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  1. #701
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    We’ll back to Summit for a water pump.
    Some idiot cut the alignment pin off the front of the water pump,why???who knows???
    I do know 1 thing it’s IMPOSSIBLE to put the pulley,spacer and blade on then try to line 4 screws on to hold it with out taking the grill out then the radiator !!!
    Sooooo after 2 hours of jerking with that and getting it all together with a 1” spacer we find out the fan is only 1/8 of an inch from the bottom radiator tank, much to close if the motor even coughs.
    Soooo while I have it out a new water pump WITH the alignment pin sticking out the front JIC it ever needs replaced by the Grand Kids one day 15 years down the road
    Another reason to replace it (with a 1/2” spacer) is bc when we ran it the pulley wobbled a little and with that “buzz saw” of a blade we put on it may take the bearing out one day (sooner that later) and that would be ugly and it’s wide open right now.
    I did talk to a guy last night that wants to horse trade a custom built aluminum shroud for some fill dirt at his house!!!!
    If it needs one after we get it all together...
    Last edited by TJones; 06-30-2020 at 04:18 AM.

  2. #702
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Get the backhoe going TJ you really should have one. The tighter it fits the better.

  3. #703
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Agreed. Fill dirt and some fuel is a small price to pay for a custom shroud.

  4. #704
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    GREAT NEWS!!!
    Got it all back together and the thermostat opened at 162 it went to 185 then I turned on the electric fan, it went to 175 and hovered between 175 and 185 with water in it.
    Has anybody ever used Evans Waterless Antifreeze, they say it runs 30-40 degrees cooler than anything else?
    The only set back it’s $48.00 a gallon, not like I’m filling a series 60 Detroit just checking.
    Last edited by TJones; 06-30-2020 at 06:10 PM.

  5. #705
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I do agree on a shroud and more than likely it will happen, just want to keep it cool enough to get home.

  6. #706
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Agreed. Fill dirt and some fuel is a small price to pay for a custom shroud.
    I agree I have 14,000 yards at my shop that people brought me and I sell, when it empties I fill it up again!!!

  7. #707
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Fans and Thermostats

    "Got it all back together and the thermostat opened at 162 it went to 185"

    If you have ever had a thermostat stick, gauge pinned at max hot and then dump half the coolant all over the engine bay - you are always watchful as the engine heats up.

    The F-134 has the temp sensor at the passenger side, rear of the engine. The thermostat is up front where some cooling air starts flowing when you fire up. The sensor is in a hotter area than the thermostat and it takes the thermostat a while to figure out that things are hot back there.

    The best idea is to let the truck idle for about 10 minutes to let things warm up gradually. If you do this, you get an overshoot, but only up to maybe 175 or 180 before the thermostat opens.

    But, if you have to get in and go, and go hard, you can drive the back end of the engine up to about 200 before the thermostat opens up. I have developed a "cheat" if I can't get a gradual warmup - I turn on the heater. The heater port on the water pump will push hot water through the heater and the heater acts like a little auxiliary radiator.

    I'm a wimp, I don't stress things that don't have to be stressed.

  8. #708
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    gmwillys and I have both used "wetting agents" to try to reduce water temperature. It does indeed lower temps a bit. 30 to 40 degrees however is quite a stretch. In circle track you see a few deg maybe. It may be a help but definitely not an answer. I can tell you from a straight up cooling transfer, nothing beats plain water. A few things make it very difficult to to run plain water. Corrosion and boiling point are the primary. You already have a good deal of additive in the Anti-Freeze. Adding more actually decreases the amount of water which in turn decreases the ability of the system to absorb heat. So if you are running plain water that is as good as it gets as long as it doesn't boil. As you add things the coefficient goes down from pure water. A "surfactant" aids in the ability of the water to "adhere" for lack of a better term to the surfaces of hot areas. It therefore may reduce the temperature at some critical spots like the combustion chamber. This allows a little more room before detonation and hence, a little more power, if you tune for it. This is on the edge stuff. Not for our street racers. I don't think you need to worry. If you can control the temp at idle with the fan and no shroud, I believe you are real good. As soon as the shroud is in place you should not have any "idling in the parade" issues.

  9. #709
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I agree with Bmorgil. In some derbies, the horse tracks wouldn't allow us to use antifreeze to keep from poisoning the race horses. Chevy and Chryslers can take a lot of heat and be alright.... As far as derbies go, (I ran a 500 cfm Holley 2 barrel on all the Chryslers, and it was so warped at the base you had to use two base gaskets). We don't even run a temp gage.

  10. #710
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Brining the Bish Home tomorrow !!

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