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Thread: CJ-3A First Willys

  1. #101
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    There isn't a lot in there to go wrong. In what shape is that little bronze/brass bushing that supports the end of the shaft out past the gear. If that was wallowed out, the end of the shaft might be wiggling a bit...

    I do know there are some pretty stiff springs in that Bendix and a lot of warnings about taking one apart.

  2. #102
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Starter Grinding

    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It works flawlessly sometimes, and sometimes it crashes into the ring gear and does not engage. When it works its great. When it doesn't it is an awful crash of gears.

    I know very little about the starter. I sent the original off to KW. They rebuilt it and returned it. If there are any adjustments, I didn't make any. I guess it time to do a "deep dive" into how the starter works! I have read there appears to be an adjustment on the switch. I don't know anything about it yet.

    Here is probably a lot more than you thought you wanted to know ...

    https://www.cj3b.info/Tech/Starter.html

    http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Aya...num=1459210810

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/d...opic38252.html

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/s...topic9241.html

  3. #103
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    LarrBeard, there are 2 post there I missed some how. You definitely have a strong search capability! The first link is a great read.

    I think the answer was in the service manual. The CJ3A's use a starter contact that is adjustable. The button that contacts the starter lever, can be increased or decreased in length. This effectively changes the amount of pinion gear engagement before the electrical contacts touch. I think mine is out to far. It is making electrical contact to early, letting the pinion spin up before it is engaged in the ring gear. If that's it, I hope I didn't ruin a nice original ring gear!

    I will check it out after coffee tomorrow. I need to post some pics. Almost done. I pulled it out yesterday under it's own power! A big day at the house. The clutch was very finicky about adjustment. With the "book" 1 and 1/4 inch free-play at the pedal, it would not disengage fully. At 1/2 an inch of free-play, all is well. Between the starter issue and the clutch adjustment grinding of the gears no disengagement, I have a pound of gear dust for sale.

  4. #104
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Good catch on the early spin-up.

    That was mentioned in several of the places I looked. I've fooled around with these things for 50+ years and I never really sat down and realized that when the starter spins up, the first motion of the drive gear is axial, not rotational, as it slides down the spiral cut on the shaft to engage the ring gear teeth. Only when it hits those teeth does it start any real rotation. We understand so many things so late ...

    "With the "book" 1 and 1/4 inch free-play at the pedal, it would not disengage fully. At 1/2 an inch of free-play, all is well"


    Well, we know they will do what they want to do. I made a very nice road trip Saturday to a show that was about a 100-mile round trip. In preparation I made sure that the differential had just exactly the right amount of oil in it "according to the book". Well, it doesn't like that much oil and over the course of the trip it put the oil level back where it wanted it to be. (It throws out the vent on top of the axle - not a leaky seal...).

    It was a fantastic show and I spent most of the day on my feet telling the legend about the truck over and over. It was a fancy show, with Lamborghini SUV's, the "Scoby-Doo" cartoon truck, a Batmobile from up at Auburn, ADAM-12 car and such. Corvettes were as common as elbows - but only one old Jeep.

    Little kids "drove" it, as well as a couple of their Grannies. And, as you will find out when you start taking your Jeep out - everyone had one "just like that" when they were kids. You know the car show sign -"Don't touch me, I'm not that kind of car". The Truck says "Touch me, I'll probably giggle!"

    I'm looking forward to Toledo.

  5. #105
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If I were to have a sign at a car show, it would read only touch if your tetanus shot is up to date.

    Great information on the starter adjustment! We all learn a little bit more every day.

  6. #106
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    It is Parade Ready.. I think

    OK time to put in some final pics. It was a fun project without question.

    Some final thoughts on the MD Juan tub. All and all it is a good value. It is not a turn key kit. I still have a fender that needs adjustment that I can't get. It is just to far out. The biggest challenge by far has been the throttle. The hole position, the firewall behind the linkage on the engine, it was very bad. Even after a lot of modification it is not perfect. The holes for the windshield wiper motors are not centered in their mounts. I had to file a new paint job to oblong the holes. The windshield seal will never work. I have a list of things that occurred on the tub. I will post it in tech.

    I have about 10 miles on it now, several short runs. It is running hotter than I like. I am convinced I received a wrong thermostat from KW. I ordered a 160 but, the L134 runs right up to 180 and seems to hold there, as long as I am moving along. A little running through the grass however and the temp runs right up to 200. When it shuts down it will go up over 210. It is not boiling over however, I am not sure I trust the new gauge. I have a few oil drips to find. As it builds cooling pressure, the dag nab manifold stud is still steaming water. It seems like no matter how hard I tried to prevent it, it still has a few small leaks. It tracks well and smooth. I am going to run a mock up parade route to make sure it doesn't get to hot.
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    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-06-2019 at 07:44 AM.

  7. #107
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Chasing Gremlins

    Put it up in the air and started at the Gremlins.

    An oil drip from the front motor plate lower stud. Pull it out, silicone, back in.

    Rear Exhaust Manifold Stud!! Brutal little #$%@*. Drain the water, pulled it, cleaned it with a small engine brush while spraying with brake clean. Blew it out. Using the Machinists suggestion, black silicone sparingly on the threads. I will let it dry overnight.

    Pulled the thermostat. It has to be wrong. I drove it 5 miles at 40 MPH. And it holds a steady 180. I bought a 160. I sat down with the local auto parts store, an old time store. We used a cross reference and size chart to determine a Made in USA Stant part number 13006, 2.125 diameter. So I drilled an air relief in it, and made a new gasket.
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  8. #108
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    "... So I drilled an air relief in it,..."

    Ok - what is this trick?

  9. #109
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    "... So I drilled an air relief in it,..."

    OK - what is this trick?
    Well "back in the day"... This one comes from the 60's early 70's. Thermostats used to have a small "valve" or floating brass rivet that allowed air that might be trapped to pass through a closed thermostat. It was thought that air that was introduced to the block and heads, would get trapped on the back side of the valve. The small hole in the flange would allow the air to escape, preventing a steam trap that would keep the thermostat out of the water.

    Sometime in the 60's or 70's that small hole was left out. At that time we stated putting them back in with a Black and Decker. I can tell you this whole theory depends on one heck of a good seal between the T-stat and the housing and the T-stat valve itself. I think it would be rare to find one that tight.

    The air hole is a good practice with no bad side effect. On these L134's, the T-stat housing is sitting way up there. It is begging to trap air. The original bellows design T-stat sat right in the water in the head, where it should be. The L134 is a low pressure low volume system. The modern pellet T-stat needs the spacer and sits way up in the housing. It also is more for a higher volume higher pressure system. The water bypass itself in the new style wax pellet valve is 1" diameter, and opens to almost 3/8". The bellows units are 1 1/8" diameter, and open to almost 1/2", making for more water flow. A 1/8" hole drilled in the "modern pellet" T-stat should get the water up there quicker if the stat is sealing well against the top of the housing. It looks like it wouldn't hurt to put in several. The modern style T-stat is a significant flow restriction in the bellows designed system. I am going to look into a few things.

    Getting the modern T-stat back into the head and increasing the flow capability of the modern T-stat.
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    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-07-2019 at 07:05 PM.

  10. #110
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    That just might be the tip of the week! Next time out I'm gonna perforate mine too

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