Page 27 of 33 FirstFirst ... 172526272829 ... LastLast
Results 261 to 270 of 327

Thread: New to the Forum

  1. #261
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    242
    Yes it is!!
    Thanks bmorgil for your advice, I’m impressed with it...

  2. #262
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,168
    Oooohhhh ...


    AWWhhhhhhhh ... !

  3. #263
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    242
    Getting closer 4558DDD3-897D-47B1-9681-6FF5BA33F614.jpg

    Put her on the Dyno tonight and fired it up to set the timing and air/fuel mixture. Got it all set and going to let it cool down tonight and run again tomorrow then she’ll be ready to stuff in the frame.

  4. #264
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    423
    Wise choice on the dyno. Best way to guarantee a good motor.

  5. #265
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    242
    Thanks bmorgil, the guy doing the motor won’t let anything out of his shop until it sits on the Dyno...
    It’s just been a while getting him to get to it.
    Being a drag racer you’ve probably heard of him “Pro Car Associates”
    Last edited by TJones; 08-13-2019 at 06:34 PM.

  6. #266
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    423
    First class place TJones. I agree with his philosiphy 100%. When you build champion stuff, you need that dyno assurance. The Dyno is the best money I ever spent on a motor. You know exactly what will happen when you start it up, after all the work of getting it in.

  7. #267
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    1,726
    Good deal! What numbers did she pull? You'll be making noise at the shop in no time.

    We put 100% of our serviced power packs across the Dyno. A static, no load run doesn't ensure a good plant, but the Dyno tells the tale. Often times, a cracked head or a blown head gasket doesn't show on a pre-run, (no load) but a minute at full load, and the overflow bottle pooches out and becomes a gyser. The Dyno is set up to run what we call a FUPP, (full up power pack). The complete set up includes the trans, hydraulic manifolds, the rads, and coolers. It's a neat set up, and pretty effective.

  8. #268
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    242
    He really hasn’t put it under a load yet to see what it’s putting out, he just wanted it to go through a heat up cycle “175-185” and get the air/fuel numbers where need to be with the Sniper FI system and let it cool down overnight. Today will be the day he puts it under a load and see where the numbers come in. The thing that bothers me is it has a lot of ring blow bye and it’s making a lot of smoke out of the valve cover vents. The V-6s have a tendency to have some blow bye anyway but not as much as this one does being it was a remaned long block from Fraser in Michigan. He said the rings may seat in after it cools down and with some hours on it, I guess we’ll see today if not we’ll pull it apart and see what’s going on.

  9. #269
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    1,726
    Did you use stock style pistons? I ask because I had a neighbor whom had a '70 442 W-30, and his buddy the drag racer talked him into using light weight pistons for his engine build. The first summer of running, and it was drinking oil rather fast. Come to find out that the pistons were single compression ring, good for drag racing pistons. They couldn't handle the up and down RPM of everyday driving, so there was a ton of blow by after a short summer season.

    If you went with a stock style of piston, then he may of used some good Moly rings. They take a couple of heat cycles to seat themselves in good. If engine builder isn't sweating, then you shouldn't either. It will be just fine.

  10. #270
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    423
    TJones, without question run a leak down right now. You will want to compare the percentage after the next pull. There will be good information there. It should seal up to less than 3% that's for sure. If there is something wrong and its leaking big right now (which it should not be), it is going to stick out on a leak down. You will hear the air coming past the pistons or heaven forbid, elsewhere. If it is freshly rebuilt and not fired, 10% is about the norm. A top quality racing motor will consistently leak down at 1% on a fresh motor right off the break in dyno. At 3% the big boys re-ring them. I personally don't like to get near 10% but, some do. I think at 10% power is down significantly and they start to consume and dirty the oil. Most would agree when it goes over 10% it is worn out. Don't put it in if it won't seal on the dyno.

    I always leaked down motors after the Dyno. You know if you have a "sweet one" or an ok one. You also have some numbers to compare at a later date should it start behaving badly.

    Since its all out there naked, I used to employ a very nice little trick. Plug every hole in the motor. Hook (rig up) an air line with a regulator on to the breather. Fill the crankcase with 5 or so psi of air. It needs to "try" to hold it in the crankcase. You will hear it hissing past the ring gaps. Any where else, if you have the motor well plugged, is an oil leak. I can tell you it is sweet when you get it to hold a little air. After you put it all together and drive it around, there will be no drips on the floor. And you will know this ahead of time!

    Didn't mean to ramble TJ but, you have a good way to gather some info there, and to ease your mind. The dyno operator should be used to this procedure. No top builder should let a motor go out the door without knowing exactly how each cylinder leaked, after and even during break in.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •