8" brake lines and make your own fuel lines. It's your choice on what to use for fuel line. I wouldn't use ethenol in your Jeeps fuel system, because the alcohol is hard on the fuel pump and carb. We have one gas station that has 100% gas.

  7. #1637
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I wish I could find 100% gas! The only thing can get without Ethanol is Racing Fuel. 106 octane and $5 a gallon!

  8. #1638
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Here the 100% gas is $0.30 more a gallon. You can purchase additives that will reduces the effect of the alcohol in the fuel. Race gas does smell good, but at $5.00 a gallon, it will get expensive.

  9. #1639
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    after many discussions with auto parts stores and here and various costs involved the kaiser willys best solution. yes there is ethanol safe rubber lines, used in many injectors, high cost though, so another order for willys stuff

  10. #1640
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    putting in the new oil pressure sending unit. Have to comment on the wire on the 60odd year old wiring harness, have no idea who or where this wire came from but it is exceptionally good, have only two more connections to make,,, fender blackout light and temp sending unit. Every piece that i have repaired (ends mostly) has been in great shape, no crude, no powder, really neat old wire

    Now when i have to run a new section or repair a section this is what i used
    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...49?recordNum=3

    I have used this wire for years and years, i completely rewired Pelago my Alberg designed sloop and it never fails, word got around that i knew what i was doing and i re wired many boats at $65.00 an hour, ownere would groan and i would say i am very good but i am not cheap, you want cheat get some yahoo that uses lamp cord and your wire melts and corrodes to powder.. that was enough, would bid on the job by how many hours i thought...

    new issue, new oil pressure gauge. new sending unit, good hookup, good wire, sits there at 45 does not go to zero when ignition turned off????
    Last edited by pelago; 07-06-2019 at 11:54 AM.

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