It might be a good idea to check your ignition switch. I did a lot to my engine to fix rough running (overhauled carb, tuned up distributor, replaced distributor, plugs and wires) and all I needed was a new switch.
not the switch, am positive because i am feeding the dist right off the pin a of the regulator and that is what goes to the switch.
now here is the bad news.
GOT A STUCK EX VALVE... DAMN DAMN DOUBLE DAMN
3 ISSUES
1. either the oil pump was replaced and not put in right or the dist taken out and not put in right. have to be tdc on #1 to do that, dont think it was done properly. firing order by manual is 1,3,4,2 dist layed out where #1 is top and right corner, this particular dist has the firing order where number 3 is. can deal with that i think (think)
2. stuck valve is a completly new issue, old school was that stuck valves could be cleared by pouring stp down the carb while engine running, actuall have done that twice once on a ford flathead and once on a 56 pontiac. both times it worked. However not so sure this time. valve is stuck open. In years (YEARS) past i have taken heads off old flatheads and done things and replaced the head without changing head gaskets (when you only make 15.00 a week working at a grocery store after school money is tight) and was successful, maybe can do this time also, depends on the head gasket. taking head off not something i planned on doing, but think i have no choice. Then the actual valve think it is rusted tight at this time and that is wht happens when these things are not run. had it been turned over at least thais probably would not have happened.
Taking the head off today as soon as my garage warms up a bit, just went outside and fired up the kero heater for a while, it is 32 in the garage at this time (9 39am). when it is a bit warmer i will pull the head off and take a look see, might, just might, might be able to whack the valve with a mallet and loosen it up, tried to do that from inspection side but was unable to do so. I know from experience with old flatheads that this can be done, (hope so)
A. On the '48, we did have the oil pump 180 out, but if you get the distributor 180 out too ....
Every F and L head fires 1 -3- 4 - 2.
B. We thought we could get away with reusing a head gasket too. Didn't work. Don't plan on leaving a used gasket on permanently - maybe for checking out and fooling around. I have had external leaks as the engine cools down and there is a small leak into #2 that lets the plug foul with coolant a bit and it misses on #2 until things warm up. Pulling the head and replacing the gasket is on the warmer weather list.
C. Did you check fuel pump pressure to carb? I'll bet that new pump runs way more than 2-3 PSI.
You had a plan for getting this back together. Just remember - the plan works until the first time someone smacks you in the nose or the first rounds crack over your head.
Give the exhaust valve a good soaking with penetrant. Once you get it freed up, you'll be back in business. Your distributor is 180 degrees out. The oil pump is fine, since you have a fine adjustment to get the timing back in sink by fine tuning the distributor.
I would use a new head gasket. I have reused BB Chrysler head gaskets, and have used high temp silicone as header gaskets. This isn't one of those times to skimp.
MAJOR SETBACK
got the valve freed up and it cleaned up and seemed to work okay, then went to adjust valve. would not adjust. Good friend, who is a master mechanic looked at it and found that the tappet or lifter is stripped??? not adjustable, can not achieve a gap, no matter what we tried, can actualy hold it down and pul the threaded portion out and that aint good. locked the valve open and then worked on it for a while the damn threads are stripped, got to pull the cam out and replace that lifter. after a long discussion it is felt that we can do it without pulling whole engine out, drop oil pan, drop sump, pull oil pump, compress all springs and pull valves, pull front end off, expose gears and timing gears and then pull cam out. after all the lifters are raised up and tied off so that they will not fall out as cam is pulled, (wire ties on each lifter, maybe tape and wire ties, but keep the lifters up, pull cam and then drop the lifters out. Then with each lifter out inspect each one to see that the other three are still good, if not replace all four. My friend mike does not believe that they will be bad because the ihe engine is really in good shape no wear on cylinder walls, no ridge on cylinder wall, and valves are in good shape and
seat well. when ever that valve got stuck, the lifter beat on it and busted the threads. el crapoooooo, boogers, shxxxt, and all the other words that the thing will censor out, but was able to order a head gasket from advance they actually had it in the computer and the photo matched remains of the head gasket..
going to disassemble and then evaluate parts and replace what is bad
This is not uncommon with ancient vehicles. Just when you think you're ready to leap ahead, you stub your toe and fall flat on your face.
We thought we had the '48 ready to hit the road - but it would not run. The attached picture is us looking at valves and working our way back into the engine.
The last step was using a dial indicator to find #1 TDC, resetting the oil pump, adjusting mechanical advance on the distributor - then working our way back to an assembled engine. Three carburetors, a new distributor, a head bolt missing under the carb throat then a defective condenser in the new distributor and two more months in the shop - then it ran.
are there alignment marks on the gear for cam to crank believe my oil pump also not in proper alignment, and the dist has it firing #1 where#3 is, got to reset both dont you love that damn bolt under carb. this manual that i have is your basic org maint, or as we called 2nd echelon, where no one could go inside anything all had to go to depot repair to get into engine... did have a boost, when i pulled timing gear cover was amazed at how clean it was
Yeah, the gear is fiber, but it's just about eternal - and a lot quieter than a metal gear would be. I think we dial indicatored #1 because we couldn't find a mark either.
You have the head off. Pull the oil pump. The slot in the oil pump shaft is off center. Turn the engine over until you get #1 TDC on the compression stroke (not exhaust). Set the distributor to get the rotor pointed at #1 post on the distributor cap (about 4 -5 o'clock) and note just where the long and short side of the slot on the tongue is. Use the distributor shaft to align the oil pump - don't let the pump drive where the distributor points, make the distributor tell the pump.
Two guys make this job easier...
I just went out and opened the hood on the '48 (with the 5? F-head) to look at just where wires went. On this engine, the wire to #1 is at about 4 or 5 o'clock on the distributor cap.
Good luck and watch out for doing more damage to that hand.
Last edited by LarrBeard; 03-10-2018 at 03:17 PM.
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