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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #931
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    yes, there is a seal,,, supposed to go under the three bolt shroud with the shims?? we shall see
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nos-upp...0-66-m38-m38a1
    It would have to go under the three bolt cover, with all the shims. My apologies for the earlier bad intel. After thinking about it, the oil came out around the horn wire, and not through the steering shaft.

    In your defense, unless you had the M38 steering box and a M38A1 box next to each other, you wouldn't have known the difference. Both would have been painted the same shade of O.D., so unless you were to measure shafts, the dogs of the sector, you wouldn't have known. High price of learning.

  2. #932
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "High price of learning. " yupper

  3. #933
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    received, new passenger floor, new tool box with lid, new right front side panel, new support inside piece. quite frankly all this looks rather intimidating, correction HUGELY INTIMIDATING.

  4. #934
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If a simpleton like me can do it, so can you. The hardest part will be getting the old inner support removed. There are quite a few spot welds to drill. When I get back in the office, I'll post you a link to a spot weld cutter that really helps speed up the process. Sharpen up your chisels, and stock up on vise grips. A word of advice, don't scrap any piece, i.e. the tool box, because you may be able to fix the rust over time, and use it on the second body. Also, little pieces of original steel helps to have around to fix small spots.
    How are the hat channels under the floor?

  5. #935
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I think it was old Ben Franklin that said something to the effect "Experience keeps a dear school, but a fool will learn in no other".

    I am an alumnus of Dear School.

  6. #936
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "How are the hat channels under the floor?" ONE WORD, DISMAL, NEED TO REPLACE THEM ALL
    after inspecting all of the pieces i received, have to say am quite impressed with what i have seen, now what do i know about stuff like this actuall nothing my last time doing something like this was to help a friend replace a fender on his cherry 58 ford, right front fender got whacked when a woman ran a light. thats it. These pieces all look well constructed, and sturdy 30 gauge steel. will take and post some pictures of the body to be restored


    M38A1 BODY REBUILD 004.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 005.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 006.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 007.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 008.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-02-2018 at 10:50 AM.

  7. #937
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    CONTINUATION OF POST AND PHOTOS, did not include the tailgate nor the back deck which is in bad shape but can replace completely, (expensive ) but what the hell in for a penny in for a pound

    M38A1 BODY REBUILD 009.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 010.jpgM38A1 BODY REBUILD 011.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-02-2018 at 10:59 AM.

  8. #938
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I have used the pieces from Kaiser Willys, and they are really nice to work with. As an added bonus, they are made in the states. Your body isn't that bad really. I fabricated my own hat channel from channel stock, heating and bending to match. I added pipe where the body mounts went through to add strength, and to eliminate the white oak stiffeners, to prevent rot. The ends at the body sides were tapered to match the originals. Now they have pre-bent sections that are pretty descent. We went to a military vehicle show and a gentleman had a reproduction tool box front panel for $10.00. That saved me from having to completely tear out the tool box. While the passenger floor board was cut out, I stripped all the paint from the inside of the tool box and painted it. Then the only other piece needed was the lid.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #939
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    As promised, here is a link to the spot weld cutters; https://www.woodwardfab.com/?s=spot+...&search=Search
    This was the pictures from when the steel work was completed and a final picture;
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gmwillys; 11-02-2018 at 01:09 PM.

  10. #940
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    002.jpg

    had to put this in here this has been a bane to my efforts for too long, new bushings, new sector shaft, new seals and correct shims, moves freely, NO LEAKS, filled with gear lube and correctly done


    posted this on another jeep site and waiting to get slammed for not using grease
    "Ross M38A1steering box, repaired, completed, and no leaks filled with correct lubricant 140wt gear oil, sorry guys grease is not correct you may be happy with it but when and if you take it apart you will find that the grease is no where near the bearings it has evacuated. Was recommended that the same gear lube used in knuckel be used but that is also incorrect that needs heat to turn to luquid, this thing needs liquid to work. but that is only my humble opionion (and the engineers at willys)"
    Last edited by pelago; 11-03-2018 at 02:29 PM.

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