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Thread: 1964 Kaiser-Willys Jeep Gladiator Cindy

  1. #21
    LarrB that took about thirty seconds then got pretty funny. Lol. I got more done on passenger side door today. It really is hours.

  2. #22
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    He's a crafty joker isn't he.

  3. #23
    All I think about is paint. I followed some advice and bought a rotary. One could become an artist with that thing. I've burned a bit of paint and a couple edges. Overall though, it could be good. The plan is to slop on this Lukat Fixit detail product using a 4" paint roller over a two feet length. Run the rotary with the yellow pad. Clean pad. Wipe paint. Repeat. That should get the doors done, and the frontice piece where the wipers are. Taking the side mirrors off first. Then do the same process with the sealer. Should be purty. Now these trucks have a cool windshield overhang. Underneath is the same petina. That will be a challenge to do evenly with no burn. Back window will need tape on the rubber, maybe the edge. Anyway, goal is cab all done tomorrow. If it looks as great as hoped, I'll post a pic of the finished cab.

  4. #24
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Sounds like it will come out purdy.

  5. #25
    Ugh. Stripped and grinded and polished. Sooooo close! If she had a bit more original paint I'd keep her as is. Truth is, someone sanded her for paint decades ago and that's what it looks like. So even though the petina is awesome, the pattern just ain't good. Gotta paint. Frowny faces.

    On the paint card uploaded into pictures, I'm heading toward 1964 Amber metallic, full paint. Apparently 1964 year had the white lettered tailgate, so that could happen. Probably painting the bed as they didn't do liner the same way back then. Appointment with Maaco today. Not going show quality, want quality daily driver.
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  6. #26
    The paint guy said, I should just clear that right now. Others seem to like the badass Jeep truck aspect. So I'm going to rust the metal, shine up the red, and wax it old school style (just carnuba, not acrylic). See what that feels like driving around. Paint guy created a do-able repainting plan, so I can do that fairly easily after brakes and a/c are done. That way paint is last. The only thing hanging is electric ignition changeover. Still thinking about that. I'll post pics once I've finished the rusto waxing part. All opinions welcome.

  7. #27
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Opinion

    "All opinions welcome.[/QUOTE]

    In Arizona you can get away with "patina" cuz you don't have salt and CaCl. Patina is good, it's a Jeep thing.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    My son loves the patina. I love the electronic ignition conversion.

  9. #29
    Thank you for the comments. They help alot with this build.

    Here's from today:

    Rusto. Well, fail. Did not like the rusto look. Posted a couple of pics. So you mix up some hydrogen peroxide, salt, and white vinegar, apply to the bare metal, wait, repeat. It looked really cool from about 2 feet. It looked awful from across the parking lot. This is just my 2c, ymmv. I took it off with CLR and washed Cindy in a foam bath. I might wax heavy before paint, if paint takes awhile to decide.

    Maaco. So YouTube's says the paint is decent if you have a good shop and are not looking for show quality. Cindy will get stripped bare metal, scuffed, primered. Then it begins. Single stage (clear and paint together) is period correct, so it looks right. However, way better all around is another base coat sanded with paint layer(s) then clear layer(s), called two stage or multistage paint. Here's the funny. Ever see an antique car that was just too pretty? Maybe it's because multistage paint ain't just right, like overdone, like putting email on a wristwatch. It's possible. Basically all opinions as far as paint goes.

    I'd like to hear some advice. Oh yeah, the mechanic was not pleased when I said electronic ignition was at the end of the list nowcthat paint is involved. Go figure lol.
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  10. #30
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I went through exactly what you are thinking about on paint type. I had the body painted off the vehicle. The opportunity for absolute perfection was there. My body shop produces top show quality, very custom show stuff. Chop and Channeling, two many layer paint, candy, pearl all of it. Custom vintage cars 42' Merc's, wow.

    I started at a professional paint supplier to the body shops. I told him I wanted it to look just like it did in 1950. He said no mater what paint looks a lot better today. However, the "Fleet" paints those used in large quantities for fleets of vehicles at a time, are super durable, easy to apply and have a very similar look to earlier paint.

    At the body shop they started filling and working on all the welds and mild imperfections when an all stop was sounded. Being in Toledo is helpful when you need to see examples of original Willys Jeeps. Low and behold if you want it to look original you had better not smooth out all those imperfections! Some of the replica stuff had to be cleaned up, but all in all, they made it look like it was 1950 all over again. It is a beautiful paint job. It is nicer than original but it looks very similar as near as you can compare it. The body shop loved the way it filled and laid down. It won a first place on it's first outing. I attached a pic of what I used.
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    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-13-2019 at 01:09 PM.

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