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Thread: 63 Willys Wagon refresh

  1. #31
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The 180 Grit are the orange brushes, and the blue are a 120 grit, if I remember correctly. I use mostly the orange. The paint comes off in fine dust, so a dust mask or respirator will be needed, but a shot from the air nozzle, and your part is clean, and ready for prep sol and paint. The brushes will leave a good surface for the paint to bond to the metal, (just enough scratch). The brushes are hard on drills. The side load does tend to wear out bearings faster than normal. A cheap drill last as long as an expensive one. I usually get two to three complete Heeps per drill, depending if it was a military Jeep or civilian... Or how many coats of paint are to be removed.

  2. #32
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    That's why I like Harbor Freight.

    "Hey, your XXX broke and its only about Y months old".

    Keep your receipt and you never wear out a tool. Almost as good as Craftsman used to be. The only way you wore out a Craftsman was to lose it or get it stolen.

    But, never buy a Craftsman 1/2 inch box end wrench. They're too expensive to lose or loan out.

    Oh, by the way, Mike and Jon @ KWAS helped me figure out all of the matching parts (air horn, hoses, clamps, etc.) to put this project together. It's gonna look slap yo' momma' good......

  3. #33
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Good deal. I've been meaning to ask how the air cleaner project was going.

    Lowe's used to warranty their products, as long as you bought the item from them..... Now you have to dig through a file cabinet full of receipts to find the correct one. The extended warranty is worth it, as long as you don't burn through too many within that time. Harbor freight does have the best deal for warranty, and bang for the buck.

    Snap On and the others are not as good as well. No brands are truly all American made.

  4. #34
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    When you lifted the body how did you attach your hoist? I do not want to do any damage but I am on my own like you were. Any progress since you last pictures?

  5. #35
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    My rear valance panel was garbage, so it really didn't matter. If your sheet metal is good, I would add a spreader beam out side the valance, between the two legs of the chain. I ran a chain through the bumper reliefs and hooked into the body cross member. The engine hoist centered at the rear. It took some time to go back and forth from front to rear, cribbing as the body raised, but the whole process took a couple of hours. The engine and trans were still installed, so care had to be taken to clear the shifters.

    I have taken the summer to work on a addition to the ranch. The project is very near completion, so back to the wagon this fall/winter.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 09-24-2018 at 06:14 AM.

  6. #36
    Junior Member DTS_Q!!!'s Avatar
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    I just found your build, I will be reading with interest as I hope to own/build a wagon one day.

  7. #37
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I'm hoping that things slow down enough around here to start back in on it. DTS_Q!!!, Keep on the lookout, they are out there for sale. Stick to the local ads, and Craigslist. Folks on eBay want a fortune for piles of scrap.

  8. #38
    Junior Member DTS_Q!!!'s Avatar
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    gmwillys, I will keep looking. They are hard to come by here in S. FL.

  9. #39
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I would imagine that the sea air would disolve most any classic car down there. Keep us up to date of the progress of your search.

  10. #40
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I finally took some time to dive back into the wagon. This will be a bit of hit and miss, because of a lack of free time, but we will do our best to keep at it. After removing everything that didn't belong to the wagon, (various junk and pile-its) and a thorough sweeping out, it was time to revisit the rust. Now, truth be told, I'm on the fence about whether to purchase pre-bent floor boards or to fabricate my own. The floor itself is really fairly simple. Not but a few bends at the tunnel/rocker panel, and only two stiffener ribs going across. I have a 10' X 4' sheet of 18 gauge that I picked up for this project, and might as well use it. The piece from Kaisers is a quality piece, since I have used one of them previously. The biggest thing is coming off the cash for the piece when I can make my own for next to nothing. My long suffering Misses tells me I'm cheap constantly. In my mind, I would rather spend the money on the rocker support brackets, which are a lot more complex to replicate then the floor board.

    I was really surprised that the anti corrosion coating and undercoating was effective on the underside of the body. There is no sign of rust starting from the underside through to the upper side. The down side is that the rust started on the top side and worked its way down. Road salt and water sat on the floorboards and finally eat through. The underside looks pretty good until you remove the undercoating and coating. Then you can see daylight. The worst part is the inside of the tool box section, that is covered by the seat deck. It is an out of the way place for rodents to make a condo in there, this accelerated the damage done to the floor there.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 01-28-2019 at 02:02 PM.

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