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Thread: 1951 Willys Pick Up

  1. #11
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    A. Timken rear end, heavy duty - hard to find parts for. Open it up and look at it! (See pictures)

    B. All of those fenders had the same stress cracks.

    C. Aftermarket rear bumper. There was nothing on the rear end from the factory, but a lot of added hitches.

    D. There is a stub of a radio antenna on the left front. Someone may have cobbed a radio into the dash.

    E. The Hook? Maybe a hat rack?

    F.. Uhggg ... bed is rough.
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  2. #12
    I'm not sure if this question can be answered without seeing it in person or not. On my drive shaft it looks like it has small pit marks on it. Kind of like the texture of an orange. Is this something that I should replace or is this safe enough to put back on?
    No doubt others have run across this before.

  3. #13
    Well, Its been awhile since I've been on here. Mostly because I forgot my password. I've got my engine overhauled and put back in. Other then the normal machine shop doing what they do I put it back together. my problem now is today I tried starting it for the first time and with this 6 volt system it sounds like my fully charged new battery is dead. it does have a full charge. The transmission isn't hooked up to it so no drag from that. before I convert it to a 12 volt system do any of you guys have any things I could try before converting it? I'm no mechanic just somebody that likes working on old stuff. When putting to back together I would make sure the engine would turn whenever I put in any of the main or rod bearings. Not being a mechanic I'm not sure how much force it takes to turn over the engine. It didn't seem to tight to me but then again I don't know what to tight would be. Maybe a ground problem?

  4. #14
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Does it even turn over?
    It could be several things but if it didn't even turn over a little bit it sounds like a timing problem.
    You would have to check with one of the Elders here to find out TDC, the firing order and where the timing marks are, typically its on the cam and the crank. Like I said I'm not to familiar with the 4 cylinders but one of the Elders will know.
    Last edited by TJones; 02-02-2019 at 04:36 PM.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by TJones View Post
    Does it even turn over?
    Yes, very slowly. It sounds like it has a dead or close to dead battery.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Did the machine shop install the rotating assembly? Are the valves adjusted?
    Pull the spark plugs, then turn the engine over by hand. If the engine rolls over without hanging up through the whole cycle, (4 revolutions) then I would check the starter.
    The timing marks are on the engine side of the flywheel. There is a window in the bell housing above the starter that the marks can be seen.
    The driveshaft dimples will not hurt a thing.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Did the machine shop install the rotating assembly? Are the valves adjusted?
    Pull the spark plugs, then turn the engine over by hand. If the engine rolls over without hanging up through the whole cycle, (4 revolutions) then I would check the starter.
    The timing marks are on the engine side of the flywheel. There is a window in the bell housing above the starter that the marks can be seen.
    The driveshaft dimples will not hurt a thing.
    Thanks gmwillys for the reply. I'm not sure what the rotating assembly is but they did install the camshaft. The valves are adjusted. I can turn the engine over by hand without any hangups. If I pull the starter and touch the cables to it and it spins, will that let me know if the starter is good without a load on it?

  8. #18
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The rotating assembly would be the crank shaft, connecting rods, pistons, and the valve train. Some machine shops will assemble everything to ensure proper fit, then others fit everything, and leave the parts out for the owner to assemble.
    The starter can turn alright without a load, but if there is a short in the windings, or the brushes are shot, the starter will not have enough umph to get the engine turning. Have it checked out by a starter rebuild shop, to at least have it checked.

    Also check the condition of the battery cables. You can check the resistance of the cables, to see if it is high. If so, the voltage drop can cause the starter to act up.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-09-2019 at 04:26 PM.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Starter Issue

    So, we're Elders, huh?

    Everyone has to be someone ...

    Concur with the advice to get the starter checked out. Even if it spins with no-load, things get a lot harder to do with a new engine tied to the starter. Da' book says at no-load a starter will draw 70-amps. Now, that may sound like a lot.

    But, at stall - if the battery stays at 4-volts - it will draw .... drum roll please ... 400 amps! At that load even a slightly damaged brush or armature just won't work. Ditto Auto-Zone battery cables. At 19 degrees today my 6-volt battery on an engine with probably 2K miles on it cranked it to start it with no real effort. But - I did have to rebuild the starter as part of the resurrection. And, I did put on some serious battery cables..
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  10. #20
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Good battery cables make a huge difference.

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