Page 92 of 252 FirstFirst ... 42829091929394102142192 ... LastLast
Results 911 to 920 of 2512

Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #911
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,450
    As a side project, we have a '65 Galaxy 500 4 door. Today it was rolled around from the back yard to the drive way. When we picked it up last winter, the engine was stuck tight. Using some garage logic, and barn yard engineering, she turns free now. The original carb is seized tight, even after applying heat, and soaking in PB Blaster. The owner gave the go ahead to order an aftermarket carb, (eBay special Chinese I'm sure). The engine oil doesn't look bad, and the large amounts of trans fluid and penetrating oil didn't drain past the Piston rings. That's good news. After the engine does fire, I will dump in a quart of kerosene in to the oil. Then run the engine for 10 minutes at idle, then dump. The oil that will be dumped in will be some cheap dime store oil, then the process will be repeated until I'm satisfied that the engine is clean.

  2. #912
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    As a side project, we have a '65 Galaxy 500 4 door. Today it was rolled around from the back yard to the drive way. When we picked it up last winter, the engine was stuck tight. Using some garage logic, and barn yard engineering, she turns free now. The original carb is seized tight, even after applying heat, and soaking in PB Blaster. The owner gave the go ahead to order an aftermarket carb, (eBay special Chinese I'm sure). The engine oil doesn't look bad, and the large amounts of trans fluid and penetrating oil didn't drain past the Piston rings. That's good news. After the engine does fire, I will dump in a quart of kerosene in to the oil. Then run the engine for 10 minutes at idle, then dump. The oil that will be dumped in will be some cheap dime store oil, then the process will be repeated until I'm satisfied that the engine is clean.
    YEAH, OLD SCHOOL, MAY BE OLD BUT IT WORKS AND HAVE USED DIESEL, SOME WHAT CHEAPER. Have my extra f134 full to the rim with oil. just sitting there, letting it do its thing until the first one is drivable. saw a engine stand for 70.00 bucks at the local napa store. thinking of getting it these damn things are heavy, heavy, heavy. my plan is to do a complete rebuild of this motor, crank outwards, bearings, rings (pistons if needed) new hardened seats and new valves...... but this one will be painted fire engine red

  3. #913
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,450
    Go to a Harbor freight for the engine stand. Don't buy the cheapest one for $49.00, it is good for 1,000 lbs, but is not real steady when turning the engine bottom side up. The 2,000 lbs is under $100.00, but it folds up for storage. It has two legs that makes it much more stable. Another place to check would be the pawn shops. Usually people buy them, and use them once, then they are just in the way. They go cheap second hand. At one time I had four engine stands, two with big block Chryslers, and two with 727 automatic transmissions bolted up for service. I bought them from garage sales and pawn shops. When we moved, I sold them all, along with all the engines and parts.

  4. #914
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    Never have used a engine stand. anyway. maybe new issue, minor, but may be? temp sending unit, got one of those nifty laser temp gauges and it reads 165degrees everywhere, and that is the thermostat, but when i alligator clip the new gauge it reads over 200?? not sure i know all that i need to know of this, know that the actual thing is a variable resistor and thats about it but wonder if original 24vdc sending unit is kaput24vdc temp sending unit.jpg

    this is close to fifty bucks
    Last edited by pelago; 10-27-2018 at 07:59 PM.

  5. #915
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,679

    Temperature Sensor

    [QUOTE ...not sure i know all that i need to know of this, know that the actual thing is a variable resistor 3160[/ATTACH]

    I've learned more than I want to know about the various Jeep temperature sensors, 6-volt and 12-volt versions - but I've not dabbled with the 24-volt sensors.

    You are right, it is a resistor - actually a thermistor. The hotter it gets, the lower its' resistance.

    Take the most reliable instrument for Jeep work - your Simpson 260 - and read its resistance cold. Depending on how cold, it should be about 100-ohms or so. Start the engine and watch the resistance as the engine heats up. On the F-134 sensors for 12-volt systems, it goes to about 33 ohms at 165 degrees and 15 ohms at 212.

    If it's shorted (low resistance at cold), not much that you can do about that but replace it. If it moves in the right direction, just not reading right, you can set the 165-degree point with some resistors that can be hidden somewhere.

