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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1891
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    looking good! No broken rods. Can't wait to hear how the bearings and throws look.
    there are two little rubber plugs right next to the rear main by flywheel plate they are covered by the gasket, where in heck do yo get those??

  2. #1892
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    They come in the gasket set. They run down between the main cap and the block. They seal the block to the main cap and the pan to the block and main cap. I found them to be tricky little Bast@#!%s to get in. I did figure out a successful way.

  3. #1893
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Behind the cam gear there is a small spacer ring between the bearing and the gear. Don't loose that. It kind of sticks in there. Before you take out the crank, check the end play. It will be helpful on reassembly.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-06-2019 at 05:27 PM.

  4. #1894
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The cylinder ridge doesn't look too bad. Be sure to check around the distributor for cracks in the block casting.
    We will be looking forward to seeing your progress.

  5. #1895
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    check around the distributor for cracks in the block casting.
    We will be looking forward to seeing your progress.

    Behind the cam gear there is a small spacer ring between the bearing and the gear. Don't loose that. It kind of sticks in there. Before you take out the crank, check the end play. It will be helpful on reassembly.

    They come in the gasket set

    There are no ridges in cyl walls at all. walls kinda shiny, but my plan is to take the block to a machine shop that did my kubota 4 cyl

    (that motor unique, when i sold the boat,sad day, the buyer wanted to check compression, i said "I CAN DO THAT I HAVE A COMPRESSION TEST METER" . Then said "if compression okay its a deal then, right" he said "yes" when i rebuilt that motor i did a dry and wet compression test and had written the results down in the KUBOTA maint manual and the date it was done. Showed him the page and said "thats a good comparison to what i will do now" Plus by log book i had over 5000 hours on motor since i had rebuilt it. DAMN IF COMPRESSION WAS ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THE ONE I HAD DONE YEARS AGO. IT WAS RIGHT ON THE MONEY AND MET ALL STANDARDS. BUYER SAID 'WOW' We shook hands and he gave me a paper bag with $35,000.00 in it, done deal" When i got in my truck i cried)

    Today will pull all four pistons and take a engraver and mark each one by number on rod and bearing cap, when i pulled the cam once before on the engine in the jeep now to redo with new exh valves i remember that spacer

    Also plan on having the hardened seats installed and am putting in new stainless valves, new tappet and new guides, probably will have new intake valves also, but am letting the machine shop guys tell me if i need new intake valves

    WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE OF THE RUBBER PUGS? HAVE TO SOMETIMES ASK THE ORIGINAL ENGINEERS ON STUFF LIKE THIS, AND WHY IN THE HELL HAVE DIFFERENT WHEEL LUGS ON LEFT SIDE OF VEHICLE FROM RIGHT SIDE?? CAN NOT FIGURE OUT THAT ONE, THINK OF PULLING ALL FOUR TIRES AND PUTTING ALL LUG NUTS IN A CAN AND THEN HAVING TO FIGURE OUT WHICH ONE IS A LEFTY AND WHICH ONES A RIGHTY THEN ADD THAT THIS WAS IN BASTOGNE IN DEC 44
    Last edited by pelago; 10-07-2019 at 07:17 AM.

  6. #1896
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    DAMN IF I DID NOT FORGET THE SPRING TOOL??? THIS THE ONE THAT I NEED, DO NOT HAVE ONE
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-For...oAAOSwtpFcqlBi

  7. #1897
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I don't think you will need that tool. There are some much eaiser to use tools for the intake springs. https://www.harborfreight.com/univer...xoCruoQAvD_BwE

    The exhaust springs just take two screw drivers. I would take the head into the shop and let them tear it down and reassemble it. They will need to check the spring height any way. May as well have them assemble it.

    Excellent idea on the stainless valves and the hardened seats. It wouldn't surprise me if the shop tells you they are already hardened.

    Those "plugs" are unique for sure. If you are careful on reassembly and check the installed height, they work, somehow.They have a tough job to do back there. They seal the cap to the block and the cap and block t the pan.

    I changed all the lugs left and right to right hand. Don't care if it isn't original on that one. I have never been able to totally get the logic on that. Righty tighty lefty loosey. Chrysler did this for a long time. I have seen many stripped studs because of the confusion. I can't imagine figuring it out while I am being shot at.

  8. #1898
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    " I changed all the lugs left and right to right hand." YES YES YES, AND AM DOING THAT, WHAT A PAIN IN THE *** TIGHTEN LEFT.........

  9. #1899
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The tool shown was designed for flat head Ford V-8 valve guides, and not valve springs.

    What you need is this;

    http://www.2040-parts.com/bluepoint-...thead-i726136/

    Two screw drivers will work up until you lose a keeper. The spring compressor lets you ease tension off of the keeper, then you can pick the keepers out of position. This will make your life less interesting. You can use a standard valve spring compressor for the intake valves.

  10. #1900
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    After looking at that, i felt that it was not the one that i want and actually found the one you have on ebay and ordered it

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