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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #691
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    hey, thanks, they got a gasket also. cool

  2. #692
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    AS a cherry on top of the cake, I used a Tite-Steer to replace the sector shaft tensioner on the '48. That gearbox worm and sector had always been just a little looser that I wanted it to be. It drives better than it ever has in my 53 years of being around it.

    http://www.siminoffjeeparts.com/siminoff-jeeparts-faqs

    Get it going and see if you think it needs one.

  3. #693
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I often wondered how well the tight steer worked. The pin is spring loaded, to keep tension on the sector, if I read it correctly. Seems like a good product, and a better idea. If not, then every other oil change, adjust the tensioner as needed. Tire choice will have a lot to do with the wandering of the steering as well. Bias plies are notorious for following every groove in the road, with the exception of non directional mil spec tires. They do alright until it rains, then it's hard to start, and harder to stop. Radials make a world of difference in improving steering performance.

  4. #694
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    not sure how to respond. My original plan was to NOT do road trips, have certain amount of driving allowed on insurance (great price, full coverage comp and liability) but orignal plan was parades locally and trips to dairy queen with my labrador retriever. maybe trip to beach all of them really close by. But radials kinda take away from the military look?? or not

  5. #695
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    PULLLED A GAGLE OF SHIMS. which makes me wonder were shims put in during manufacture? a later date? i intend (right or wrong???) to put in same number of shims that i took out. did order a new pack of them though...

    i watched the video at least five times, rebuild the box, no where or when did it tell you how to determine number of shims? and then the sector shaft, isnt there a alignment? he just dropped it in, scares me a bit. just drop it in??
    Last edited by pelago; 06-19-2018 at 12:33 PM.

  6. #696
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    To keep with your originality, stay with the non directional military tread. You won't be out in the rain/snow/ice, and you'll have no benefit to worrying about tire wear/loose steering. If I were you, I would spend my money elsewhere then invest in the tight steer gismo. I don't have one, but keep the steering sector adjusted every other oil change, and have no issues. I do have a set of bias plies on the front axle, but when they warm up, they track alright.

    As far as shims go, I would assume that being an M38A1, there was not a great deal of miles put on during it's service life for Uncle Sam. Often times the vehicle before leaving the service, will go through an overhaul program at one of the depots. There all the components are broken down and inspected for wear, then rebuilt. We had an '52 M37 Dodge that had 9,000 miles on the clock, and had been overhauled in '76 at the depot in Colorado. Long story short, I would use the same thickness of shims to put your steering shaft mount back together. The shims are there to set the preload on the steering shaft input. There is no set amount of shims to start with. The end point will be that there is no play up and down on the steering shaft. The video here has a good explanation on the steering box rebuild. He goes over the process thoroughly.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0aNkZhlDxc

    The steering sector shaft is keyed to align the bell crank in the proper location. When you drop the sector shaft into the box, over the steering shaft worm gear, ensure that the sector is centered. This step doesn't mean much, except if the steering wheel is installed on the shaft. It is my preference that when the wheels are straight, then the spoke of the steering wheel should be straight up and centered.

  7. #697
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    well, i see i screwed up, did not mark the pitman arm but will have to make sure all are centered two tires and then pitman arm. cool video

  8. #698
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The sector shaft is keyed, so it shouldn't go on any other way.... Just remember the ball joint on the pitman arm goes away from the steering box. The splines on the arm are tapered, so it is near impossible to install backwards, but have watched people try.

    The guy who puts those videos together, has a whole series of Jeep fabrication videos. He fabricates a lot of his own body panels, and is really good at it. Very worth while to watch. His handle is metal shaper on you tube.

  9. #699
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    " sector shaft is keyed" Whooa where, holding it in my hand and there is no key? got a groove in top that if centered is vertical? but got so many different pieces ihis thing that going to have to line things up for full left turn on wheel and full right turn on wheel..
    and am trying to figure out this thing https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-hor...0-66-m38-m38a1 and do i need it,,, got a purely mechanical switch for horn?? so where in the heck does this go?? my steering shaft had nothing inside it nor were there any wires to make a shortcut for horn, but i thought i would put the original mechanical layout on it?

  10. #700
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    There is not a woodruff key, but the sector shaft should have a solid portion within the splines to match with the drag link. The groove should line up with the drag link in the center, wheels straight position. Regardless of where the drag link is located currently, it should line up when the column is installed. I should have been more clear.

    The horn adapter just gives a path for the wire through, and out of the steering box. The wire runs up the steering shaft to the horn button in the steering wheel.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-19-2018 at 08:12 PM.

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