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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #651
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    My distributor was in pretty bad shape so I opted to replace the whole thing with the electronic ignition replacement. It has the only metric hardware on the entire jeep
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  2. #652
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Then to complicate things, in Europe, there is a couple of different metric sets. A ten MM Imperial is different then a 10 MM Standard. On our Strykers, everything on the the vehicle is metric, except the CAT engine.

  3. #653
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    got a question on timing, the oil pump and the distributor lined up as it should with shallow side down and on right angle parallel to deck and the dist lined up with #1 however with timing light can not get it to adj to 5 degrees??? it will go to timing mark but manual says to go to 5 degrees?? move the gears in oil pump a little??

  4. #654
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You are correct. Turn the oil pump enough to gain another tooth with the distributor. Then you'll have your 5 degrees.

  5. #655
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    You are correct. Turn the oil pump enough to gain another tooth with the distributor. Then you'll have your 5 degrees.

    cool, will do, and just for a note, i found out that you must pack the oile pump with grease or you will not have immediate oil pressure.......... one more stupid question, looking down the hole from the distributor side clockwise on the pump or ccw

  6. #656
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    CCW, that is what comes first to mind. Not a stupid question. A liberal amount of grease does help to prime the pump. I like to take an old distributor, and remove the cam gear. Install the distributor, then take a drill and turn the distributor at the top. The whole system gets oil pumped throughout, without turning over the engine. A good way to get the oil up to the intake valves, so they are lubed prior to start up.

  7. #657
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    90 wt gear lube.. was told to use GL 4 all i can find is GL 5, but manual says GO. WTH???

  8. #658
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    90 wt gear lube.. was told to use GL 4 all i can find is GL 5, but manual says GO. WTH???
    There is a lot of discussion of GL4 vs GL5 in transmissions and gear boxes, but the small amount used to prime an oil pump and the short time it will be there - won't make a real difference. Load 'er up and go.

  9. #659
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The way I read the forums, you want to use the GL 4 in your transmission and transfer case. If you use the GL 5, the copper and brass will be slowly eaten away. Which will be evident when you change oil. There will be a lot more sparkle material found in the used oil.

  10. #660
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    t90 OLD1.jpg


    worn gears,,, after dismantle inspected gears and saw 1st and reverse maybe 20% worn. said wth ordered new first and reverse 200.00... but damn it if gonna do it right do it all the way. got the old bearing off and will take the shaft and get the new oil seal/bearing pressed on okay gl4 versus gl5. okay i get it higher number inverse proportional to itsllf but the damn manual also says use GO oil 90 wt what i the hell is that
    Last edited by pelago; 06-10-2018 at 07:37 PM.

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