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Thread: '46 CJ2A Parts Runner

  1. #51
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    On a roll now gm! I like the pedal fix. Excellent idea.

  2. #52
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Barnyard engineering at its finest

    I'm going to let the photos do the talking on this throttle linkage and Rube Goldberg return spring set up. It worked, but sure wasn't pretty.
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  3. #53
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Working defeats beauty!

  4. #54
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    It is amazing how we get to the same topic at the same time. I just asked OkieMark about a throttle spring on an F-134!

  5. #55
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The throttle springs are the same, just different on the 134F. I neglected to share a picture of the end product. I didn't use the spring mount that came with the spring because it was longer then the original. I liked the more tension on the spring that the original offered.

    Today I was able to get out in the garage for a while. The park brake is installed and resealed. The brake is adjusted, and the cable is run up to the dash. The speedo cable is replaced and hooked up. The return spring for the park brake may be bass awkward, but that can be switched around with little effort.
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  6. #56
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Awesome. That park brake is worth bookmarking.

  7. #57
    Great skills gmwillys! It's a pleasure to watch your work.

  8. #58
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    When I get some time, I'll post some more on the 2A. I have managed to get it back to road worthiness, then a set back reared its head. Not a big deal, but have to go back through the service brakes. I am figuring that one of the eccentric washers has slipped and not holding the shoe in place. At road speed, when the brakes are applied, she cuts hard to the right. Could be the Crown wheel cylinder is hanging up too, so there will be some trouble shooting involved. It may be a good time to install a check valve in line as well that retains some fluid to keep from having to pump the brake pedal to achieve good braking force. More to follow.

    I did install a new horn button, and the photos are included. Then after that, I had to adjust the horn for the proper Jeep sound. It started off as a muffled underwater dieing sheep sound, so that had to have some attention. A 11/32 ignition wrench and a flat screwdriver was all it takes. Now she sounds proper, and loud to boot.

    The last picture is of a M38 found out in the wild. It was set up in front of a too numerous to mention rust and junk shop that we passed by this morning to go one of the local flea markets. I didn't ask if it was for sale, but it is complete and appeared to run. The body is pretty far gone, but not too far.... I don't need any more projects.
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  9. #59
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    How does one adjust a horn? I've heard about the proper sound but didn't know you could achieve it, just thought your horn was right or not right. Glad you are back on the road. Worried about that braking you mentioned, hope it's works out

  10. #60
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The horn sound! I had to go online and I found a web site that gives you the correct sound. As correct as you can get through your computer. Anyway, the adjusting screw was gone on mine so I had to start from scratch. With 12 volts on a 6 volt horn it is a loud one.

    gm if you are pumping it a few to get the pedal, I am thinking your diagnosis of wheel cylinder is a logical choice. The stuck piston could be causing you to pump it to make up the volume.

    Now that picture... a peek at a catalog entry perhaps?

    Jeep sounds. https://cj3b.info/Horn.html
    Last edited by bmorgil; 09-20-2020 at 03:28 PM.

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