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Thread: 1970 Jeep J-200

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5JeepsAz View Post
    Okay so what's the thought on getting a donor?
    Well, for one, I live in a subdivision with a smaller 2 car garage, so I don't have enough room to be dragging something else home. The meat braces under the old floor pans seem to be fairly solid. I took a hammer and smacked them a few times and they sounded solid. With new floor pans the floor should be sound. I think I can make a new cab support using a some C channel, we'll see. Mainly I just want to make sure there are no holes in the floor to prevent heat and fumes from coming in. I plan on installing a roll cage in the cab and will mount my seats and harness's to that instead of the cab floor for safety.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    With the cab mounts/supports being fairly solid, strip them down and apply several coats of a good rust inhibiting primer, then follow up with a liberal application of some heavy frame paint to the inside of the supports. Use a weld through primer on the edges to where you will spot weld the floor pans on, and you'll be golden. I ran across some hat channel for one project that matched the original perfectly, but can not recall where. It came in 8' lengths, and was a darned sight cheaper than the preformed kit. But I did spend a lot of time bending and forming to match the original. Half a dozen to one, six to the other really. I suppose I liked the challenge.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 10-23-2019 at 11:15 AM.

  3. #13
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    Thanks for the tip gmwillys. I received the new floor pans yesterday and I laid them in the truck to see how they would fit and they seem to be a little short. I guess it's a good thing that I saved one of the road closed signs from the old floor lol.

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    1571876731870.jpg

  4. #14
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I would splice in a piece of sheet metal the same gage. Butt weld it in to the other replacement pieces. You'll be happier with it. Most road signs are aluminum, so that would cause you issues down the road with dissimilar metals.
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  5. #15
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    I didn't think about the sign being aluminum.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    It would work as a patch, you can undercoat the mess out of it, but the issue is using screws or pop rivets through the aluminum. The molecular make up of the two different metals will cause corrosion to amplify. The screws will seize in place, and a steel pop rivet will fail in time. An aluminum rivet will corrode the steel.

  7. #17
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    I have searched for days and cannot find anything on this. There is a crack that goes all the way around the rear window. I can't tell if this an actual crack, is it 2 separate pieces or did someone cut this for some reason? Can I stitch weld this? Or does it need a dab of seam sealer on the inside?

    20190830_191418[1].jpg

    In this pic you can see that someone filled it in with some body filler.

    20190830_191404[1].jpg
    Last edited by Trailabite; 10-30-2019 at 02:32 PM. Reason: add pics

  8. #18
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    @ADMIN - it seems that my thread is going beyond being an introduction. Can it be moved over to the proper place or would it be easier if I just start another thread somewhere else (restoration)? Although, it's more of a off build than a restoration.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailabite View Post
    @ADMIN - it seems that my thread is going beyond being an introduction. Can it be moved over to the proper place or would it be easier if I just start another thread somewhere else (restoration)? Although, it's more of a off build than a restoration.
    Drop an email to amy@kaiserwillys.com She is awesome. She will move the thread for you.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Drop an email to amy@kaiserwillys.com She is awesome. She will move the thread for you.
    Done. Thanks

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