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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #711
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    damn, seem to have a leak in the xfer case to the rear driveshaft, first impression is it is a seal right at the output side to the rear driveshaft. does not look like earth shattering fix

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...-transfer-case

    guess i need #2 and #45
    comments?? after laying on the deck and staring at the damn thing with a light leaks from seal out??
    again only wanting to do this once, am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO wanting to get hot on the body (hmm someone with a dirty mind could get the wrong meaning here)
    Last edited by pelago; 06-26-2018 at 10:01 AM.

  2. #712
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That will be an easy fix. Just look at the yoke's sealing surface for any grooves worn into the sealing surface. If no grooves or pits are seen, put you a new seal in, and you'll be good to go. Make sure that none of the gear lube got on the parking brake shoes. If it did, clean well with brake cleaner. If it was the service brakes, then they would have to be replaced, because you can never fully get the lube out of the shoe linings.

    You'll get to the body soon enough. Once you do, and get the hang of rust repair, it will all come together fairly quickly. You will be painting by fall.

  3. #713
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    SINCE the gear box has brass bushings inside the correct oil needed, 140wt but where, damn stuff

  4. #714
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Here is straight 140 weight gear oil. It is GL4, which I believe is the stuff that goes easy on brass and bronze.

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/c...3/754ba5cbea99

    Now, I have been following the GL4 vs. GL5 oil discussion on this and several other forums and I wonder to myself if we are overthinking this. I see a number of pictures with worn brass and bronze transmission pieces, but these tend to be pieces out of small, high speed gear boxes. Old Jeep boxes are neither of those.

    I know we fuss over our Jeeps and want to pamper them in their second or third lives, but is GL4 vs. GL5 really that big a deal?

  5. #715
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    since high speed movement is not going to happen in the gear box, nor will there probably not be any heat except from ambient heat off engine and exhaust you are probably correct. this thing will probably sit 99.9% of the time. you are most likely correct. a transmission it aint

  6. #716
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    might there be a video of assembly of the steering box, exterior tube, and mechanical horn button (long one that goes thru the steering shaft). got all kinds of parts and pieces and want to confirm what i have. unfortunately did not have a complete steering assembly to dis assemble to make notes, all i had were pieces and parts. and once bearings and snap rings in dont want to upset apple cartSteering-Gear-Box-M38-M38A1_1.jpg

    this drawing does not lend itself to be enlarged, and dumb as it sounds want to make sure seals are facing in right direction

  7. #717
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Check with the G503 websight. There should be a link to a video, and the information you need.

  8. #718
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    no luck. damn i just feel like i am missing something and dont understand what i have. the long shaft that connects the mechanical switch to the top button. IAW photo from willys i seem to be missing a ??? round?? "thing" part of picture and was supposed to get it but all i got was the shaft? (nopun intended). and the actual push button on top, damn got no idea how that goes together, it does not go together like the picture??. all i know for sure is the bearings, and the seal

  9. #719
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Surplus city Jeep parts has the round disk that goes on the end of the horn shaft. After that, then there is the horn button itself.

  10. #720
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    will have to take a photo of what i have, have tried multiple configurations all in order to make the long shaft move to activate the switch for the horn?? here is another uh oh
    in the tm manual (IN THE CORPS WE HAD ECHELONS OF MAINTENANCE DEPOT REBUILD AT ALBANY GA AND BAKERSFIELD CA) the highest of course was depot. but the wrench turners in the field had a better manual than the operator manual, yeah this one is pretty good, and has a lot of information, but the higher one is better, but that is another 40 bucks. anywayt back to the photo and kaiser photo and description. on the shaft there are two seals, but kaiser does not identify two seals, one at the horn/wheel end and one at thed box end?? and there is a disparage on the shims, the real manual says there is a gasket along with the shims, but when i took two of them apart no gasket?? but manual says there is one and there is no gasket in the shim kit. but am making progress have the two bearings installed on the shaft itself and have put in and removed the shaft from box all fits well. now the manual says the shims are to eliminate up and down play when i disassembled both boxes they both all had multiple shims? when i first put the shaft into the box it had no up and down play with no shims?? put shims in and still no play.... but that damn horn button>>>>>....... when honking horn button has to push rod into the bottom switch to activate it. but the three pieces are being a royal pain in the ***STEERING EXPLODED VIEW.jpg

    Steering-Gear-Box-M38-M38A1_1.jpg both photos enclosed and one from kaiser and one from manual

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