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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #671
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The nice aspect of a M38A1, you can install the steering column either before or after the body is installed. I agree with LarrBeard, I would go ahead and finish the mechanicals, then venture into the body. The floor transmission tunnel cover is large enough to allow the body to be installed with the column and steering wheel in place.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-13-2018 at 02:02 PM.

  2. #672
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    You're in mechanic mode now - finish the steering. Then start your sheet metal work.
    COOL It is so much easier to let someone else decide,,,, steering it is

  3. #673
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    okay, anyone here know how to add the throwout bearing device to the transmission when it is mounted to the bell housing. what is the magic to adding the fork to the damn thing. dont want to remove bell housing but just might have to, thought it could be done thru inspection port but just does not seem to want to work or my hands just dont know how to do it

  4. #674
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you push the fork to engage the clutch, the carrier will slide over the fork. The return spring then hooks to the carrier to the transmission. I'm not sure I'm tracking on to why you are trying to pull the bearing through the inspection cover. The bell housing does not need to come off.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-14-2018 at 08:33 PM.

  5. #675
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    not talking about the bearing but the paddle that moves the bearing forward https://www.kaiserwillys.com/clutch-...wagon-jeepster can not get my hand, the shaft and the paddle all in the same hole,,,, not problem with throwout bell carrier and throwout bearing

  6. #676
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Once you remove the throw out bearing carrier spring, then unhook the clutch cable. After that, the clutch fork will come out with the carrier. The fork rest on the pivot point.


    Your fork should be this style.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...3b-5-m38-m38a1
    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-15-2018 at 05:55 AM.

  7. #677
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    getting it out is not the issue it is getting it back in............... everything else is already there, but can not get it back in and that is the one i have................all from inspection port,,, only access

  8. #678
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    There are parts of the story that are missing. I have to assume that the transmission is hung onto the engine. I have to assume that the fork wasn't in place when the transmission was installed on the engine? You will play hell trying to slip the fork in place when the carrier can not slide forward enough to get the fork onto the carrier. Then, if the clutch cable is threaded, instead of the cable with the ball, that will complicate things a bit more. A CJ and M series clutch cable has a ball on the end that slips into the end of the fork, then travels through the rear of the bell housing. The other end has threads for clutch free play adjustment.

    In short, it appears that you will need to unbolt the transmission from the engine, and slide it back enough to gain the room to allow the carrier to slide forward enough to slip the fork into place. The inspection port is best used to adjust the pressure plate air gap for proper clutch operation. If I'm still incorrect in my assumptions, send a picture of what exactly you are dealing with.

    Thank you Sir.

  9. #679
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-15-2018 at 09:11 AM.

  10. #680
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    yes the transmission is hanging on engine bell housing, no the fork not put on prior to this, could not get transmission with fork on it to fit. the carrier is quite free and moves back and forth easily. and return spring mounted on carrier
    may have solved the problem and the problem was my stubby hands, small port and moving carrier forward at same time sliding fork in. to me it would be like juggling three tennis balls, playing hopscotch, scratching top of head at same time.. all thru inspection port...

    might have solved it though...

    took some peripheral stuff off of transmission, bottem rubber snubber mount, and taking the entire bolt assembly for the cable out of bell housing. inserted transmission deep enough to have it hold and was able to turn transmission cw until the carrier is 90% out of norm, then was able to slide fork in and get under carrier and onto pivot. rotated transmission back to normal. replaced cable mount and put cable end thru fork, then tied cable off to keep some tension on it..
    so far seems to have worked. then that damn heavy transfer case, think i will use the hoist or get another rupture, had two dont need another on top
    Last edited by pelago; 06-15-2018 at 10:47 AM.

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