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Thread: 1964 Kaiser-Willys Jeep Gladiator Cindy

  1. #31
    Bmorgil - a beautiful example! That is simply one terrific Jeep restored. I'm learning just how much went into it. Congratulations. Thank you for showing it.

  2. #32
    So absolutely positively I know what I'm doing! At this minute, the paint will be put on top of the patina, so as not to remove any originality! This means no stripping. Just scuff it and throw on some single stage. Color is pending. That's what I woke up with. My new plan! I watched a bunch of vintage truck parades on YouTube, is what happened. See, the single stage crowd has period correctness. I like bmorgils paint in the previous post. They didn't do Bondo on a Jeep. They painted some thick, lasting slop that was as functional as anything else. Cindy is a Townside model, meaning not straight off the field, so she would have been waxed for the drive in on Friday night and passable nice. Of course, I reserve rights to change my mind after this cup of coffee.

  3. #33
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you listen closely, your truck will tell you what it wants done.

    I stripped our 2A down to the bare metal, and that's the way it has stayed. There had been some vintage body work that had been done, and would have been a shame to cut it out. Panels were repaired by brazing in new pieces. Long story short, some clear was shot over it, and it will stay that way until we decide to give it the whole body and paint treatment.
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  4. #34
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Man gmwillys, All the original steel is in pretty good shape! You don't see that much anymore on a flat fender.

  5. #35
    Gmwillys that's a beauty! So good to see some friends with the same part of the process. Love your build!

  6. #36
    So I am all set. Simple solution. Paint it red, keep it original. Too many issues with color change. I'm going enamel so if it stays nice, great. It will be a period correct, original color repaint resto. As for the new paint going bad, peeling, fading, if it gets bad even better, I know where the good petina is underneath, so I know what new paint can be sanded off to go with that look by revealing only what Iwant underneath. So next time you see her, Cindy will be red!

  7. #37
    Member scoutingranch's Avatar
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    Smart Az. I'm a fan of single stage paint and keeping the original color.
    "Options are for girls"

  8. #38
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    We spend a lot of time planning how we paint our Jeeps. After all, when we’re done with all of the mechanical things we do to get it to run right, the paint job is what everybody else sees.

    It’s hard to get a paint job that looks like the original, and that is a good thing. Paint and finish technology has come a long way since the CJ 2A’s rolled out the door at Toledo. When I was planning the paint job on the ’48 truck, I read a lot about vintage paint. Willys-Overland was not noted for the quality of their paint – sad to say.

    One writer wrote (as a joke I hope) that the only consideration at Willys in WWII was to get it green and gone. His tongue in cheek claim was that the paint department was a group of barn painters with worn out brushes. When Willys turned to civilian production in 1946, they upgraded and gave the paint department new brushes. Now, we all know it wasn’t that bad, but a 1946 or 1953 paint job would look pretty sad today.

    Most 1953 paints were singe stage paints; prime it – paint it and that was the color it was. No top coat to protect and give the shine. (As an aside, when I look at the museum cars at the ACD Museum in Auburn, IN, those display cars with a dozen coats of paint don’t have factory original paint – they look better than they ever did.)

    Single stage paints may be authentic, but they have shortcomings, even the modern ones. There is no top coat and if there is a scratch or ding, you can’t buff out of the top coat and reseal it, you have to match the paint. But, single stage paints do look nice when they’re properly applied over a good primer base. Having said all of that, I went with single stage paint for the ’48.

    After talking to several paint people, we selected a Metacryl Pro single stage paint that was recommended as a tough, durable paint used on over-the-road rigs. It went on nicely but – as we found out later, it didn’t bond to the primer and I’m in the midst of a paint/primer/painter/insurance company exercise to try to get the paint on the truck done right the second time.

    A two stage paint is easier to do repair work on, but just about any modern paint (even put on by MAACO) will make a Jeep look as good as new – and probably better!

  9. #39
    Cindy is in the paint shop...

  10. #40
    Sneak peak!!! Before and after ... Get her back Saturday...
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