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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #601
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    well, after talking to couple of transmission places, they all felt that rebuild in their shops quite do able. i supply the kit and they do the work, with some guarantees, but this down the road a bit. First step is to pull the transfer case, then pull the transmission (just what i wanted to do, damn thing is heavy) My young friend Mike gave me some tips about the bearings and seals and he thinks that just might be a seal, they dry out, and this thing sat for ??? many years???. time to go get dirty again....... tranny coming out today YUK

  2. #602
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    My friend Mike came over and we pulled the top off the T90, and did a visual inspection, no rust, no crap in the bottom of the tranny, all gears are sharp and crisp and it shifts well, heard some complaints from other guys that when they would go to 2nd gear it would drop out of gear and that was due to rounded off gears?? maybe so, maybe not, i am not qualified to say whether that is true or not. what i can say and am comfortable in saying it is, i feel this transmission has only one issue and that is dried seals from sitting out in the weather.
    Consequently will be ordering the smaller rebuild set with seals and gaskets only. that way i can order other parts and pieces with the 40.00 difference in the two kits
    But got to admit am kinda tired of 2 steps forward and 1 step backward, but wth this project is one bolt at at rime, not all at once. have to admit am quite pleased with the voltage regulator and the generator,,,, a battery at rest charged up is 12.6vdc, two in series is s little over 25vdc. Withe the simpson on the output of the two at the starter and the ground on ground, i see the voltage drop some when starter engaged, then motor starts and then voltage goes back to a little over 25vdc, then shortly after i see it go to 27.5-28 volts. happy with that, did not look forward to getting a new 24volt gen set

  3. #603
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    transfer case and transmission out, visual inspection and checking bearings and any free play, none, just front oil seal dried out
    ordered this
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/transmi...0-transmission
    darned transfer case heavy,,, next time i wont dump it in my lap.. things there that dont need to get whacked by 150 lb chunk of steel. also kinda confused on this, there is a vacuum fitting on the bell housing, but then there is the drain hole in the bottom, what good is the vacuum when there is the drain hole??
    Last edited by pelago; 05-12-2018 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #604
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    Popping out of second can also be caused by worn poppets on the shift rails. The poppet balls in mine were badly worn (as bad as the gear in the picture I posted) and one of the springs was broken.

    30 years ago I thought it was easy to remove and reinstall a transmission and transfer case by hand. This time I decided to buy a jack from Harbor Freight. It is a little awkward to use but it was well worth the money to me.
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 05-13-2018 at 04:55 PM.

  5. #605
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    A comment about seals and such. We replaced a lot of seals in the '48.

    At one of the first shows we went to, someone told me "Hey, you're leaking something out of the left rear wheel". Of course I smelled and tasted it, it was differential lube. (The left side was a bit downhill, so everything tended to run that way).

    I got a new set of seals and we pulled the wheel and axle and snatched out the old seal and replaced it. The old guy in the shop looked at the seal we had pulled and asked "Didn't you say you replaced these?" "Of course we did - I even have a picture of that side with the old seals out".

    "Well, this is a Chicago Leather seal, and they went out of business a zillion years ago". Sure enough , the seal was a leather seal, not a rubber or neoprene type seal. Somehow, we got an old seal from the bottom of a bin - I guess it was a "NOS" seal.

    Keep an eye out and make sure you're getting "New, New Stock" seals - original isn't better here.

  6. #606
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    With the body off, the tranny will come out easily from the top side. An engine hoist, or whatever you were using will work. Crib up the engine so you don't have to pull the crossmember. Loosen the mounts to the transmission on the cross member, then crib up under the engine oil pan to clear the transmission from the cross member. The harbor freight trans jack is a good investment. I bought one of the cheap ones from Northern Tool, twenty years ago and it still works just fine. The locking chain was junk, so it was replaced with a ratchet strap, but the hydraulic ram works without issue.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-14-2018 at 05:52 AM.

  7. #607
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    ""
    "Well, this is a Chicago Leather seal, and they went out of business a zillion years ago"" years ago my dad found a 1932 Graham paige in a barn in Wisconsin, it had a blown piston, ut was in remarkable shape, he had it brought home and we got started on it, took years to find pistons and longer to get rings, but the amazing thing was the head gasket and the oil pan gasket were leather....what i want to know is how did they mill those things so that they were perfectly flat, cant have different thickness?? or could you?? the head gasket did have a metal ring pressed into it around chamber but other than that it was just leather......... wish i had it now
    Last edited by pelago; 05-14-2018 at 01:39 PM.

  8. #608
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    With the body off, the tranny will come out easily from the top side. An engine hoist, or whatever you were using will work. Crib up the engine so you don't have to pull the crossmember. Loosen the mounts to the transmission on the cross member, then crib up under the engine oil pan to clear the transmission from the cross member. The harbor freight trans jack is a good investment. I bought one of the cheap ones from Northern Tool, twenty years ago and it still works just fine. The locking chain was junk, so it was replaced with a ratchet strap, but the hydraulic ram works without issue.
    the thing is out and sitting on work bench waiting parts and pieces, remarkable how crisp and clean all the gears are, look pretty damn near new... not a drop of sludge in the gear box

  9. #609
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    EXHAUST LAYOUT.jpg

    does anyone have a actual complete layout of the exhaust? I got the kaiser willy set with header pipe (it can only go one one way) long extension pipe and muffler?? Just dont think i have it right

  10. #610
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That's a good deal on the shape of the innereds of the transmission. Some government surplus vehicles were extremely low mileage examples. The '52 Dodge M37 we had less than10,000 miles on the clock, when we purchased it. The truck had gone through a depot overhaul in the mid seventies, then cut loose to the Civil Defence program. A local fire department had the truck until retirement, as a brush truck.

    As far as the exhaust on your A1, It runs down the driver's side. Much like the picture you have posted. The header pipe can only go one way. The long pipe goes along the driver's side frame rail, then cuts over at a 45 degree angle just after the rear end. The muffler sits at that angle the the tailpipe extension or fording pipe extension exits under the passenger side rear quarter panel. The Marines typically used the fording extension, while The army mainly used the short extension. I'll see if I can drum up some pictures or drawings to better serve your needs.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-14-2018 at 06:41 PM.

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