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Thread: 63 Willys Wagon refresh

  1. #71
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Hopefully this project won't become an artificial reef.

    Could be worse.....
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-19-2019 at 01:24 PM.

  2. #72
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Willys America has a fire wall heat and sound insulator that looks like it should really kill a bunch of heat and noise from up in the engine room. On hot summer days that little F-134 in the '48 seems to dump as much heat back to the cab as it throws out through the radiator.

  3. #73
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I was able to save the original firewall insulation, but am toying with the idea of installing the Dynamat behind the insulation, to keep with the original look. I don't want to spoil the look of the outside of the firewall with insulation, within the engine compartment. The biggest area of concern would be under the floor. I don't want to detract from the look of the steel floor and the oak runners. My only choice would be to apply the Dynamat to the underside of the body. A Line-X application would be a better solution for the exterior floor, and the dollars and sense would be comparable to the true Dynamat application. I foresee the application of both the Dynamat for the interior doors, roof and quarter panels, then the Line-X for the environmentally exposed underneath.

    One may ask to why I am considering to go this route? Well, lets review the overall plan for the Heep. The wagon will be an everyday capable all season driver. It was already converted over to a SBC V8 before purchased 30 years ago. The engine will be either upgraded to a gen IV SBC L96 364 C.I. plug and play engine, or I'll rebuild the tired 350 and throw on a stand alone fuel injection system. The remainder of the drive train remains the original axles/T-case/transmission, in which they will remain for now. The future would bring some upgraded, one piece axles, and a higher road gear. The transmission will stay, but an overdrive would be added to the T-case. Tires would remain close to a stock size, because I'm not getting any younger, and am too fat to jump into any vehicle. As far as the climate control, I am not an A/C guy when driving, especially with the wing windows, cowl scoop, doors and rear seat sliders open. f it gets really warm, the upper tailgate can be opened as well..... Just wait for the hatch to come crashing down when galloping over railroad tracks.


    http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-an...ion/dynaliner/

    http://www.linex.com/protective-coat...ty-and-defense

  4. #74
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    It's a Plan

    It sounds like a pretty well thought out plan and you have the ability to execute it.

    As the Old Gunny said;
    "Everyone has a plan until those first rounds go 'snap' over your head."

  5. #75
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    We have good practice at maintaining things that get shot at. It's not the rounds overhead, but the ones that lurk under the roadway that make for a bad day.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsWXFJxYp8U

  6. #76
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Today was a good day to see what could be salvaged from the removed floorboard.
    I also decided to hang the driver's door to ensure that the door gaps are staying where they need to be. It ended up being a good plan, because the cowl relaxed a 1/4". It's shored up now.
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  7. #77
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Storms are starting to roll through, and my poor viscous guard pup wasn't happy. She wasn't feeling good this afternoon anyway. Then my shadow wasn't to happy sharing her garage.
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  8. #78
    Looking good gmwillys. I'm going to have to replace the right floor pan soon. I should probably replace both of them but the left side is a lot better. Still trying to figure out how to weld on thin meatal. The little welder I got at Harbor Freight wants to burn through the metal. I see more practice welding in the near future.

  9. #79
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Tim,

    Sheet metal isn't as hard as one may think. I run a Miller 110VAC welder, with .035 solid wire, and 25% Argon gas. I like running the thicker wire for filling gaps and ground out rust holes. Old sheet metal withstands heat much better than modern steel, and a whole lot better than the foreign made steel. I can set the heat much higher, with a slower wire speed then stitching in a newer floor pan. When you do weld in a floor pan, focus your heat on the original steel, and draw in the new steel into your puddle. Bounce around a lot, to prevent from causing wrinkles.
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  10. #80
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I hope all is well with you and your family after the tornado swept through Alabama GM.

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