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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #481
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Went out to garage, said all right you scum sucking toad piece of whale shxt on the bottom of the ocean, you are lower than whale crap, you run or your next life will be $1.98 razor blades.

    It started.....................dont run too good, but then again the points are probably older than my daughter, and the plugs the same way and it has a patched up set of spark wires. But it ran
    1. LEAK AT EXH MANIFOLD AT #4, BUT THIS IS WEIRD MANIFOLD, ONLY ONE STUD USED AT #1 AND #4, NOT CRAZY ABOUT THAT, HAVE STUDS BUT MANIFOLD NOT SET UP FOR THAT?????????????
    2. SPARK PLUG WIRES 260.00 OUCH
    4. NEED PLUGS AND POINTS AND TUNE UP STUFF, RAN IT FOR 1/2 HOUR WATER FLOWING WELL, NOT HOT AT ALL. OIL PRESSURE IS AT 35LBS
    5. NO LEAKS AT ALL, NO OIL, NO WATER
    Last edited by pelago; 04-09-2018 at 03:59 PM.

  2. #482
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Well, sometimes it just needs to be spoken to!

    You probably don't need this now, but - here is a rough condenser check with a Simpson 260:

    A. Simpson to R x 10K range.

    B. Short leans on condenser to discharge it.

    C. Connect Simpson across condenser.

    D. A good condenser (approximately .22 uF/450-volts) will kick the needle about 5% up-scale on the Simpson as the condenser charges. No tic of the needle - condenser is open. This does not check for insulation breakdown. (Radios use capacitors - ignitions use condensers; Harumph).

    E. Leakage should be 1.5 meg-ohms or greater. Less than that - coil won't ring enough to give you a good spark.

  3. #483
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The exhaust manifolds could have used an extra fastener(s) on cylinder 1 and 4. With the center three, I suppose the engineers thought that was enough. They had to make room for the intake manifold. Once they do seal, they stay sealed rather well. The design didn't change until the seventies, when they went away from the 134 c.i. altogether.

    LarrBeard,

    Now you have me on the look out for a Simpson 260. Good tip for checking condensers. Often an overlooked part of the ignition system. Thank you Sir.

  4. #484
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    A simpson meter is one of the finest meters ever made, this was the standard issue to every tech in the Marine Corps and on every tech bench i ever saw. i bought one years ago and got the heavy travel case, (protected it) to go with it. This is the meter i was trained with and one i only use, yeah digitals are nice, but try to tune a circuit and look for a dip with a digital, just can not do it, but with a simpson its right there in front of you. SUPERB METE

  5. #485
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    YEAH, NEED TO WORK ON THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. maybe take it somewhere and make sure it is perfectly flat? mill it some maybe, do have another motor, and maybe swap out, double gasket it? dont know.
    My plan originally was to get motor running and then pull the frame and all out of garage and start on the body, but might want to modify it some, new plugs, tune up including distributor cap and new plugs. Carb definitely needs some work, leaks and is not running right. My friend who helped me on the engine had a garage the was lost due to eminent domain and a new road where is garage was (Doc Holiday Auto Repair started by his father in the 50's) he will do the carb rebuild. and got two carbs for parts and pieces. $260.00 bucks for new plug wires is kinda steep that money could go a long way towards body repair, but??? there a cheaper substitute for temporary fix and get the correct ones a bit later?? Then the exhaust system, right now there is a bullcrap pipe attached to manifold and a small glass pack attached to the end. at this time putting on the correct exhaust a lot easier that doing it laying on my back under the darn thing. so that might be a advisable thing to do..

  6. #486
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    got a video how do you post it??

  7. #487
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I would take a straight edge to both the manifold, and the head, (tough to do with the intake on) to see what or if there is a low spot. If you have a low spot on the exhaust, then you can either have the manifold tried up, or purchase a thick header gasket that closely matches the exhaust port. Most likely a Ford header gasket would be a close match. They do make thicker gaskets for tough sealing headers.

    As far as the spark plugs and wires, I would clean up the plugs the best you can, (some have used a Sonic brass tumbler to remove carbon), then ohm out the plug wires to see if you have any with high resistance. They are very expensive, and I don't know of anywhere that sells or trades for used ones. I have had success in cleaning the military plugs out in the field, but did have to cut the end of a good Snap On plug socket in order to get the truck running. You can purchase a cheap set of civilian wires, and insert them into the sockets. Be sure that plug ends are secure, so they don't get stuck in the cap or plug.

  8. #488
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    my thoughts on the manifold, happen to have two of them, might even take a trip to a machine shop and have them milled flat for sure..
    to do............
    1. rebuild carb
    2. tune up points rotor, cap and cond.
    3. wires
    4. exhaust leak at #4

    hidden benefit, seems gen working at with the on/off in the OFF position voltage at source 13.2 volts dc, engine running 28 volts DC cool, engine runs pretty cool of course no load, but still water pump and thermostat doing its thing, and original plan was to run for 30 minutes and reain oil, but oil after 1 hr 30 min total run time is still clear


    https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones...5737042168788/
    Last edited by pelago; 04-10-2018 at 07:32 PM.

  9. #489
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    my thoughts on the manifold, happen to have two of them, might even take a trip to a machine shop and have them milled flat for sure
    r
    Since you have a second manifold, look it over really well for cracks and have a machine shop plane it flat. It would take a lot to warp the block under the manifold footprint.

    I had to put a second gasket under the valve side cover on the '48/52 since it had enough warp that it wouldn't seal. Permatex stuck the two together into one.

    Sometimes the pieces are as warped and bent as we are.

  10. #490
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "I had to put a second gasket under the valve side cover on the '48/52 since it had enough warp that it wouldn't seal. Permatex stuck the two together into one.

    Sometimes the pieces are as warped and bent as we are"

    sometning in what you are saying about that have some seepage, right in the middle above oil pump, probably hae to double up, but no leaks at all around valve cover, but then again onlyu have maybe 1 1/2 hours run time. dont want to run it any more until the darn thing has the exh licked, will probably hang the new exhaust on it before body goes on

    quite happy with the oil pressure 35 lbs, looks good, and the radiator now has steady flow of water when the thermostat opens, and runs pretty cool, but then again no load

    dont want to run it very long with the bad exhaust on #4 bad things can happen,,,, but when that is cured, how long do you think it will take for the crap to flush out around the rings, have no idea how long that crud and dried oil been in there. and the thing desperately needs a tune up, but wonder how long it will take to clean itself out?? Oil pretty darn clear now, should have seen all the smoke when it first started up, filled my garage up,,,, had to open all the doors and set up some fans to exhaust it, but it cleared up pretty quick. just hidden crap in the thing. what do think about lucas additive, i used that in my diesel and loved it... 1 qt lucas four quarts oil.... ran it 100 hours then changed it religiosly..
    Last edited by pelago; 04-10-2018 at 09:44 PM.

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