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Thread: 1951 Willys Pick Up

  1. #1

    1951 Willys Pick Up

    I've gotten the engine torn down for the most part and there's a bad build up on the cylinder walls. I'm not sure yet but there may be some pitting. My question is, what's the best way to remove the build up. It's the 4-134 engine and I'm not real sure what the build up is. Wither it's rust or burnt oil or a combination of both. I'm hoping I won't have to replace what looks like sleeves.

    Here's what it looked like when I pulled the head off.
    And of course the pistons. The rings are so filled up with build up there stuck in place.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    npot suire but if that is same engine as the one in the m38a1 i have a spare running engine

  3. #3
    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I found a couple of them on line just in case this engine is going to be more trouble than its worth.
    I'm trying to keep it as original as I can so I'm hoping I can get this one to work.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Tim:

    Since there are only 4 valves in the head, your engine is an F-134. One would think the flathead would be an F-head, but the "F" describes the path fuel and exhaust take through the valve path. The flathead is the "L" head.

    An engine that has sat this long needs to be hot tanked to clean out as much rust crud as you can. There are oil passages that, if they are blocked, will cause you a lot of trouble. Once you get it cleaned up, you can look at cylinder walls, do some measurements and figure out whether you can do a clean-up bore or even put in sleeves. Sleeves really aren't all that big a job.

    Make sure there are no internal cracks. If an engine freezes and "busts", the place it splits very often is in the gallery that runs down from the oil pump to the drive gear on the oil pump. My crankshaft had some little cracks at the flywheel flange - a little welding took care of them.

    It will go back together! I don't think a F-134 has every worn out beyond rebuilding. A 'new' long block is about $3400, so let that be a reference point for you. A complete rebuild on mine was about $3300.

    JEEP - an abbreviation for "Just Extract Every Penny".

    But, we love them.

  5. #5
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    tanked to clean out as much rust crud as you can.. UNBELIEVABLY GOOD ADVICE, LET THE PROS CLEAN THAT SUCKER OUT. not expensive but sure works
    i rebuilt my diesel on my sailboat and had it hot dipped and cleaned. all i can say is wow did it come out nice and clean, ready to do whatever, alll i had to do was have them rebore it to next size piston and then i rebuilt it, have ten thousand hours on it and it never looks back

  6. #6
    I talked to a highly recommend machine shop about hot tanking the block. After talking to them I'm going to go ahead and let them do all the machine work needing to be done. On the block and head. He was saying something about the crankshaft too. I can't remember what he said about it but it made since at the time.
    Now all I have to do is save up a little money. I guess I'll just work on areas that doesn't cost anything.
    Just got finished pressure washing 60 years of dirt and grease off it.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Sounds great, and when you get that puppy back time to paint it!!!!, yeah let em do the crank

  8. #8
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    It's looking better already. What I didn't see is encouraging - the metal mice didn't nibble away the bottom of the door. The rusty red sheen is really faded paint - not a thin coat of rust.

    What rear end does it have; Timken "clam shell - heavy duty" or more conventional Dana?

    What condition is the bed? If it only has rust at spot welds, there is a quick and relatively cheap way to fix that.

    The real mice had stuffed the bell housing on my truck full - and I mean FULL - of nests. It smelled like mouse even after several power washes.

    The machine shop will probably turn the main bearing and rod bearing surfaces on the crankshaft. A few thousandths off each cleans up any out-of-round and corrosion/pitting and makes things run a lot better when it all gets back together. Oversize bearings are standard items.

    And. oh by the way - there isn't any place that doesn't cost money.

  9. #9
    Here's a few pictures of what I have to work on. The drivers side floor pan might be able to patch since the metal around the rust holes seems to be sturdy. The passenger side will have to be replaced.
    While the bed isn't too bad it's probably a little worse than what the picture shows. There's a couple of holes in it but all in all, it's in pretty good shape.
    I'm not sure what would possess someone to abuse the dash the way they did. If you look on the steering column does anyone know what the hook is for? It's stationary with no movement to it at all.
    I don't know what kind of rearend it has. Maybe someone can identify it. Notice the big hole in the gas tank?
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    Last edited by Tim..; 04-10-2017 at 07:19 AM.

  10. #10
    I think this truck may have been used in some kind of business. You can just make out lettering on the doors.
    I don't know if the back bumper is factory or home made but I don't like it and it's coming off. At least the part that hangs down.
    The back fenders have a couple of stress cracks that shouldn't be too hard to repair.
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