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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #361
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    and the work continues, was going to order a complete tube kit for fuel, but since i got to learn how to bend the tubing anyway discarded that idea. the simple start up fuel and dist vacume to start with. then back to body, will order the complete system for the master cyl though and of course the dist hook up as described before

  2. #362
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    am finding a large amount of cracked wire? wonder if it is worth fixing,,, cracked wire exposed to bare wire not good, any source for 16 gauge 14 gauge by the spool wiring this jeep although tedious (and requires patience) is not all that difficult as long as you have a wiring diagram and connectors, in a 2 foot run found many many deep cracks to exposed wire? would not want to spend hours on something that is doomed to failure....I rewired a 35 foot sailboat, and that included all the NMEA wiring and dc electrical took a while, and i used marine grade wire, not cheap but today the wire is as good as the day i put it in... while contemplating the entire harness, i took a break and got out all the lights, tail light both left and right work fine, front dim outs in the radiator frame work fine, horn works fine, hooked up the ignition switch to the harness and turned ignition on and got 24vdc at the point where it plugs into distributor. checked leads for oil pressure and temp, all good Hmmmmm
    Last edited by pelago; 02-18-2018 at 01:41 PM.

  3. #363
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    A. You know the answer about fixing it - it's just going to keep on cracking.

    B. Do you want to try to keep wire like the original? Is it copper, rubber and braid - or just an insulated wire?

    C. How many small conductors in the wire - 7, 9 lots more?

    D. Does anyone reading the mail here have a MIL-SPEC for the wire (e.g. MIL-W-22759/11 - M22759/11) or some number that looks like that? I know MIL-W-22759 or M22759 isn't vehicle wire. Even chintzy wire is expensive these days. I had to buy two spools of #24 for an electronics project just this last month and a 100-foot roll cost $49.00.

    If you can find a MIL-SPEC reference, you can often find odd lengths of wire for a more reasonable price. It may be an odd color (red with brown tracer) and it still won't be cheap - but more reasonable.

  4. #364
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Maybe?

    http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/prwimse.html

    And, more than you would ever want to know about this wire...

    http://everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-S...-13486D_22611/

    It's dern good wire, not sumthin' Bubba would use to hang up his overhauls.
    Last edited by LarrBeard; 02-18-2018 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Added MIL-DTL-13486D link

  5. #365
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The harness has been in use for upward of 60 years. The rubber coatings have dried out to the point that they are cracking apart every time it is handled. I second Mr. Beard's statement. Electrical problems from old harnesses isn't a case of if problems occur, but how often, and how bad. Much like your sail boat, time spent now will give you years of trouble free operation in return.

  6. #366
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    UPDATE! Upon further investigation, i disassembled the section of the harness at the joint up to the left rear tail light. Multiple coatings of ??? lots of layers, removed all the layers and bent the wire (pretty sharp bend) to closely look at it, and found that surprisingly when i actually got to the cable itself it appeared to be better than i initially thought. Not sure what this coating is but it seems to be some kind of wrap, that is completely brittle, crumbles, and covers the whole cable. had some breaks in the wire in three spots (repaired them, and found that the actual bare wire appears to initially have been tinned) Was surprised at that, did not know that tinned wire was used in the 40's-50's. but repair went well and i used shrink tubing over the repair. Modified plan, eliminate all the (wrap or whatever it is) from the rest of the harness and do another inspection. Maybe i will get lucky and find that i can repair the harness without having to completely rebuild. Comment about cracked wire is certainly viable and will influence the decision. Now with the wire layed out on plywood, I can get couple of spools of wire and 'BUILD MY OWN HARNESS' ends are available and it is only time and wait til you year this.. THE US MARINE CORPS sent me to all kinds of electronic schools and i retired as a senior electronic tech, held many MOS's in the Corps and your tax dollars paid for it all, so i feel i am completely capable of doing this... and further more this board is a wealth of information the wire info is great!!! thanks to all, and i hope that you guys that are reading this are making a list of resources off all these posts

