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Thread: 1951 Willys Pick Up

  1. #61
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The axles are just fine. They are both open differentials. An easy way to tell when on stands is that when you turn one tire by hand, the other side will rotate the opposite direction. Under power, only one tire will turn. A locking differential or limited slip will power both wheels. The front axle is rarely a locking differential, but can be a limited slip. When the front axle is locked, it is hard to steer, due to both wheels fighting to go the same speed. When you turn, one wheel travels faster then the other. On a non-power steering vehicle, having a front locker, is a good way to break a thumb if held inside of the steering wheel.

    The transmission. It sounds like there is some rust in the top end of the transmission. Pull the top cover off the transmission and inspect both the shift fork and the shift cane for rust. Since you can only find 2nd and 3rd gear, it sounds like the intermediate shaft is rusty as well. This will cause the gears to be stuck on the shaft. Without looking up the information, it seems by memory, that 2nd and reverse share the gear, so if it will not slide, you will not have reverse.

    The PCV valve on the side cover should be attached to the intake, and shouldn't be vented to the atmosphere. A little oil can be expected if there isn't a functional valve attached. With oil being within the compartment, a drop or few finding their way out wouldn't be surprising. Odds are, somewhere in history, someone thought the PCV system wasn't needed.

    The fuel line isn't sealing at the flair, or the flair is cracked. Plumber's tape will not do any good. Check the flair to ensure that it is the right angle for the fittings. Check the fittings for scared surfaces that will not allow the line to seal.

  2. #62
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The axles are just fine. They are both open differentials. An easy way to tell when on stands is that when you turn one tire by hand, the other side will rotate the opposite direction. Under power, only one tire will turn. A locking differential or limited slip will power both wheels. The front axle is rarely a locking differential, but can be a limited slip. When the front axle is locked, it is hard to steer, due to both wheels fighting to go the same speed. When you turn, one wheel travels faster then the other. On a non-power steering vehicle, having a front locker, is a good way to break a thumb if held inside of the steering wheel.

    The transmission. It sounds like there is some rust in the top end of the transmission. Pull the top cover off the transmission and inspect both the shift fork and the shift cane for rust. Since you can only find 2nd and 3rd gear, it sounds like the intermediate shaft is rusty as well. This will cause the gears to be stuck on the shaft. Without looking up the information, it seems by memory, that 2nd and reverse share the gear, so if it will not slide, you will not have reverse.

    The PCV valve on the side cover should be attached to the intake, and shouldn't be vented to the atmosphere. A little oil can be expected if there isn't a functional valve attached. With oil being within the compartment, a drop or few finding their way out wouldn't be surprising. Odds are, somewhere in history, someone thought the PCV system wasn't needed.

    The fuel line isn't sealing at the flair, or the flair is cracked. Plumber's tape will not do any good. Check the flair to ensure that it is the right angle for the fittings. Check the fittings for scared surfaces that will not allow the line to seal.
    I meant to thank you earlier for your reply. You were spot on concerning the top end of the transmission. The poppet (sp?) bearings were rusted and wouldn't let me change gears. I got it loose but now I need to change the bearings and springs.

  3. #63
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    No problem at all. It isn't that usual for a truck or wagon for the top end of the transmission to be rusty. The leading cause would be for water to make it's way down through the shifter. The open cab CJs have more issues with rust, but the closed cab of the trucks prevent rain from entering the transmission. One thing we all come to realize about Jeeps, there are never absolutes when it comes to problems.

  4. #64
    I'm getting ready to scrub down the paint on the truck and clear coat it. I priced out 2 liters of satin clear coat from an auto paint store for a thousand dollars. I thought that cant be right but it was. I've painted a few cars and it took me anywhere from a gallon to 5 Quarts. Since I'm not going to pay that much, I put on a few thin coats of a satin polyurethane on one of my rims to see how it would look. It looked just what I want.
    Ok, here's the thing. It says it's for wood. and no doubt it is. Has anyone ever tried using polyurethane over paint on an automobile? I'm sure it will yellow over time but I don't care about that. I'll probably be sandblasting the whole truck eventually anyway. Also it will be living in the basement 95% of the time out of the sun.
    Now I'm starting to get cold feet on the idea. I'm going to go ahead and do the other 4 rims with the poly but not sure about the body. I'm curious to see how long it will hold up.
    I could put on a lacquer but that's for indoors. I'm not sure how long that would last if at all.
    I guess my question is, what have any of you done outside of a full blown professional clear coat. Like I said, I'm just wanting to enjoy this truck for a few short years with the thought of someday fixing the body back to its original glory.
    As always, Thank you.

    I tried posting a picture of it but I'll never get the hang of this.
    Last edited by Tim..; 05-12-2019 at 09:20 AM.

  5. #65
    Ok, let's see if I was able to attach a photo.

    Well it's sideways but I can live with it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tim..; 05-12-2019 at 01:00 PM.

  6. #66
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The wheel looks great! Since you are not leaving the Jeep outside, in direct sunlight, the poly will be more than enough protection for the time frame you are planning. I removed all 6 layers of paint and some globbed on Bondo on our 2A. I used some left over rattle cans of Matt clear on the bare steel. That dose lasted a couple years before some surface rust started showing. I knocked the rust back down, and used a clear laquer to try it. I haven't had a chance to pull it out of the shed to see how it weathered the winter.

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