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Thread: 1951 Willys Pick Up

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The rotating assembly would be the crank shaft, connecting rods, pistons, and the valve train. Some machine shops will assemble everything to ensure proper fit, then others fit everything, and leave the parts out for the owner to assemble.
    The starter can turn alright without a load, but if there is a short in the windings, or the brushes are shot, the starter will not have enough umph to get the engine turning. Have it checked out by a starter rebuild shop, to at least have it checked.

    Also check the condition of the battery cables. You can check the resistance of the cables, to see if it is high. If so, the voltage drop can cause the starter to act up.
    Ok, I put in everything except the camshaft and valves. While assembling the crankshaft and pistons I would turn the crank every time I would tighten a main or rod bearing. no hang-ups there. I feel comfortable I assembled the engine correctly. Adjusted the valves like they should be.
    I replaced the battery cables. In fact, I'm probably one of Kaiser Willys best customers. There's not much I haven't replaced that didn't come from there and I've replaced about everything. Their the ones that overhauled my starter. There's a reputable shop in town I'm going to take my starter to, to see if it is working correctly.
    I did want to mention that I swapped out the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt. I understand it will work but you'll have to adjust the generator.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    So, we're Elders, huh?

    Everyone has to be someone ...

    Concur with the advice to get the starter checked out. Even if it spins with no-load, things get a lot harder to do with a new engine tied to the starter. Da' book says at no-load a starter will draw 70-amps. Now, that may sound like a lot.

    But, at stall - if the battery stays at 4-volts - it will draw .... drum roll please ... 400 amps! At that load even a slightly damaged brush or armature just won't work. Ditto Auto-Zone battery cables. At 19 degrees today my 6-volt battery on an engine with probably 2K miles on it cranked it to start it with no real effort. But - I did have to rebuild the starter as part of the resurrection. And, I did put on some serious battery cables..
    Thanks LarrBeard, That's the numbers I've been trying to find.

  3. #23
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    A local shop, which was highly recommend by the military vehicles preservation chapter, built a F134 for a M38A1. The engine was a turn key rebuild. It didn't run worth a crap. The bearings were all tight, the timing was off, and it leaked like a strainer. I trust my own eyes and feel. You have done it right!

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    A local shop, which was highly recommend by the military vehicles preservation chapter, built a F134 for a M38A1. The engine was a turn key rebuild. It didn't run worth a crap. The bearings were all tight, the timing was off, and it leaked like a strainer. I trust my own eyes and feel. You have done it right!
    My sintamins as well. I've said it before, I believe I have assembled this engine correctly. I just got through taking the starter off and hooked it to jumper cables. It would spin but a lot slower than I thought it should. Also it didn't seem like a strong spin. Didn't move when I hit the cable to it. I'm taking it to be tested tomorrow.
    I'm thinking this is my problem.

  5. #25
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Starter Issues

    " Didn't move when I hit the cable to it. ... "

    That's a hint - and a good one. That sucker should just about jump off the bench running unloaded.

  6. #26
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    " I did want to mention that I swapped out the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt. I understand it will work but you'll have to adjust the generator."

    Actually, the adjustment is in the voltage regulator, not the generator. IF you can find an 8-volt regulator, they are preciou$.

    Do you want to talk about how to tweak a 6-volt regulator to charge an 8-volt battery? It will have to regulate to about 10.1 volts. It's not hard to do, it just takes patience. You're not going to blow anything up (probably) and it can be undone if you want to go back to a 6-volt system. 8-volts are really hard on 6-volt lights, but if you're going to go to 12-volt, it may not matter anyway.

    We actually overhauled my starter twice. It was OK for a bit, but the old armature crapt out while we were trying to get the engine to run. (We did stress it BADLY.)

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    " I did want to mention that I swapped out the 6 volt battery with an 8 volt. I understand it will work but you'll have to adjust the generator."

    Actually, the adjustment is in the voltage regulator, not the generator. IF you can find an 8-volt regulator, they are preciou$.

    Do you want to talk about how to tweak a 6-volt regulator to charge an 8-volt battery? It will have to regulate to about 10.1 volts. It's not hard to do, it just takes patience. You're not going to blow anything up (probably) and it can be undone if you want to go back to a 6-volt system. 8-volts are really hard on 6-volt lights, but if you're going to go to 12-volt, it may not matter anyway.

    We actually overhauled my starter twice. It was OK for a bit, but the old armature crapt out while we were trying to get the engine to run. (We did stress it BADLY.)
    I would like to know how to tweak my regulator to use an 8 volt battery.
    Turns out my starter was binding up. I sent it back to Kaiser Willys. I'm waiting on what they say is the problem.
    Thanks.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    LarrBeard will be by in a bit to give you the best, no b.s. method of adjusting the regulator.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-16-2019 at 07:36 PM.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    LarrBeard will be by in a bit to give you the best, no b.s. method of adjusting the regulator.
    As always, I appreciate the info you guys give.
    Ok, here's another problem I just discovered yesterday. When I put the head on I couldn't find any clear cut way to install the head gasket or wither or not to use any sealant. I wound up putting the folded side up without any sealant. Yesterday I noticed water leaking out between the head and block. I followed the steps to tighten the head bolts. Even done it again a couple of times the next day. It even said when it gets to running temperature to recheck the head bolts and tighten again if needed. At this point, what would you guys do?
    At least I am learning something as I go along this journey. Even thou it is the school of hard knocks.

  10. #30
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    school of hard knocks. .....
    join the crowd

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