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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #951
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    but there are so so many beautiful women out there20150711_220051.jpg

  2. #952
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    got my last piece of body work in and it is the right rear fender well, impressive, a lot of hand work and looks great

    HOPEFULLY ALL I WILL NEED IS THE DECK AND THE TAILGATE, but that is later

  3. #953
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I think we need to back up the train a bit. Tailgate? I assume you mean the back panel, because a A1 didn't have a tailgate. The passenger side panel you showed last week was also for a CJ, but I figured that you were using the lower part to repair under the shore power indent. I would imagine that the CJ panel will follow the same curl under as the A1, but I do not know that for certain. I'm probably jumping to conclusions, but we don't want you to get knee deep into the body, after doing such a meticulous job on the mechanical portion of the build.

  4. #954
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    tailgate shorter than entire back panel section.. i guess ur right about the side panel the panel actually is short of the top curl on the side panels, (am guessing) but the way it is constructed is to cut the side panel clear and the new one slides under the cut and matches up and then welded and body putty in the side. it goes all the way up the cut to the seam where the thing is welded, cut that away and clear up the welds and then the new piece fits into the front housing where the seam is it is pretty heavy built. and the shore power indent will have to cut the old one out and patch it in and of course its the only one out there for sale...... but all in all the body parts are well built, go the wheel well and it is heavy built lots of work went into that, but replace heck of a lot better than piecing a whole bunch of pieces into the rusty wheel well....

    M38A1 BODY REBUILD 009.jpg

    they offer two back decks, one with the piece that extends from side to side where all the other stuff is welded to it, and it is also the back of the tool just not sure which one i will get or need and both are pricey big time,,, going to be a grand either way you look at it for both pieces back panel section and deck

    boxdeck 2.jpg deck.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-06-2018 at 12:24 AM.

  5. #955
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The side panel for a CJ, I don't think that the door opening has the deep recess like the A1 had. The picture included is of the lower section replacement panel. I had to add a piece above the panel where the side stiffener mounts.

    How bad is the floor, that you want to scrap the whole thing?
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  6. #956
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    PRETTY DAMN THIN, AND LOTS LOTS OF HOLES, way too many to try to fix.. one of the deck pieces requires additonal $75.00 to ship and that is the one with the piece that runs athwart side to side and. the other one is free, but not at that point got to expose the piece on there it looks pretty good

  7. #957
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If your riser is descent, save the $75.00 and apply it to something else.

    When I did the body work on the A1, the budget was fairly thin. We scowered the country side and came up with one doner for the driver's side floor board, with some various pieces to save for future use. A second body was found that yeilded more sheet metal pieces. The only parts purchased was the fuel tank well, the passenger floor board, the tool box front panel, and the tool box lid. Everything else was fabricated from bulk stock or scavenged from the two bodies. We did find a third complete A1 that was too good to cut up. All in all, there was enough material saved to actually build three complete bodies, two frames and axles. The only thing lacking for the extra heeps were the drive trains and seats.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 11-07-2018 at 07:34 AM.

  8. #958
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    pretty thing budget, i can relate to that.....
    the last two pieces that i will need will be close to a grand. the entire back end, is full of major holes and also dented, but cutting it out at the weld seams and removing the spot welds on the ramaining is probably the way to go. the deck area is the same. got as tarp on the frame/motor in time for some rain, but think i want to cover the rest up with a brand new tarp. used older one over motor and wheel, but dont want to take chances on any thing hurting what is done.
    new topic freakin snap on tools, they charged my credit card FIVE times for one piece, then when i call snap on they say contact your bank, told them it was not bank that sent the bills to the bank but snap on. I made myself so obnoxious to snap on that they called me last night and had a 3 way conversation with snap on/bank/me and they acknowledged it was a snap on screw up. if you buy from snap on at their website be cautious it dont work

  9. #959
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If the sheet metal isn't completely rotten, a few holes should be a lot easier to fix. Find a chunk of copper to act as a backer, then the metal will be less likely to warp. A little more time spent fixing your original metal would save you a bunch of money. I can understand the floor, because they tend to get thin.

    For future reference, look up your local Snap On dealer. They are independent owners, so they rely on your business. Check with your local auto shops to find out when the tool truck is scheduled to stop by.
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  10. #960
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Body is now in the garage and starting to remove spot welds on right side right at junction of fender to firewall. to remove em got to see em so grind a bit the counter punch and drill em out then separate

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