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Thread: new guy

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2019
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    new guy

    Hi! I don't think I've posted here before so registered and have lots of questions. I think it was 4 years ago I bought a 52 Willys pickup that had not been on the road since 1989. It had always been inside but has some minor rust through in places. I think it has a great patina with at least three paints showing through and lettered business name on the door reading Falls Muffler Shop in faded silver paint. The original (I think) motor was locked up and after applying all kinds of solvents did not loosen so I drove out the pistons and decided that looking for a replacement F 134 was the way to go. A fellow from central Wi. helped me out and the replacement F 134 has hung from a cherry picker for prob. 3 years as the motor mount on the driver side did not line up and life got in the way. I finally retired and have been making progress getting things stabilized. Two days ago it tried to start but only ran a couple of seconds from a gas bottle taped to the windshield. It seems it will make several revolutions from depressing the starter pedal and then when I let up and try again there is nothing. If I go out and tap on the starter with a hammer it might try again. I think it is the top starter switch on the starter which is mechanical and actuated from the pedal inside the cab. I have a new switch but not sure how to wire it and kind of like the mechanical aspect. Anyway today it started and ran for 30 seconds or so at a high RPM as I only have the carb linkage jury rigged and it was open too much. I was quick to pull the battery cable! I had been noticing when trying to start it that the coil gets pretty hot. Is this normal? What are the expected readings supposed to be if I test it. Also, it started today with one plug out as I was trying to see how much fire it had to the spark plug. It started so soon I didn't get a chance to see. I still have to plumb a radiator, plumb a fuel cell, install the generator and eventually rewire the whole truck. I have to take baby steps as now am on a fixed income. I would sure like to get it on the road and any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Aug 2017
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    Alabama
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    Welcome Wiotaman!

    We are here to help with whatever questions you may have. When you get a chance, take some photos so we can marvel at the patina of your truck. We like that sort of thing around here.

    The starter contact switch is fairly simple. When you pull the two screws on either side of the switch and lift it up, there will be a single cable end coming out of the starter. This will connect with the contact stud within the switch. The mechanical switch is darned near indestructible, with the only real weak point being the spring. The contact surfaces may need to be cleaned from time to time to clean up with a file to remove any oxidation.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    10
    AH-ha! Thats probably why it only turns over on occasion. Now that I have it buried by returning other components to their position I'll have to stand on my head to get it out. This is not going to be a return to show room project but a rat truck that shows the trauma of a life fulfilled and resurrected from the grave. Oh, I'm sure I will be pestering you fellas a lot. Working on mounting and plumbing the aluminum radiator, building a carb linkage shaft (robbing a skid laoder part for this) It seems the motor I bought has two modes of hooking the carb to the gas pedal. I'm picking the one with the least chance of binding that is running up the exhaust manifold side of the motor about 2/3 back from the front. The other one runs up close to the firewall on that side also but they both end up in the same place. So much to do but I got lots of time now. As for pictures. I'll have to try to figure that out.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Ft. Wayne, IN
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    Throttle Rigging

    Quote Originally Posted by Wiotaman View Post
    building a carb linkage shaft (robbing a skid laoder part for this) It seems the motor I bought has two modes of hooking the carb to the gas pedal. I'm picking the one with the least chance of binding that is running up the exhaust manifold side of the motor about 2/3 back from the front. The other one runs up close to the firewall on that side also but they both end up in the same place.
    In spite of the thousands of hours of work and hundreds of skinned knuckles, we probably don't have a good example of an original F-134 carb/throttle setup. Here is what I ended up doing - note the home-made bracket to hold the return spring.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2019
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    Didn't get real far today due to the heat. I made a base for a fuel cell and studied what might be the issue with my ignition switch. It seems that the truck started with the key in the all the way over position but would not stop when turned back to the other two stops. I had to quickly pull the battery cable. This is the early switch with three total positions and used with the mechanical starter w/o a solenoid. (Foot pedal start) The wiring is a mess with no color coding and old fabric covering. I will eventually have to get some new wiring harness. I like your spring fabrication and your chassis looks brand spanking new! I happened to pick up an old spring and found a hole in some linkage to hook one end in and the other end fit around the brake pedal sleeve. It seems to retract nicely. More experiments tomorrow if cooler.

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