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Thread: CJ-3A First Willys

  1. #31
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    Ohhh private pond catfish! You gotta eat them monsters!

    OK that sets the plan. I will paint the body and parts off, and lift the finished tub over the column.

    The Mike's at KW are the best! Everyone there is super. I have had a great deal of success with the project because of their company. I gave Mike Viola a hard time about the free tee shirt offer. He responded with some nice SWAG!

  2. #32
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    KWAS @ Toledo Jeep Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    OK that sets the plan. I will paint the body and parts off, and lift the finished tub over the column.

    The Mike's at KW are the best! Everyone there is super.
    I asked Mike Meditz if KWAS was coming to Toledo. He said they were sponsoring, but not attending. Being the splendid gentleman I am, I told him to just send me a check and I'd buy refreshments for all the guys.

    I'm still waiting ...

  3. #33
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    You need to show up with a bunch of cool stuff from KW! You will be inside with a star of the show for sure! That truck would look good setting in the Seagate Center with a bunch of KW stuff in the back!

    I thought for sure KW would send someone. I think this is as big of a Jeep event as it gets.

  4. #34
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    The Motor fires, The Water Pump cries

    OK so I tidied up, filled the radiator and, water leaking in a steady stream from the water pump shaft. The pump is the original. I was lucky to find some instructions that came with a nice rebuild kit. It had the correct disassembly procedure and, it went smoothly. I milled the seal boss flat and it seemed to all look good. I did read somewhere that after rebuilding the pump it needed "run in" to fully seal. I read it would drip for a bit.

    So I hooked up a fuel line, and squirted some fuel in the mixer. It fired immediately! Ran out of fuel quickly. Another squirt and it came right back and stayed with it. It was running very good and POURING coolant all over under the pump. I bet I lost 2 quarts in a minute.

    Shut er' down, drained the coolant, pulled the pump. It looks great, of course. Waiting for parts again! New pump this time. I was really wanting to keep the original. I am not sure why it is leaking so severely. Well why I wait for the pump, I am rounding up the boy's to lift the body tub on for the first fit.

  5. #35
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    [QUOTE I was really wanting to keep the original. I am not sure why it is leaking so severely. Well why I wait for the pump, I am rounding up the boy's to lift the body tub on for the first fit.[/QUOTE]

    A. I resisted the urge to rebuild the "original" pump on the F-134 when we did the deed. Your story makes me think I really did the right thing. (The new pump hasn't dripped a drop....).

    B. In a similar vein, I decided to use my original head/parking light switch and circuit breaker. I wanted to keep as much original as I could (and I was a little cheap...). Now, two+ years afterwards, that wasn't the best choice. I was dabbling around under the dash a while back and just for gits and shiggles I measured electrical system voltage - running and charge rate settled out - about 7.3 volts - good enough.

    I turned on the headlights and I only get 6.8 or 6.9 volts out of the switch. As it turns out, even though the meter says "closed", the plating on the contacts has probably oxidized or disappeared and under the 10-amp or so headlight load, I get more voltage drop that I should. I thought my headlights were a bit dimmer than I remembered, but then I have a lot older eyes than I did 39 years ago when I put it away.

    So - the takeaway from this is don't be as cheap or stubborn as I was - buy a new switch. I don't drive much at night, but when I do, my work around is a short clip lead around the switch contacts to bypass the deteriorated contacts. It does make a difference in brightness. I have a friend at Grote, the LED light people, and I've told him if they would make a replacement LED headlight for us 6-volt people they would be even richer than they are.

    C. As for rounding up the boys - depending on age - either Pizza or Beer make the recruiting easier.

  6. #36
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    CRAP! I forgot about the negotiating "Pizza and Beer"! Fixing that right now.

    I totally agree with your don't cheap out comment. I have already had to go back and redo a bad choice.

  7. #37
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I'll be in line to buy the 6 volt LED lights when they become available.

    My crotchety self, there isn't enough pizza or beer to be had. That's why I have to figure things out on how to do things by myself. It's a good mental exercise in Barnyard Engineering if nothing else.
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  8. #38
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    6 Volt H4 headlights

    You are resourceful for sure!

    This is interesting on the 6 volt LED H4 headlights. http://forum.porsche356registry.org/...ic.php?t=37564
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-30-2019 at 06:58 PM.

  9. #39
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Necessity leads to innovation.

    I would like to get the headlights like TJones has on his project, with the integrated turn signals, but in 6 volt.

  10. #40
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    What mounts for the tops

    I am having a tough time figuring out which top bow brackets came from the factory on my CJ3A. My body kit has none. I didn't want to weld anything on that didn't come stock.

    I am fond of the M38 style. It has a bracket outside the body tub over the tire. I don't think that came on CJ's however. I want to have shade from the sun, but I am not interested in a full top with doors. If I had a roll bar I would just use a bikini top. I am not sure what to do for a sun top. A faux roll bar is out. Any ideas?

    The boy's picked up the tub like it was paper. Lifted it over the steer column and set it right down. Oh to be young again! The trial fit begins. It looks to me like it is pretty darn close. I am not seeing some of the "doesn't fit" horror stories yet. The radiator and shroud worked out well. I had to space the radiator out 1/2 inch and, some custom mounts for the shroud. I had to cut the shroud on the bottom and around the alternator. The 1/2 " spacer caused the shroud to get too close. All good though. Minor cutting and, you can't see it!
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