    and although what i am doing now will pay off in the end, damnit i wanna hear this sucker start........ got fatigued with repetitive stuff (exposing what seems like a million feet of wire a inch at a time, spent some time on oil pressure sending unit. the steel tubing was filled with dried oil (surprise) but that is cleaned and the oil pressure unit checked out. connected a ohm meter and got meter movement with the air compressor putting air into the tube. does that means it works okay, not sure all i can say is air pressure made the ohm meter analog (old school simpson 360, best meter made) move. and since this thing is nothing more than a variable resistor that moves a meter called oil pressure who knows (shadow??)


    oil pressure sending unit.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 02-19-2018 at 01:54 PM.

  7. #367
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That there is tax money well spent. I commend you for taking the time to do your own repairs. You will truly have something to be proud of when you are finished.

    The M38A1 that I worked on was an Army issued Jeep. It was not undercoated at all, except for three thick layers of olive. If I'm correct, the Marines specked out that the Jeep was to be undercoated from the factory, then often times undercoated again at the motor pool before being handed off to the unit. Between the undercoating and the addition to the sling clevis rear cross member and front bumper, that was to be the only noticeable difference between the two branch vehicles.

  8. #368
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    did not know that, even though i drove the damn things.. never drove one with a 50cal though several with m60's. mine has many coats of old style under coating, and that probably is on the wire also. Yeah am old school, i try to fix things, just have heartburn when it is not "fixable" I know with the harness lots and lots of ends to be replaced and at 2.50 a pop, going to see if i can find in packs of at least ten, need all three female male and the light type. the oil pressure guage and the temp guage have the old type of light type connector, might have to steal one, or two

  9. #369
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Your oil pressure sending unit will most likely work just fine, after getting all the crud out of it. I believe my tach and dwell meter is a Simpson. Bought it at a consignment auction for next to nothing, with the original case. If I remember correctly, it has specs for every engine brand made through the late fifties. I'll have to get it out of the tool box and look at it to check my memory. When I started working on heavy equipment, (farm and industrial) we would rebuild a starter, generator, water pumps, etc. all in house. It was a Ford tractor dealer, and we kept everything in stock. Parts and labor for the average starter was around $45. I learned a lot of dealing with the farmers, because their cost margins were so tight. They didn't bring equipment in for run of the mill issues, mostly heavy repair. If it wasn't for new equipment and construction company work, we wouldn't be much more than a starter rebuild shop.

  10. #370
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    M13486 wire #16 AWG is 19 conductors of #32 tin coated, soft drawn and annealed copper. Very flexible and, even if the jacket and insulation crack - resistant to corrosion. #14 AWG is 19 conductors of #30 or #31.

    The Simpson 360 is, indeed, the best single piece of electronic test equipment made. Once upon a time (or, Hey , this ain't no ...) I discovered that if you set a Simpson 360 to AC Volts (2.5-volt range, no leads) and sit it about a foot from the short antenna of a PRC-25 or PRC-77, you can make a quick and dirty GOOD/DEAD determination of a transmitter. I started with one in vocational electronics in high school and I still use one almost weekly in the shop.

    The original oil sender on the '48 was the bi-metal thermostat type. Oil pressure warped a diaphragm and held the points closed longer - pushing the bi-metal in the oil gauge higher as the bi-metal in the gauge heated more. Modern gauges do have a variable resistor that closely mimics the old gauge, but sometimes you need to warp it a bit with a series or shunt resistor.

    I agree - if air pressure wiggles it - you've got as live one there. It's easier to calibrate with air than oil - you can calibrate with a tire and a cheater hose! Think about it for a minute and you'll figure out how to do that. Bicycle tires work well for 60 PSI gauges - just don't let the kids catch you...

    But, a cheap little Fluke 77 with the beeper is kind of handy for ringing out wire A from Wire B in a harness.
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    Last edited by LarrBeard; 02-19-2018 at 05:47 PM.

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