    I have found that the Simpson 260 is the most reliable meter to use on old Jeeps. The Fluke 77 is just too good. It reads the spikes and noise and gives erratic or weird reading voltage readings sometimes. I was measuring my temperature sensor with the Fluke last week and I got two different readings depending on red lead/black lead to contact connection (33 vs 45 ohms). The 260 said 33 ohms (+/- just a little) regardless of lead polarity. I would suspect some dissimilar metal issues with cast iron, brass, copper and water causes the Fluke to not understand what I want it to read.

    We'll figure this out ...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #916
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    well the critter is warm now, so will wait until tomorrow and graph the resistance center probe to ground.. and also at same time write down the temp from the nifty laser temp gauge. but the engine runs at 165 that is the thermostat that is in it. and i can put my hand on the head at the 4th cylinder and the temp sensor says 165, i mean its not comfortable but not so hot you cant do it, just runs cool, of course no load. but seems the more it runs the better it runs. and been a long time since i had to manually choke a motor... but hit throttle couple of times, close the choke, and hit starter and she starts right up, then slowly release the choke and it settles down and idles pure oh yeah my first body part showed up fed X it is the complete tool box and lid,,, only one thing wrong it looks too new

  7. #917
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    can feel no residual heat in the darn thing but it is reading 2.8K ???? 52 degrees out and been off for over an hour?

  8. #918
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,450
    I concur on the Fluke 77 being too sensitive. We had a speedometer some years back on a Stryker that would not pick up the signal from the output speed sensor. When checking the signal with a Fluke, you would see the sensor picking up and dropping the tooth, at both the bulk head connector and at the speedometer. The tech slaved in the harnesses from the speedo to the bulkhead, but could not from the bulk head to the pack. We sat there and brainstormed for a while and decided to pay a visit to the electronic sights folks to see if the had an oscilloscope. They rummaged through a storage closet and found one that was covered in dust. We took it back to the shop and hooked it up. The scope showed that we were in fact seeing the square wave, but the corners of the wave were really fuzzy. This was enough interference that the gauge was not picking up anything. To verify the thought, we ground hopped the power pack from another vehicle to the effected vehicle's systems. The speedometer worked as desired.

    The moral of the story, proven technology such as the Simpson meter or an old dusty oscilloscope can out preform modern digital technology.

    In regards to your water temp gauge conundrum, 2.8k is way to high. LarrBeard is correct that the ohms should be around 100 ohms at cold, and around 30 ohms at operating temp.

  9. #919
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,679

    Water Temp Sensor - More Information is Good

    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    In regards to your water temp gauge conundrum, 2.8k is way to high
    I don't know the gauge scheme on the M38A1. I am assuming that as the engine gets hotter, the sensor resistance goes lower, more current flows through the gauge and the needle goes upscale toward 200+ degrees. I also am assuming that the gauge is still a bimetal thermal gauge.

    Now that the engine is cool, clip lead the sensor back in place and see what it reads. If our guess about how things work is correct, the needle should hardly move at all.

    2.8K seems high for a cold sensor, but again, this is a 24-volt system and we'll learn something from this experiment. AT least now we know that there is not an internal short in the sensor that pegs the gauge.

    In the '48, we managed to damage the oil pressure gauge. Someone (?), probably the shop goat, dinged up the oil pressure sender and shorted the gauge to ground. (You know, that goat that walks through the shop at night and takes things off benches, eats up pans full of screws and little parts and generally causes havoc). That short warped the gauge innards - it reads about 20 PSI with the engine off and 50+ PSI with oil pressure on the engine. That's a project this winter.

    If the sensor lead to the gauge was grounded, the gauge could have been damaged.

  10. #920
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,261
    Time *************0800 0815 0830 0845 0900
    simpson*********** 2.8k 1.8k 800 800 800
    centech************ 63d 104d 157d 157d 157d

    the laser probe was sighted in at the casting right next to the temp sending unit
    ??????????????????

    AM LETTING IT COOL DOWN TO AIR TEMP THEN READ THE ACTUAL NEW GAUGE
    Last edited by pelago; 10-29-2018 at 09:46 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •