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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #31
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    i know the back stud on the oil pan cover was stripped and was constantly loose and it had to lose oil (all over transmission and bell housing) almost afraid to pull inspection plate. but the whole kit is 200 bucks and it all might not be bad, might just need a new clutch and sure as hell dont want to take it all apart later

  2. #32
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    was the tub and all of its pieces and parts all spot welded?? i have to replace the rear deck and the complete tool box and when i remove the damaged parts it might help to know how they were together
    Last edited by pelago; 02-18-2017 at 09:58 PM.

  3. #33
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Was advised to drill out spotwelds and pieces and parts come right off. What might be the best way to "unearth" the spot welds, sand them down to can be seen?? Sounds logical to drill them out, generally speaking how big around are the spot welds???

  4. #34
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Here is a pile of pieces we cut out of the bed of the '48 truck. There is a special spot-weld cutter you chuck up in a drill.

    Roughly a three-sixteenths to a quarter-inch
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    WOW did not know such a tool existed, frame gets sandblasted next week, then of all things i have to call my dept of motor vehicles and have them come out to look for a serial number on frame, which of course they wont find. I do have the Wilys serial number plate on the body, but this guy thinks the serial number is also on the frame. told him there would not be, but he insists on looking and if i want to create a title have to play his game. he actually wants me to leave it bare metal until he sees is. got to play by their rules if i want to get a title. But i told him it will be in my garage and i wont wait for it to rust. will have heat on in garage for 24 hours then i will prime it, not going to all that trouble to do a frame up restoration for head games

  6. #36
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    am in the process of removing the tool box, the different panels and pieces and parts of the tub are much more complicated than they appear. I am about an hour away from being able to remove the tub (the one i want to restore) and i think that having the tub on its side will make the tool compartment removal much easier. although i do not have a spot weld cutter i do have some very good drill bits and when i expose a spot weld by some cleaning/grinding the drill bits go through it like a hot knife thru butter.. Tool box is also laid on top of part of the back deck front lip, so tool box out then back (deck) lid, and as was told to me before that the holes from the spot weld are good places to ??tig?? (right word?) the thing back together again. also will post some photos of the frame sandblasted and painted on stands soon. body needs passenger floor repair, tool box, back deck and back of tub. maybe the passenger side outside panel??
    not insurmountable goals?? had to get a set of coveralls just because the thing was tearing up my arms, cutting the hell out of them. oh well, no pain no gain. no blood no gain.

  7. #37
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    have no idea how many spot welds that there are, but probably will need to drill 200?? oh well no one said it would be easy. but having the tub out and on its side will really help. I THINK I GOT A SOURCE TO WELD IT BACK TOGETHER, that was a concern, a body shop whew damn would be super high dollar expensive, but a boy that used to mow my yard (now 45 yrs old) welds and he said hell yeah he can do it HOOOOOORAYDINGDONG YEAH!!!spot welds.jpg





    From photo can see how it is all layered, oh well...

  8. #38
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Body off the frame!!! Now i can get to all the spotwelds much much easierits off 1.jpgits off 2.jpg

  9. #39
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    salvaged nuts and bolts.jpgI touched a little about this earlier, here is actual results. 24 hours of tumbling in the same thing i use to clean brass for reloading, and am not sure but probably saved some money. thes nuts bolts washers etc are probably 50 60 yrs old, they looked like hell, rust dirt could not even see threads on some. but look at them now. years agowhen these things were b uilt the steel was different than now

  10. #40
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Here is another hint from a year into the "new" truck.

    Make sure every fastener you put on that vehicle has a coat of oil on it! It doesn't have to be greasy - just a film of oil.

    A year into the '48's second life, just about every new fastener has a coat of rust on it. New hardware has environmentally friendly plating; that means it rusts. I'm going over the truck with an oily rag and wiping everything down.

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