well, the darn thing is out

[gmwillys]

Looks like you have everything covered. Take a moment and check the points to ensure that the gap is correct, and the contacts are clean. Most often the head aches of an initial start are caused by spark issues. Information contained within old jeep carbs website is second to none. He is an authority on these carbs, and offers fuel system rebuilds, at a reasonable price.

[pelago]

thanks, also did something, I was suspect of the PCV and took it apart. after seeing the diagram on the web page for carbs, found that the valve was complete, but completely inoperable due to dried oil and whatever. soaked it in some carb cleaner and cleaned the inside with a .45cal bore brush, and then polished the actual moving valve, re assembled and re installed a fully functional PCV. All of the modern ones are throw away plastic, but since this is all metal it should function for another 50 years or so (since i have two complete engines i took the other one off and cleaned this one also)

[gmwillys]

I agree. As long as the spring is intact, you should have no problems. It is probably the most overlooked item on an engine rebuild/resurrection. I'm as guilty as the next, because I need to pull the one off the 2A, and inspect. I don't think twice about pulling the side cover, and adjusting the valves, but don't bother pulling the PCV. I'm sure that it is clogged up with oil, because at one time in its life, it had a cracked piston.

[pelago]

BTW, thanks for reminding me about points and ignition, i pulled the cap and found a cracked cap, and then the plate that the hardware is on did not look right. I salvaged both items from the spare engine and cleaned and set points to 0.020, and coil checks out good with ohmmeter. already had cleaned and checked spark plugs. Think the old girl is ready to rock and roll as soon as i get a fuel pump (COME ON MIKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) PLUS i have just plain ran out of busy work. want to get this running and put some wheels on it and roll it out to driveway put a good tarp on it and start on the body.

[LarrBeard]

and coil checks out good

Can you hook a wire to the top of the coil and cycle the points to get a spark?!

[pelago]

have never done that?? but coil ohmed out good?

HEY IT WORKED!! WENT OUT AND PUT 24VDC ON THE COIL HOT SIDE AND ENGAGED STARTER AND GOT SPARK!!!! HOT DAMN

[gmwillys]

Good deal. You'll be running in no time after you get the fuel pump.

[LarrBeard]

A. How is the hand doing?

B. When we were chasing the mystery problems with the '48, we went through several coils trying out theories as to why it was refusing to run. Two (?) of them threw a yellow, lazy spark - not a blue hot spark.

I was curious. They ohm-metered out OK (Simpson 260 of course). But, I went a bit further and checked them out on the bench and looked at the secondary voltage with an oscilloscope. As compared to a good coil, the secondary waveform on the ones with the yellow lazy spark didn't "ring" anywhere as well as the good ones.

I didn't go any deeper, but I suspect that either these coils had some internal flashover (high voltage breakdown) or some shorted turns that were loading things down.

If you have a good hot spark through the points and out the top of the coil - you have eliminated several things that might get in your way on Start Day.

Now, if you just can't wait for Mike to get you a fuel pump, you could always hang a can of fuel like an IV bag and let it feed into the carb by gravity like the Model T . It isn't like you have to feed an injector.

Just don't spill the gas and burn down the garage.......

[gmwillys]

An oscilloscope is the best tool to use, but most shops have no idea what one is. We had an issue with an output speed sensor on a power pack. The tech, who is well seasoned on Volvos cars, played with it for a week, (our tax payer dollars at work). He was getting a signal from the sensor, and the ohms were rising and dropping as it should as the out put shaft was turned slowly. The truck was ground hopped from one vehicle to another, and the problem did stay with the power pack from one vehicle to the other. The ground hop was reversed and the speedometer started working off the other truck's pack. I came involved after that point, and suggested that we find a scope to check out the wave pattern off of the out put speed sensor. After blowing off years of dust off the scope, we plugged it in. The wave pattern was square, but the top left corner had fuzz to it. Speed sensor had trash stuck to it, and the wave pattern showed it. Pulled the pack, cleaned off the sensor, ground hopped on the skid, all was right with the world again.

An IV source of fuel would work, as long as you fab up a cover for the fuel pump mount. Don't want to have oil slobbering all over the floor.

[pelago]

you could always hang a can of fuel like an IV bag think i will have my son stand there with a gallon of gas and feed the carb........
just so happens i have two scopes, a 10mhz and a 500 mhz, both are dual trace (got my training at Gov Exp courtesy Marine Corps)