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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #411
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    headlight assembly.jpg


    looking for the outside ring or bezel in the diagram, not having much luck

  2. #412
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Check out 1/4 ton and military parts.Com. They keep a lot of M38A1 N.O.S. parts on hand, at reasonable prices. I have bought a lot of odd ball parts from them, and have no complaints. You might want to call and see if they have any good used units.

    https://quartertonparts.com/
    Last edited by gmwillys; 03-05-2018 at 11:41 AM.

  3. #413
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    ALSO........
    Am not happy with the linkage between brake pedal and master cylinder, seems that the throw is very long before it engages the inside cylinder to strt the brake fluid, all lines are bled.
    and am not happy with the clutch seems the cable is so long that the throw out bearing has to have clutch pedal all the way in. got to research this some more

  4. #414
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Here is some useful information about what folks have run into on their clutch adjustment. The common solution is to shorten the threaded end to allow for proper adjustment.

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/c...opic39519.html

    The brake pedal adjustment is typically right on. I don't recall ever having to adjust the push rod when changing a master cylinder. Maybe the rod was shortened by a previous owner for who knows why. I'll look up a measurement after while and post it, for what it should be. Then we can go from there.

    Here is a link with video on the brake master cylinder adjustment. 1" of free pedal is the normal adjustment amount.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/master-...-5-6-m38-m38a1
    Last edited by gmwillys; 03-07-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  5. #415
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    HUZZAAHHHHH. (old school from the Hornblower series) IT STARTED
    Did it run like a top, NO, but it will
    Did I hear any funny noises NO, thats a good thing
    did it smoke, hell yeah it did, all that marvel mystery oil in the cylinders had to get consumed.. but that stopped
    I have am sure some carburetor issues, might have to get a case of Corona and a carb kit from Kaiser and take it down the street, just happen to have a young friend that i would consider a master mechanic, he used to mow my hard 30 years ago. seems to flood pretty easy, worse than biblical (checked float and it is all there and looks like it works)
    Also have am sure some timing issues, but page 170 from the manual starts that path, dont have the adapter for a timing light, hell dont even have a timing light.
    Had one serious oil leak and i searched and searched for it and thought i was oil pan, but no it wasnt that. then i groaned and said crap front seal, but no oil from around the pulley. then after banging my head and banging my left hand (yeah it started bleeding again) So here i was pissed and bleeding and i looked up, coming out of the top of the oil filter.... my nice newly painted oil filter now has a grimy rusty top on it, but dond leak 1130 or so and am going to bed oh yeah, need someone to educate me on the vacuum line to the distributor, ??the vacuum line advances the distributor? or it should idle okay without the line, yes, no? have some serious plumbing to do before, before that is done,,, the main one from pump to the along with the crankcase and the pvc to the intake manifold is done, but the one to the distributor is in dis repair, and according to the manual it is somehow connected to the mainline, but can not figure that on out so far
    Last edited by pelago; 03-08-2018 at 12:39 AM.

  6. #416
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    grill.jpg


    without the lights makes it look like a insect, had to put the grill on to keep the fan sort of aligned

  7. #417
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Congratulations. That's a step in the right direction. The oil filters never leak when they are covered in rust and crud. Usually the vacuum advance ties in to the base of the carburetor, in order to get constant vacuum. You can run the engine all you want without the advance hooked up, without issue. As long as your vacuum source is plugged, the engine will run just fine. When you go to crack the throttle, (mid to full) she will stumble without the advance connected. A timing light is nice to set it to speck, but an experienced ear can work just as well. The military did have a timing kit that had all the adapters for timing the 24 volt distributor, (a standard 12 volt timing light will not work) and they do come up for sale from time to time, at a premium price. I know of one kit that was found at a flea market that was bought for $40, but those are few and far between.

  8. #418
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Congratulations!!!!

  9. #419
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    IAW service manual the firing order is 1,3,4,2. not a problem, but when i put that on the distributor nada, went to TDC on the block (finger in the hole method) can not see down the hole whatsoever it appears that the firing order is not as in the manual. possible reasons, 1. oil pump taken out and not replaced correctly, distributor taken out and not put back in correctly. since distribotor needs to be turned clockwise to advance, it appears as if the dist is maxed on adbance going back to basics. will pull number 1 out of hole and again do the compression finger test. while watching the uncovered dist and see what happens. am confident it will run all right.

    addendum 1hr later
    Went out to the beast and confirmed that the firing order is now different than the manual. took cap off again and held finger over #1 hole and watched the rotor, it compressed where it should be #3. changed over the cap to the actual firing order as it physically is and loosened the dist and tried again. nothing, roved the distributor ever so slowly and nada not one damn thing. Pull dist and back it off one "click" so to speak?? damifiknow it ried to run yesterday but just was not there?? ran sort of for about 3 seconds yesterday
    Last edited by pelago; 03-08-2018 at 07:23 PM.

  10. #420
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    First things first, the engine was running a day or so ago? It wasn't running perfect, but was running? What changes were made in between then and now, if any? I ask because you had mentioned that the carb was flooding easily. Just trying to see the whole picture.

    If you had compression when the rotor was at the number three firing position, then your distributor is about two to three clicks off. Pull the distributor out, bring number one up on compression, then set the distributor back with the rotor in the close neighborhood to number one. When you move the If you run into an issue with the oil pump being out of sink with the firing order position, that isn't the end of the world. You can place the distributor in to verify the position of the oil pump at TDC, then base your firing order off of that. The oil pump will only allow you two positions to install the distributor, either on, or 180 degrees out. Either way, you can put number one firing position on the cap, wherever you need it to be. The only limitation would be if you are running the waterproof military plug wires. I don't think that there was much slack when installed, so that would be a limiting factor on firing order placement.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 03-09-2018 at 05:49 AM.

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