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Thread: The Frankenjeep

  1. #61
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    I discovered emilitary manuals when I was trying to fix an electrical problem on one of the M1008 trucks we have at the fire department. None of the local shops knew what to do mostly because no one understood it’s 24 volt for starting and everthing else is 12 volt. They all worked off the assumption it was a standard 12 volt diesel pickup or the whole thing was wired for 24 volt and had connected the lightbars and radio in a way that constantly drained one or both batteries. Last year we added an M35 as a brush truck so I downloaded the manuals for it and, on a whim, I grabbed the Jeep manuals while I was at it. I got an amazing amount of information for very little money although some of the scans missed a letter here and there.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  2. #62
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    I finally disassembled the axles. It was a bit of a puzzle having to twist and turn them just right to take apart. The one I was worried about with the corroded area where the differential seal rides is actually the better of the two. The newer looking (left) one that felt like had sand in the bearings had a broken bearing cage and is worn pretty bad on the axle side. The threads had been cut off the right axle. I am not sure what that’s about. I am considering the Spicer upgrade to replace the left axle and a sleeve (as advised in another thread) and overhaul kit for the right but I may opt to replace both so they match and the ease of maintenance.

    Is there anything I should know going into the upgrade? Anything else need replaced or modified to install the new style axles on either side?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  3. #63
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    They will go right in Jeff. Threads cut off on the right axle? Do you have a picture of that?

  4. #64
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    Here is a picture of both. I hate taking pictures and posting them with the phone. They never post oriented the way they were taken.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  5. #65
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Had to see that to believe it! That stub shaft is hardened. That took some work. I think someone has come up with a combination of "stuff" and got it to work in your axle. At first I thought it was a hacked up front wheel drive shaft.

    On the early CJ's the "CV" style shaft was retained by a nut and lock washer instead of a snap ring and it was shimmed for proper end play. Early in the CJ3A the design was changed to "float" in the hub and no shimming was required. It looks like someone took it upon themselves to turn the shaft you have into a "floater" so to speak! In any event if using the Spicer style joints and shafts you really don't even need the snap ring at the hub. The shaft floats against the bushing in the hub and the cross pin in the differential.

    I would discard that stuff.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-26-2021 at 08:51 AM.

  6. #66
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    Thanks for the info. It got me off the fence and I have ordered both axles from Kaiser. Unfortunately, the right side is back ordered. It wasn’t a surprise because every website I checked that shows stock level were “out of stock”. I also ordered what I need to put the transfer case back together.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  7. #67
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51 CJ3 View Post
    Here is a picture of both. I hate taking pictures and posting them with the phone. They never post oriented the way they were taken.
    My phone does the same thing CJ.
    So I always email the pictures to myself then open them on my pc so I can orient them in the proper way I took the picture then I save them in a folder I named “The Money Pit”
    Then I post all pictures from my pc using The Money Pit folder , just typing I do from phone mostly.
    Last edited by TJones; 05-27-2021 at 04:18 AM.

  8. #68
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    Looking at another thread got me thinking about my mess. My transmission, transfer case and front axle all had water damage (corrosion). The transmission and transfer case are getting new internal everything. Usually I am a “fix it while I am in there” guy but money has become an issue so I am thinking about skimping on the front axle and not replacing the ring and pinion. Not seeing much wear, just corrosion. The plan is to use this jeep as a daily driver. It has manual hubs and won’t see a lot of trail use. What trail use it does see won’t be hard. If it was the rear end it wouldn’t be a question because of the high usage but the front end won’t see the daily stress rolling around in 2wd. Is this line of thinking in error?
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  9. #69
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    No Jeff your thinking is good. Look the ring and pinion over and if there are any spots where the corrosion has made a sharp edge deep enough to expose the softer core of the tooth, dress it smooth with a tiny grinding wheel. The idea is you don't want the gear teeth to begin chipping. In my days I have tested in the lab, and run gears, that had some of the profile missing. Sometimes it was corrosion and sometimes it was from chipped teeth where exploded parts went thorough the gear teeth. Noise is the biggest issue. Corrosion in the gear pattern area will cause noise and of course will wear faster.

    Now by the book, any damage and replace. In real life it is not always necessary. A good idea of course but not always feasible. The gear sets are getting harder to find for the fronts. You may have to "run what you brung". The front gears in mine are not perfect.

  10. #70
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    Is there an economical differential case spreader for the Dana 25? I know it can be reassembled without a spreader but would like to have one anyway. Everything I have seen online is for the 30 and newer.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

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