Page 25 of 252 FirstFirst ... 1523242526273575125 ... LastLast
Results 241 to 250 of 2512

Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #241
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,796
    You can't beat forward progress. Now for the fun part. The master cylinder isn't too bad, and the new brake lines will be time consuming, but not difficult.

  2. #242
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    WELL ISSUE NUMBER (I FORGET)....
    Being a chicken, i sent my fuel pump into Kaiser for their guys to do the magic. i felt i would gorp it up. Got a call from Mike, seems my fuel pump is civilian version? damn looks just like the picture in manual?? what the heck i will never tell anyone that the new fuel pump is civilian version of military pump, and the new one is 15.00 cheaper than rebuild. what ya gonna do, just go with the flow

  3. #243
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,975
    There is a good chance that the new fuel pump will deliver a higher pressure than the older pump. Go ahead and put a regulator between the pump and carburetor so you can set fuel pressure where you want it. (Go ahead - ask me how I learned that...)

    Yep, that's right...

  4. #244
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    a regulator, pressure i take it, have no idea where or how to get one or even what they look like, new to me

  5. #245
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,796
    I don't believe that you would be happy with the appearance of a pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carburetor. Even if you paint the usually chrome regulator, it will still stick out like a sore thumb on even a motor pool quality restoration. I've run constant flow/pressure electric fuel pumps for years on the derby cars that I built. Ran a simple Holley 500 two barrel carb on them all. As long as the needle and seat are in good shape, and the float is set right, there are no problems. My wagon has a sbc with the original Quadra-junk carb on it, and a stock fuel pump. When the engine was good and warm, gas would start to poor out of the throttle shaft bushings. Come to find out that the accelerator pump was shot, and pulling air, and the needle and seats were shot, causing the fuel to fill up and come out the vent into the throat of the carb. With the excess gas being dumped into the throat, the throttle blades were pretty much closed, thus allowing the excess fuel to run out of the bushings.
    https://www.autozone.com/fuel-system...or-and-control

  6. #246
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,975
    My F-134 used a Carter YF, which was not too tolerant of fuel pressures above 5 PSI. The M38 uses a bit different carburetor, but excess pressure may be an issue even with that one.

    We tried adding spacers to reduce fuel pump stroke, but that made the fuel pump lever clack on the cam lobe - not something we wanted since clacks induce fatigue cracks and failures.

    I looked a bit amd I found what looks like my unit, a "Mr. Gasket 9710". Google it to see what it looks like.

    The attached picture shows it hanging in the lash-up while we were testing things.

    You can paint it to match the engine color, hide it down behind the oil filter. It hardly shows now with everything buttoned up. Hopefully you won't need one.

    No joke GI - runs good, lasts a long time.

    $0.02
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #247
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,975
    Google "Mr. Gasket 9710". That's the beast.

  8. #248
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    what should the pressure be regulated to ?? psi??. i know on my kubot diesel i had a mechanical pump and said nuts to that priming a diesel with a mechanical pump a PIA. bought a electreic and made bleeding and priming so so so easy. miss that liettle 30hp bugger...
    today got all the brake lines in and all the flex hoses in with all the clips holding them together,,, master cyl next then can wrap it up. fuel pump then fire the critter up

  9. #249
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,796
    Fuel pressure should be between 4 to 5 psi. The benefit to using an electric fuel pump would be that it can be switched individually from the ignition. When you park the Jeep for any length of time, you can switch off the pump, and run the remaing fuel out of the carb. The second benefit would be that the pump could act as a security feature. You can put the switch in a location that is hidden, so that no one would be able to start the Jeep, and take off with it. The down side, you have another switch that you will have to hide to keep the original appearance. The second would be splitting the voltage to have only 12 volts for the pump.

  10. #250
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,975
    The 54-60 Shop Manual shows 2 1/2 to 3 3/4 fuel pressure for the single barrel Carter YF (measured @ 1800 rpm). The M38 may be different.

    On the '48 I run it at about 3-pounds and it's never had a problem with too little or too much.

    Splitting the M38 24-volt system to get 12-volts for a pump isn't a problem.

    But - do whatever you dern well feel like!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •