anyoe ever tried to reverse flush a radiator? i never have, and since a water pump just moves water it really does not provide any pressure, but to remove this crap maybe needs pressure?? damn pepper was a bust. to sop a very small leak i managed to bothch it up
The easiest way to flush is to open the drain on the bottom of the radiator, and trickle water in the top while its running. Adjust the water flow in to match the water flow out and let it go until its coming out clean. Though the pump provides little pressure it does have a good flow. I think the pepper will come out.
Originally Posted by bmorgil
might work.. also had this suggestion use CLR in the thing and get it to temp and let sit for a while then drain, also suggested to use dishwasher soap in it?? both sound pretty cheap and sure can not screw the pooch more than is is. One gent said that is what they do at a Caterpillar facility and it works on $100,000.00 cats......................
one fellow suggested that i use a product (dont remember the name) that is aluminum chips or aluminum oxide he said it worked for him HOWEVER AFTER LIVING ON A SAILBOAT FOR TEN YEARS I FOUND OUT THE HARD WAY THAT ALUMINUM AND BRASS JUST DO NOT LIKE ON ANOTHER............ELECTROLYSIS TURNED PART OF MY MAST TO REAL CRAP WHEN SOMEONE USED BRASS SCREWS ON A ALUMINUM MAST. ACTUALLY HAD TO CUT OUT THE PARTS THAT WERE REALLY BAD AND HAVE THE MAST REPAIRED. COST A BUNCH TOO
Last edited by pelago; 10-01-2019 at 07:41 AM.
a question, octane rating, today we can get 87,89,93. how do these compare to "ethyl and regular" from 1952, try to google it and i get everything under the sun but what i am looking for, all i remember was sunoco 260 (on the way to us 30 dragstrip in 1960), and if i am not mistaken the actual octane of sunoco 260 was actually about 106 curious, not talkiing about the lead or lack of lead but just plain octane
Last edited by pelago; 10-01-2019 at 07:38 AM.
This is a good flush solution. I wouldn't put something in that can "suds" up, harden or cake. https://gobdp.com/blog/what-is-the-b...sh-a-radiator/
From some old info I have on fuel, after World War II, gasoline octanes in the United States were around 79 for regular and 85 for premium. By 1954 it looks like premium gasoline's were rated as high as 94 octane and regular at 86. I ran a lot of Sunoco 260 also. Excellent fuel and as you stated, it was rated at 106 octane.
The little L134 and F134 was designed to run on 63 octane! The low 6.4 to 1 compression ratio and low timing advance, allowed some pretty poor fuel to run in the motor. I suppose this was because during war, you used any fuel you could find. The F head ratio was raised to 7.4 with an option to go back to the 6.4 ratio. I do know that when I was selling car parts in South America, the mechanics would tell me the fuel was low in octane and high in sulfur. I would guess that Willys wanted to be sure the motor would run wherever it went.
I have read a few forum posts where the tuner turns the timing up. I also turn the timing up a bit. The non ethanol fuel I have found is 90 octane. I run about 8 degrees before. I am sure it will take a LOT more!
Last edited by bmorgil; 10-01-2019 at 07:59 AM.
Just to add a tidbit:
My aviation buddy talks about aviation fuel after WWII. The big radial engines (think B-29 and Super Constellation) ran a high supercharge and the fuel (113/130+ octane) was considered to be an aromatic hydrocarbon with a molecular structure closer to perfume than what we would consider gasoline.
The Esslingen Ordinance rebuild plate kind of surprised a lot of us as just how bad Jeep gas could be. You could pull up to the pump and order "One Octane over Kerosene ..."
Last edited by LarrBeard; 10-01-2019 at 10:28 AM. Reason: Corrected spelling
The military still runs a pretty low standard octane fuel in their combat vehicles. In our CAT engines, (3126/C-7 series) we run JP-8. The downside is that the closer to kerosene fuel doesn't have the lubricity characteristics that a #2 diesel grade would have. In turn we use an oil exchanger that pipes in metered used crank case oil into the fuel rail. New oil is then introduced into the crankcase to replace the amount that is burned off. Sounds like a good trade off, but we do not see much more than 4,000 hours out of a set of injectors. The dyno pulls are comparable with an engine running #2, except the torque is better with diesel. The next generation of vehicles is leaving the line with #2 diesel in the tanks.
Starting in the '50s, most all of the deuce and a half's were running multifuel engines. They could burn just about anything liquid that would combust. The turbine engine in the M-1 Abrams main battle tank will burn just about anything as well, but at a half mile per gallon, it better.
don't seem to have the get up and go i thought i would have??
http://m38a1.com/Resources/tabulated_data.htm
There's not much there that's for sure! With the gearing they came with however, they can climb a wall with that little engine.
SO SO NOT SURE NOW??? GOT SPEEDOMETER CABLE AND CAN NOT GET HIGHER THAN 40MPH IN 3RD....
WENT TO THE MANUAL.
check compression, did so and not happy, not sure what when where or how. cycl 1, and 2 seem okay above 100. (manual says 125 factory and above 100 is acceptable with min of 100). plug one and two looked good, good fire
but 3 and 4 carbon and sorta wet???? compression both st hi 90 considerable difference between 1&2 tp 3&4
the manual says if adjoining cyl low comp could be leak between the two?? now occasional, for no reason i get a backfire while idle??. Book says re torque and test again.. doing that now, couple of the head bolts seem a bit loose (well not loose but they had some to go to get to 65lbs)
putting it all back together and then re test after i warm it up
Last edited by pelago; 10-03-2019 at 01:20 PM.
Posting Permissions
