If you find the end yoke is worn at the T-Case, either end, it is the same repair sleeve as the pinions. National 99155. They are $19 at Rock Auto.
If you find the end yoke is worn at the T-Case, either end, it is the same repair sleeve as the pinions. National 99155. They are $19 at Rock Auto.
"T-Case," not sure i unerstand, going out to pull the other yoke of the other transfer case and look at it, and going to try and see if i cant take a photo of the gear oil that got scattered, that would make like a whole lot of things leaking
do the sleeves need to be pressed on?
Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 12:18 PM.
T-case, I was shortening transfer case. I was just saying it's the same sleeve on all the yokes.
They can be pressed on or, tapped on. I prefer a smaller press for the control. I have done it both ways. There are some good video of installation online.
Last edited by bmorgil; 11-17-2019 at 12:42 PM.
90 WT GEAR OIL ALL OVER BOTTOM
EDITED.jpg
Now i had cleaned this pretty good with gunk and there was hardly any there and drove around block hoping to just warm it up some, but the gear oil is all over the bottom and just kinda splattered all over
not sure how this works, what is the cap looking thing?
rock auto.jpg
here is the yoke that was just remove from the extra transmission and xfer case, did clean it up some, this is the one that has the e brake on it and am hoping to transfer the brake to the jeep later on I can feel grooves in it, not bad, but then again have only seen a photo of a bad one and never held one so i really can not say this is good or bad no experience with it next to it is a new one from kaiser for 49.00 so differende would be 30.00 rock auto to kaiser?
yoke.jpg kaiser new yoke.jpg
Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 01:39 PM.
The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html
From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.
i have a polishing wheel on my stand and have fine polishing compound,, can make it shine, but with the sleeve is that really necessary? but then again can brighten up the sleeve also, but think that this is the culprit for losing gear oil, and that gear oil after being cast far and wide makes for confusing drips, there is a cross member there and it has a good dose of gear oil on the inside and drips down, that also says "CHANGE YOKE". Also have a rather inconsequential leak from rear main, couple of drops and that really does not get me excited, when putting this together i opted out of complete 134f rebuild due to passing compression test. did total exh valve job thought that was prudent in as much as one valve stuck and rusty. even learned how to lap the valves with hand tool.. This motor sure runs good nowOriginally Posted by bmorgil
CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT
Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 08:08 PM.
You just know LarryBeard is going to have something to say about sinking boats!
The sleeve has the best seal finish possible on it. If you use one you just need to be sure the yoke doesn't have any big protrusions, and you fill any groves or holes. The sleeve is so thin it will take on the shape of the old yoke if you don't clean it up. On the other hand if it shines up, its good to go. No sleeve required.
Usually when you loose the yoke seal it flings the lube 360 degrees. You see it straight up on the floor board. When its coming out of one of parts that aren't rotating it drips down and into the airflow. You then find it everywhere starting behind the leak. If it is all over the floor right above the yoke, my money is on the leak is there. Typically the 18 transfer case can drip from a few spots. Big lube loss however almost always points to a seal.
One thing to keep in mind. The 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has a lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transmission will steal a lot of lube from the transfer case if it (the transmission) is leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.
Last edited by bmorgil; 11-18-2019 at 09:18 AM.
well, it is slinging oil thats for sure
took a closeup of the spare yoke that i have and it is somewhat pitted??, and i can feel a groove, slight but still a groove... stupid question and probably over kill, what would a seal on a new yoke be, a sacrificial surface? maybe?
pitted.jpg
Great picture. I would put a wear sleeve on that yoke no question. Those pits will cut the new seal, in addition to creating a leak path of their own.
On a new yoke the surface should be just right. The sleeve would be overkill. The sleeve does have the better surface finish. I don't think it is sufficiently better to warrant putting a sleeve on a new yoke however.
Seal savers or Speedy sleeves, (or at least that's what we called them) have saved many of crank shafts on heavy equipment over the years. They are worth every penny. A lot better then the snake oils that are supposed to soften seals to slow down leaks.
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