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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

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  1. #1
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    i have no reference material for the xfer case or transmission at all, i do have a complete engine manual and the operations manual (which is just that)

  2. #2
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    feeler gauge between case and housing. .004 went in .005 had to force it in and it really did not go, now i had to put bolts in cap to get it to stay, remember am upside down on this. snugged bolts, not 30lbs but enough to have free (gap) so to speak, .004 was it .004 + .010 = .014 so that is the shim needed, at this stage can not get to bearing would have to remove entire xfer case and am reluctant to do this. hopefully plan on using combined shims to .015 and install with gasket compound between each shim (ever so lkightly but full coat)

  3. #3
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    You shouldn't need to get to the bearing. Assemble it with no sealant on the shims then check the end play like they show in the Novack Guide. When you are confident there is more than .002" and less than .008" of end play, take it apart and put on a very thin coat of sealant. If you can get a spray can of Permatex High Tack it is a good way to insure a good even thin coat. You just shake up the spray can real good then lightly spray one side of the shims, the back of the cap and the case. What ever you use it needs to be very thin and light.

    Another good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OocQ6EtB00g

    Go slow on the bolts a little at a time in a cross pattern. As you snug it up check the end play as you go. If it drops below .002" stop tightening and add more shims. Every time end play drops below .002" remember to bump the front output yoke with a good rap an a block of wood. This pushes the bearing back out so you can get another reading. .075" is a common start pack of shims. .014" seems like not enough. You never know however!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 11-29-2019 at 04:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    since it is on the jeep and all connected in order to get end play down where it has to be i will disconnect the front drive tmrw and then can work it back ad forth. liked the videos and have kept them on file, get spray tmrw and all my pieces and parts show up

  5. #5
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Let me know how it goes , I'll be standing by.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    TM9-8015-2: Power Train Body and Frame manual

    The military manual (TM-8015-2) is posted on this site here.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ty-Truck-M38A1

  7. #7
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    uh oh

    the manual and the video say the visible spring inside the seal goes towards the oil?? can not see spring in the seal

  8. #8
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The lip goes towards the oil. The oil pushes against the lip pushing it down making a better seal. If it was lip out it would be too easy for the oil to leak out.

  9. #9
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    The lip goes towards the oil.

    got it
    end play, in my archaic way of measuring and using a new steel 6" steel ruler and a scribe i measured 35th end play and did it many times over and went around multiple times and checked and have a 30th shim so will use only the one shim
    ???

  10. #10
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I think you are saying that you will have .005" of end play. That's pretty good.

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