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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #921
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    That's good data. The cold to hot ratio is about 3:1, which looks about right for a ratio. On the sensor that I am adapting for the '48, cold is about 100 ohms and 165-degrees is 33 ohms; close to 3:1.

    What does the gauge read with the cold sensor connected?

    Do you have a new gauge to check things with?

    The answer may be a series resistor to cut current back when the sensor is hot.

  2. #922
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    GAUGE IS ZERO WITH BLOCK AT 57D AMBIENT, resistance center tap to gnd 2.8k gauge new out of box or a new senser

  3. #923
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    GAUGE IS ZERO WITH BLOCK AT 57D AMBIENT, resistance center tap to gnd 2.8k gauge new out of box or a new senser
    OK , just one more test.

    The next time you run the beast, measure the sensor resistance just as the gauge passes by 165 degrees.

    We know that the sensor measures 800-ohms at 157 degrees, the stable block/engine temperature. We need to add resistance to shift that 800-ohms to whatever the gauge wants to indicate 165-degrees.

    I think we will need to add some series resistance.

    I have a suspicion that nothing is really bad - just that after all these years and with after market parts - things just don't match like they did in 1953. The other thing I have had to keep in mind is that I try to get modern lab precision out of things that never were that precise.

    On the '48, I've decided to settle for a gauge that swings in the correct direction (cold to the left, hot to the right) and sits at 165 with the engine at running temperature. If it gets hotter that that, I don't care exactly how hot it is, I just want to know that it's getting too hot.

  4. #924
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I have a correction to make on the Harbor Freight 2,000 lbs. engine folding stand. It is on sale for $130.00, and not around $100, as I first reported.

    If the original harness is being used, you may want to check to see if there is an issue with the wire itself.

  5. #925
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    damn damn double damn
    New issue, ROSS steering. It seems (as explained to me by 4wd guys) that somehow in its history one of the m38a1 had in fact had a m38 ross box installed in it, as explained to me that was not a big deal as long as the worm gear matched the box. so like a dumb **** i took the cleaned ross steering box to have new bushings put it, no big deal and they did HOWEVER THE SECTOR SHAFT PROVIDED DOES NOT FIT..... there is the rub, and after talking to 4wd guys this is how it happened many m38a1's sent to national guard units and they (not all) had a bastardized steering shaft and box from m38 vice m38a1 integral parts... in the photo one can see the difference in the sector shafts, one (larger) is m38a1 the other is m38. my solution since i already have 200 bucks into this event is to use the m38a1 ross box the replacement sector shaft with new seal, and hopefyully sell the m38 box advertised with new bushings and new seals?? he said he would not take less than 200.00 for it, and there is no way to combine two to get one the worm gear has to match the particular sector shaft
    sheeeeeeeesh will it ever endDSC02196.jpg

  6. #926
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    also, just what keeps the lubrication in on the big end of the worm gear, no seals in the drawings submitted by kaiser, surely there has to be a seal, oil will get past the bearings and get out of the thing, there is no seal listed to go in to the coupler that goes over the shims?? not doing this again

  7. #927
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I made the mistake of hanging a complete steering column assembly upside down. Went back into the shed a week later to find a puddle of gear dope on the floor. I didn't want to hang it up by the near perfect steering wheel, so hung it up by the pitman arm. The lube is thick enough to stay down into the gear box.

    If you didn't have bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all. $200 bucks is a fair price on a revamped A1 box. Shouldn't hang around long.

  8. #928
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Gear Box Frustrations !!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    they (not all) had a bastardized steering shaft and box from m38 vice m38a1 integral parts... in the photo one can see the difference in the sector shafts, one (larger) is m38a1 the other is m38.
    sheeeeeeeesh will it ever endDSC02196.jpg
    Ira:

    Posts like this show why zillions of folks are following your project. You are the professor for a post-graduate course in Jeep renovation. You probably just saved four or five folks from wandering into the same problem.

    In an almost humorous way, this goes back to my First Two Rules of Jeep:

    Rule 1. What you see is what you have. Don't blindly trust what is written somewhere.

    Rule 2. Never say "Willys-Overland never did XXXXXXX". The corollary is "Never say 'No one would do that..." ".

    They would, and they did - and here is the proof.

    Go work on an antenna for a while.

  9. #929
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    thanks, for that compliment. This a "trying" but enjoyable pursuit!! am waiting for a seal for the sector shaft, then will tackle the "SEAL??' on the steering wheel shaft/worm gear assembly. if you lube it according to instructions (level with fill hole) you are actually even with the top bearing of the shaft. there is no way (i believe) that 140wt gear oil will NOT leak?
    again it was recommended that i use the john deer grease/fluid that goes in the knuckle. that stuff requires heat to liquefy, this ross box only gets heat ambient from the exhaust. I just done believe in cold weather that it will quickly turn to fluid in cold weather?? might be wrong but want to be sure
    DSC02105.jpgDSC02120.jpgDSC02124.jpg

  10. #930
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    yes, there is a seal,,, supposed to go under the three bolt shroud with the shims?? we shall see
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nos-upp...0-66-m38-m38a1

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