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  1. #1
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    New to the Forum

    Hi All
    I am in the middle of rebuilding a 1952 M38 for a show vehicle and I have seen older bodies that didn't have a tailgate on them, they just had a solid piece of steel across the back in lieu of a tailgate.
    Does anyone know the year and model of that paticular one I am talking about and will it fit onto my frame?
    This was a barn find for $150.00.
    It had a Buick 225 odd-fire that I took out and I'm going to replace it with a 252 even-fire that is getting built by a local engine builder.
    Someone put power steering on it and a Warn overdrive to help compensate for the 538 gears it came with.
    I just finished putting 11" brakes off a 64 Jeep Pickup to help the Ole girl get stopped better than the factory 9" brakes.
    It has turned into a long project but I have made up my mind to do it right or dont do it at all.
    As soon as the motor is finished I can start moving forward on installing the body and hopefully have it finished up by the time summer gets here to northeast Ohio.
    I just hope and pray if my wife wants to ever sell it one day after I am gone that she doesn't sell it for "What I have been telling her it is costing"
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    Last edited by TJones; 04-09-2018 at 01:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Welcome. You are definitely doing it right, no doubt about it.

    The M38A1, (1952-1971) didn't have a tailgate. The A1 is the predecessor to the CJ5, so it has a lot of the same characteristics that the CJ5 had starting in 1955. The mounts will be close to your frame. The frame you have appears to be a Civilian frame, because the machine gun pedestal mount is missing on the first rear cross member. The plate would sandwich between the cross member and the cargo floor, to provide a solid mounting surface for the machine gun. All military Jeeps from WWII on up had this plate from the factory. With that being said, the frame you have is still a great foundation to your build.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info., but i was wanting to stay with the flat fender look something like the pictures I have attached.
    And the orange is the color my Bride has picked out.
    Will a M38A1 tub match up with the flat fenders or not?
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  4. #4
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Flat fenders do have more character in my opinion. I would go with staying with the M38 style of body, then try and splice together the two body designs. My long suffering misses has a love affair with orange. When it came time to paint our bedroom, she picked out an shade of orange. We compromised with Chevrolet Hugger orange. It didn't turn out half bad.

  5. #5
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I agree with you on the M38 style body.
    I own a Excavating Company and my body guy and I are going to do some horse trading when it comes time to paint, he has a deep orange in mind with a pearl tint and is all pumped up to get it on my body when I decide which one i am getting.
    Have you ever heard of or dealt with Jay at "Willys Overland Motors" in Toledo,Ohio on his Repli-Tub replacement body's?
    Here is the website www.willysoverland.com
    I understrand there is only 1 company that mass produces a replacement steel body for Jeep's and it comes from the Phillipines and the fitment is terrible, but Jay guarantees (after he reworks it) to bolt on in less than an hour.
    I kinda want to stick with steel due to the fact I am going to put swing pedals,tilt wheel and other add-ons and I want to be able to weld or cut on it as I need too, versus a stainless,alluminum or fiberglass body that will have corrosion and or strength issue's associated with them.
    What are your thoughts on this and do you have any other steel body replacement suggestions?
    I am looking for someone that makes a replacement steel body that doesn't have any dash, firewall or floorpan holes cut in it so I don't have to patch up and re-drill new one's where I need them, but as I am finding out that is close to impossible to find one.
    Last edited by TJones; 04-10-2018 at 09:46 AM.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The Replitubs are the only way to go. It is correct that they take the Pilipino bodies and correct the flaws. I would contact Jay and see if the tubs come in plain, without the floor modifications done for pedals. Then that might save you a buck or to on the cost of their Replitub.

  7. #7
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I have been talking to Jay for a year or so and he said he would do the rework and not cut any new holes in a 2A or 3A and sell it to me for $3,800.00 cash and I thought that was a pretty good deal.
    He had one set aside for me and had to sell it a couple days later but said it only takes a week to get a another in, that was few weeks ago.
    Do you have any suggestions on a tilt wheel that would bolt up fairly simple and swing pedals (hydraulic clutch and daul master cylinder) the same?
    Advance Adapters has a big selection I see, but what about anyone else that you may know of or maybe even something from Pull Apart (not sure if you have any of those around you but they are handy sometimes)?
    I am kind of waiting on my motor to get finished so I can stuff it and the tranny and TC in then start with the body assembly, extra stuff, and wiring ect.
    My thoughts are to get everything in and fitted in place, then pull the body off and have it all painted off the frame by itself underside and all.
    Speaking of motor's how familiar are you with a Buick 252 V6?
    The guy building my motor use to work for GM and helped design/develop the new ZL1 motor out today for the new Camaro's and he's claiming with a Holley Sniper fuel injection, headers and a few more add on items on my 252 V6 he claims he will get 300 HP out of it on his dyno.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That is a good deal in my opinion. Then you have a new tub, and a blank canvas for your build.

    I have a early Wagoneer ('65-'68) tilt wheel in my wagon. It is fairly compact and has a bit of Jeep style with the steering wheel. I would look at some Iditit steering columns, because they carry several different options for your needs.

    https://www.ididitinc.com/

    On the brake and clutch pedals, I would look around at some Wilwood brake and clutch set ups;

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...SABEgI7r_D_BwE

    The Buick V-6 is a standard go to for Jeep performance. 300 HP is the top end of the envelope, but with the advent of tunable fuel injection, I can see it happenenig without too much trouble. The compact size makes it an ideal power plant for the CJs.

  9. #9
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Thank You GMWillys!!!
    It appears from reading your responses to the questions you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to jeeps.
    I am sure I’ll be back when things get moving along with my project.
    I’ll keep you up dated with photos as it moves forward.
    Thanks again

  10. #10
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    No problem, Google helps out some too. We look forward to watching your progress. I'm sure with the weather breaking, you'll be busy doing dirt work. From the pictures, it looks like you have some good equipment to work with.

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