Usually, there is a ballast resistor that drops the voltage down before it gets to the coil. With that being said, a twelve volt coil can handle full voltage for a long time. I never ran a ballast resistor on the Dodge points distributors that I used to run demolition derbies with, and had no problems. Hook your twelve volt source to the positive side of the coil with a toggle switch, (to kill power) then power to the starter. That's all you need to start. It doesn't appear that Kaiser ran a Ford style external solenoid for the starter, so that will keep things simple. The following is a link to a good source of wiring diagrams; http://www.jeepsurreygala.com/?page_id=1377
The picture above was of an M38A1 that was fairly well roached out as far as the floors were concerned. The body could not be removed from the frame because there was only a small patch of metal holding the cowl to the rest of the tub. The braces were 1" square tubing, welded to flat bar stock onto the forward face of the fender well, (towards the top). I added some kickers going down to the floor riser, to keep the brace stable at the rear. There was another tab welded to the other end of the brace, but drilled a hole for mounting to the dash panel. Then there was a cross brace added about six inches from the dash to make rigid. After the driver's side floor was repaired, then I was able to remove the tub from the frame. With one good floor pan, the body was stable enough to be turned on its side, so that the passenger floor board could be cut out from underneath the tool box.
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