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Thread: CJ-3A First Willys

  1. #41
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Progress is starting to show ...

  2. #42
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    How do these seats work?

    OK so now In addition to not knowing what to do for a top, I cannot figure these seats out.

    I have the original seats. Of course the repro tub is not drilled for them. No big deal but it just doesn't seem right. What holds the rear outsides of the seats? The front mounts are obvious (except for exact location). The rear seat mounts however have me a bit. To the inside it is good. A metal strap bolted to the floor. But on the outsides? Does the seat just set down on the rear inner fender? It seams it would rattle like crazy. I must be missing something on the front seat, outside rear mounts.
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  3. #43
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The passenger side rests on what should be two brackets with rubber bumpers installed. There wasn't a latch or hardware that kept the seat in place, until there was a field fix on the M38A1. This consisted of a barrel door latch that was tacked on the rear portion of the tool box. This would hold the rear of the seat down. This wasn't done by the factory, but we have seen several of examples of the motor pool having been completed.

    The driver's side was bolted down via a caged nut welded to the underside of the rear floor, next to the riser.

  4. #44
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    What about the body side of the seats on the rear corners. I have welded nuts under the tub for the inside straps. you can see the straps in the photo. On the CJ3A it appears both inside rear corners bolt down. I have seen the latch mod. It would sure speed up access to the tool box. I have not seen the bumper you speak of. I wonder if someone has a photo.The seats have a strap that runs to the floor on the driveshaft side. On the fender sides however there is nothing. It seams the seat frame just sets down tight against the tub inner fender.

  5. #45
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    The troubles with the Repli-Tub

    Well in addition to not fully understanding how the seats work, there are some fitment issues. This is the delux tub kit from KW. All in all the kit fits pretty good. I am basing this on the horror stories I read about the earlier body's. These all come from MD Juan in Puerto Rico. They have made a lot of corrections.

    The firewall hit the throttle shaft bracket and arm at the rear of the motor where they attach. This kept the tub from moving far enough forward. I had to heat and bang a small indentation. I needed about 3/4" more room.

    The holes in the floor for the clutch and brake are about 1/2" to close together.

    It is a CJ3A tub. The dash is set up for a CJ2A starter/coil switch.

    The big problem that I need advice on:


    The windshield is not centered. The arm on the passenger side is much closer than the arm arm the left. I do not know how to go about correcting this. I have read persons use heat and bend the arms to correctness. I shudder at the thought.
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  6. #46
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    More windshield
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  7. #47
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    It looks like the passenger side windshield sits down on the cowl as well. I've never had to deal with this, so take my advice with a handful of salt ...

    Apply BFH and BFT (BF torch) heat, pound gently and adjust to fit.

    GMWillys and I are used to the drawing note:

    "Hammer to close gap. Weld, grind flush and paint to match. Stamp "Interchangeable Part". Pack, ship and send invoice".

    Yeah, it's annoying to have to do rework on things you've spent good money on, but it's the best of the few choices you have. Let us know how you solve this.

  8. #48
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    Hahaha! I love the engineering note! We had a similar saying that used to float around the manufacturing floor. "Beat it to fit, paint it to finish".

    It is setting on the cowl on the passenger side. I think it is because it is shoved so far to the drivers side. It looks like It will be fairly close once it is centered. On the inside the hold down clamps are off an equal amount. They also look like they will line up when (if) the frame is centered. I am going to try a cold bend (and beer) first. If that gets to wild, the blue wrench will follow. I am not sure how to hold the dang thing. This may have happened in shipping. When the crate arrived at my house from KW, the fenders etc. were tied up so to speak inside the tub. Something had fallen on the paper thin crate cover and busted it all up. There is a big dent in the cowl. There is a lot of dents and scratches inside from the stuff banging around. I have a few dents etc. to fix on the outside before paint. When I pull the hinge bolt out of the drivers side, the frame pops rearward towards the back. The passenger side arm seems to be bent and forcing the frame rearward.

  9. #49
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    We use hammer to fit, paint to match. O.D. green CARC paint is easy to blend.

    The outboard seat rests up against the inner fender on the passenger side. The rubber bumper goes on the inner leg of the passenger seat. The driver's side has the three points that mounts the seat.

    The windshield is out of whack. I'll try to get home before dark to get some photos of how they should sit. If you are handy with a torch, that would be the fastest. If you have any doubt, use a come along or a ratchet straps to bring the arms together. With one side closer then the other, you may need to add some heat to draw that side in enough without pulling the other. The trick will be to retain the height of the hinges in relation to the top of the windshield. The mount arm tips should be straight, and not tipped in. It looks like the mounts may be backwards. Again, I'll get some photos.

  10. #50
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    bmorgil;
    You are having the same problem with your windsheild as I did, Not centered worth a hoot....
    I tried heating and bending but the more I fooled with it the worse it got. The only advantage I had over yours is I cut the whole dash out and welded in a solid piece of steel to eliminate all the gauge holes,emergency brake hole and everything else that was standard bc I wanted to put my gauge holes in different locations and add switches for the fog lights,electric fan and other switches down the road.
    By doing that I could mount the windsheild clamps wherever I wanted and you are limited to yours bc it is already set. I ended up cutting the arms off the windsheild and centering it on the cowl and welding the arms back on. The problem if you move yours to center it your windsheild clamps may not line up then you have a bigger problem.
    Grant it mine is far from perfect but it is better than when I started, it took me a 6-8 pack of beer and a half a pack of Winstons to finally say the heck with it it looks good enough.
    A buddy of mine that took 5 years to build his Model A street rod told me "Think everything through before you start cutting and welding" thats why my tub is not PC yet...
    I still have to mount the motor and tranny to make sure my overdrive shifter will come up through the floorbard without cutting,welding,re-cutting and welding and patching.
    Good Luck, just remember Think it through before you start heating,beating,and bending it may cause you some A&* ache you really dont need......You have done WELL so far it looks Great!!!


    58007214567__CDB6277D-0B66-4FD1-8511-06642F4FAFD6.jpg58007209408__CF0F3560-15E9-4BF6-B1C7-791F8C175340.jpgIMG_0213.jpgIMG_0214.jpgIMG_0291.jpg
    Last edited by TJones; 06-13-2019 at 06:47 AM.

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