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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #661
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I've always used 90w, or 85w90. I use synthetics on my new vehicles, but stick with crude derivatives in my experienced fleet.

  2. #662
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    1 gallon of gl94 36.00 but a quart of other is gl5 is 4 and change??? wtf.... anyway got it

  3. #663
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    To just prime the oil pump, GL5 will do, but GL4 for the gear boxes with bronze synchronizer and copper bearing parts....

  4. #664
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    new and old bearing.jpg


    old original bearing, and the new novak sealed bearing,, after research and looking it is pretty easy to see why that original seal would let go, not much there to stop it, the old bearing had oil pouring thru it and it had to go somewhere besides back into the transmission case. in fact the instructions are to seal off that hole for the oil and not use the supplied seal, no way to lubricate it and it could/would burn up
    Last edited by pelago; 06-11-2018 at 02:34 PM.

  5. #665
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    worn gears and the replacement gears for 1st and reverse, now some of you might not have felt that this needed to be replaced, but i would have known that the gears in that box had quite a bit of wear, and that wold have bugged me forever, so new gears, and with new seal and new gaskets and new roller bearings it is actually new again. guess this comes from the days of repairing radios for USMC, was not going to deliver a piece of comm gear that was not 100% ready to go to combat
    ]worn gears.jpgnew gears.jpg



    also interesting to note that the replacement sealed bearings came with two rubbler plugs, one is straight forward and closes up the oil passage on front of transmission and the other fills in the hole on main gear (HOWEVER MINE DID NOT HAVE THAT HOLE) so i will fill in the main hole in the front with provided plug, but that brings upanother issue and that is the felt seal, will not be putting that in for two reasons one it will not get lube and will probably burn up and since spend 80.00 for a sealed bearing dont need it
    Last edited by pelago; 06-12-2018 at 08:21 AM.

  6. #666
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I agree with you 100%. When in doubt, change it out. That is a motto that we adhere to when working on the power packs for the combat vehicles that we refurbish. Hoses, seals, and parts are cheap compared to a soldier's life. These vehicles go through hell on a regular basis, so we strive to make sure they will keep moving under fire. You will be money and time ahead, when you take care of the details now.

  7. #667
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Its out there, but gotta look for it, four box stores then last on list was a napa store 12 miles away, but they had it

    ITS OUT THERE.jpg


    ONE MORE NOTE.... The new bearing/seal came with two plugs for sealing off oil passage to bearing/and seal. one of the plugs to go in this hole, but my model does not have this hole, so not going to worry about it

    DIFFERENT MODEL.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 06-12-2018 at 12:22 PM.

  8. #668
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    From what I have read on the Novak kit, you are correct. Some later shafts had the hole, where the earlier ones did not. With your sealed bearings, it is not an issue.

    Napa tends to have everything one would need on these experienced vehicles. Plus they tend to have counter folks that have been around, and know what you are talking about. We didn't have a Napa around these parts for quite some time, but now that we do, I'll drive the 20 miles to go there first.

  9. #669
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    question.... rapidly getting to decision time. frame, engine, brakes, done, steering yet to complete, all i have i a new shaft and two gear boxes that may or may not have usable parts in them. the worm gear itself pretty straightforward, but the shaft with all the seals and bushings and what not including the horn looks like it might be a tad bit complicated, more than a couple of hours work. however when steering done only left is body and wiring and some ancillary parts lights, black out on fender light, and what not. BUT BODY IS GONNA BE A PAIN IN THE HOOTUS. TON OF WORK THERE. let steering go for a while or not?

  10. #670
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    You're in mechanic mode now - finish the steering. Then start your sheet metal work.

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