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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #581
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Here is some information on oil pumps and gaskets;

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/o...opic17841.html

    http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=158848

    Working through all the issues yourself, you have saved a bunch of money. It does help to have two examples of the same model, especially when it come down to doing the body work. Body measurements for fitting panels and floors are made easy when you can refer to the body of the spare. You made a wise investment in purchasing both A1s. The prices for these are going up, so you'll be money ahead, even if you do nothing to the second. When we started the A1 project, we lucked out and found three. One was only a parts tub and rotten frame with some serviceable parts. The second was descent, but had lots of extra civilian mods done to the tub. The third was a buildable project, but was missing the drivetrain. It was also nice to have an extra frame to place the body on while setting body mounts. This freed up the restoration frame to be worked and painted while the body work was completed.
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  2. #582
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The first picture is of taking the body off as a whole unit, to expose the frame to place the restoration tub. The second is of the restoration frame after removing all the grease. The third is after the driver's side floor after replacement, then the final is after the passenger floor was removed.
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  3. #583
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    A few more pictures of the body work, along with the finished A1. In short, when you get to the point of doing the body work, I'll give all the help I can.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-04-2018 at 10:06 AM.

  4. #584
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    as soon as she fires up on four and runs good....................
    bringing the body in probably on a cart like what you did.
    it was also suggested that i use a additive to restore zinc in the oil and that the older oils had zinc in them as addlitional wear protection..... thoughts??

    engine started fine, maybe 3rd rev then fired up, idle is good, and although lifters a bit noisey all indications are good, great oil pressure and temp is 165degrees
    Last edited by pelago; 05-06-2018 at 04:20 PM.

  5. #585
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The sawhorses make life a whole lot easier, when working on the tub. My current horses are heavy enough to support the frame and body all at once. It's all on casters, so the body can be rolled out to clean up the shop floor.

    Zinc and phosphate are important for flat tappet engine. You can buy additive to put in with your conventional oil. I use the non detergent SAE 30 from TSC. I need to look to see how much zinc is included in it.

  6. #586
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    another thing i learned from my friend Mike, was that when the oil pump is broken down and removed for whatever reason is that the thing has to be packed with grease to enable it to draw oil up into it. no grease no first suction to get oil flowing and since the oil pump sits basically up side down the oil stays in it... got a pesky leak around oil pump where it butts up against the block, that is project for today. not removing it but loosening it and getting sealant in there.

    i think i got it fixed packed in more of that tacky gasket seal, let it sit and tightened it down

    running 3.jpg

    running 2.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 05-07-2018 at 12:04 PM.

  7. #587
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    now another leak,,,, on the front of the pan there is a shield for timing cover,,, two of the bolts always have oil, wet oil, there and it drips,,,,, do not want to take pan off, ideas?? these are part of the ones that have the standoffs??
    Last edited by pelago; 05-07-2018 at 12:24 PM.

  8. #588
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I assume that all of the standoffs are in place? If any or all are missing, then it would be easy to deform the oil pan, or not be able to torque the pan completely if one was missing. If these bolts are over torqued, then the pan flattens out to create an oil path to the outside. None of the oil pan bolt holes are open to the crank case, so they are considered blind holes. If the oil is coming from the middle two bolts, then I would look at the front crank seal. If it is on the outer bolts, especially around the fuel pump, then I would ensure the oil line coming from the filter housing isn't leaking.

  9. #589
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    oil leaks
    lets see if i can explain this. front leak dirty oil, drops, but maybe not oil pan, the way the whole thing sits is the front end of the engine is the lowest point and oil might follow to the easiest placed to drip?? i have this piece of tubing that carries oil from journal to the head, and there is some seepage at the fitting, have not replaced it yet, but plan on it. there is oil there.

    rear end
    when i run the motor and lay under neath with a light i see no oil at all, when turn motor off, and then come back there is oil, but it is clean? and not so sure it is oil but maybe gear lube. what if i inadvertently (that means i did it but it is not my fault) over filled transmission, would that force gear lube out the spline end at the front and what i am seeing is overflow from transmission??

    damn thing runs too good to take it all apart??

  10. #590
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    I can usually tell the difference between gear oil and engine oil just by the smell if not by feel. Overfilled by how much? I can't see the output shaft seals leaking unless grossly over-serviced or there is a problem with the seal. My front yoke had a bad groove in it and had to be replaced.

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