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Thread: 1964 Kaiser-Willys Jeep Gladiator Cindy

  1. #241
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Looks like the old time photo you posted down below! Much more usable than it was back then. That's a perfect driver man.

    Now about the comment you made about your vacuum issue in another post, get a can man! https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending Many places have these. I have a "Large" camshaft in one of my vehicles that is driven on the street. It has very little vacuum at idle. It has Power Brakes, Air Conditioning, Power Steering, vacuum controlled temperature/defrost and lots of pull on the alternator, The "can" provides plenty of reserve when idling down to keep everything working even if you have to "pump" the brakes a few times in traffic.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-08-2020 at 06:19 AM.

  2. #242
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Alright alright. I'll get get the can.

    The painter remembered the paint code! So now when I go back for my white stripe, everything will match perfectly
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  3. #243
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Alright alright. I'll get get the can.

    The Summit Racing cans are a lot fancier than the cans on a lot of the late cars with vacuum wipers. Those cans were just painted tomato juice cans with a couple of nipples on them for hose attachments.

  4. #244
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The "Cans" sold by Summit and the like, have a check valve in them. They hold a good deal of vacuum and the check valve keeps it locked in. Every time you back off the throttle or cruise, the can recharges. On deceleration it is surprising how much vacuum you can trap in there. You hook up everything that needs vacuum to the cans "Vacuum Out" port. The engine vacuum goes to the cans vacuum check valve/charge port. As the vacuum drops in the engine, The check valve holds the vacuum in the can. When ever the vacuum is greater that the can the check valve allows the can to "charge". They work well.

    Combined with a properly installed and adjusted Idle Solenoid, you would be hard pressed to know you you were using the air and brakes.

  5. #245
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Combined with a properly installed and adjusted Idle Solenoid


    lol. Hoped you forgot about that! After a summer of foot pedal idle advance this is back on the list..

  6. #246
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    How could I forget about Cindy! One of these times that "Double Foot" technique is going to bite you.

  7. #247
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    So I looked into the can from a post you all shared previously. That's a gigantic modification! The thing looks more like a keg than anything else. So it's going in there next spa day. I need to research the auto idle for my carb. I'm so proud of the single barrel Holley that's in there. I don't want the attachment to scratch the carb. Also, I saw on youtubes that it adjusts for lean back behind, so I'll check the fuel mixture once I locate the twist. It seems a little rich. And, today I ordered the headliner from jb Willy's. So depending on the post delays it'll be here in a month or two. I'm down to a simple pinstripe I saw on another truck my vintage, that is about perfect. Maaco said they can do. So we are tidying up here. Next big things are fuel gauge and speedometer. And fix the choke. Etc.

  8. #248
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    A good point there on the idle mixture. Fire it up in neutral e-brake on. Adjust the engine idle screw, to idle at 700 RPM with the air on. Then turn the mixture screw to the highest idle reading with the air on. Turn the idle screw back down to about 650 RPM, turn the air off and see if that idle speed will work when the air is off. If it stays under 850 RPM idling in neutral that would work. Any more than that might get annoying.

    Was a throttle lock an option on that baby? You could always put in a cable throttle lock and manually set the idle when the air is on. I use mine as a "Fast Idle" when the motor is cold. If you can find a craftsman, a nice install of a idle solenoid would be bitchin'. There are many ways to fab up a nice bracket. You just need the right fabricator. Good luck, if you can get it done it would sure end that problem.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-19-2020 at 12:34 PM.

  9. #249
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Don't have a e brake neither, but I'll do what you said by ear. It ..sounds.. like it could be good advice. I'm not much on number crunching though, to the point of being skeptical on the issue. Probably just twist the thing until it sounds good with the air on. As for duct tape, I do think it might help hold the idle. If not, I'll do a mod of some kind. Someone on here told me it's a simple attachment, so I'll maybe consider it. I like the bitchin ride part. Well said! If I could get it to be that, it would be good. Lots of guys work so hard on their builds here. Not me! Look out everyone else cause I roll a vintage daily driver with three feet baby!

  10. #250
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Well looky here. My carb actually has two barrels. Yeah, I read all about it. Says it's the heart and soul of performance. After that was some pretty tenuous numbers, pictures of things 'blowed apart' schematically of course. Anyway, two things. First, I won't be touching this thing without a mechanic. Second, I'm trying to figure out if my Holley 2300 P/N 0-4412S either already has an idle advance for a/c capability, or if it is aftermarket add to my old jeep, then it should be that A-dapter y'all been talking about conveniently available on the web. So I'm still learning. One thing though, it's a serious business best left to people who know stuff. I'll adjust the idle, maybe the lean, but this thing is more intracerebral than myself. I won't be making fun of vacuum tubes anymore. They seem very important to measure with precision necessary for optimal performance.

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