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Thread: New Willys Jeep owner

  1. #51
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    I've got my speedo working. It was the actual gauge that was bad and I was able to use the "civilian" speedo cable. I rewired a lot of frayed and spliced wires behind the dash only to find out none of my lights work - so, back under the dash I go to figure out what didn't get hooked back up. Another issue is the fuel gauge pegged out at "full". I hooked up a ground wire to the gauge thinking that was the issue and it's not. Spoke to Mark at Kaiser Willys who said the gauge needs to match the sending unit. I'm not sure if it does. One more thing, the charging system. I changed out the 12-volt voltage regulator with a new one. The system is still charging at over 18-volts. Next week I'm taking it to a local business that specializes in automotive electrical. I want to have all the kinks worked out in time for the annual Jeep Run on Daytona Beach in April.

  2. #52
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    One Piece at a Time

    Quote Originally Posted by DougL View Post
    Next week I'm taking it to a local business that specializes in automotive electrical.
    That's a wise move. We get to the Dirty Harry stage; "It's a wise man who knows his limitations".

    Try as we do, we can only guess so much without getting greasy or skinning our knuckles along with you

    A. If the system is charging at 18-volts, it may be good that you don't have lights yet - or you might have flashbulbs that turned into dark bulbs.

    B. 18-volts may be contributing to the "FULL" gauge as well. Whoever did the conversion may have only changed the fuel gauge, the sender, neither or both. And, you never know what he changed them to!

    It's back to Jeep Rule 1: Believe only what you see; trust nothing someone wrote down or told you...

    I am still curious why you are getting the 18-volt charge, maybe an internal ground on the field coils? When the shop finds the issue, have them tell you what it was , not the usual "Well, it's fixed now". It will go in the catalog of things we can help someone else with later on.

    You're gonna' make party - but you have to post pictures ... !

  3. #53
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    My light issue was magnified to a complete meltdown. What I believed based upon the wire length was it belonged on the battery post on the back of the ignition. So I touched the wire to the post, turned on the lights and they worked! However, I did notice a little smoke upon touching the wire to that post. I went ahead and connected it to the battery post on the back of the ignition, reattached the battery terminal and had nothing. No lights, no ignition, nadda, zilch. No power at all. This is so frustrating and challenging. Is it possible I fried the ignition switch? Does the lights connect to the ignition battery post?

  4. #54
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    DougL, I truly believe at this point, get the wiring diagram in front of you. If you don't understand it, I would not hesitate to find someone who does. Give them the diagram and let them "have at it". I think we can walk you through a lot on the written word. At some point you are going to have to use the meter and the schematic. If you are not comfortable with that, not to worry! Many are not familiar with wiring, especially 1952 stuff! There is no "Plug and Play" here. I would hate to see "irreplaceable smoke" emitting from whatever someone has hooked up.

    If we were close it wouldn't take long with a Volt Ohm Meter and a circuit diagram to get you on your feet. This is basic DC circuitry. A person who knows that will breeze right through it for you.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 01-04-2020 at 06:52 PM.

  5. #55
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You can Google the wiring diagram, and you can see what wire goes were. My first reaction would be that the fuse is popped on the light switch itself because if my recollection is correct the power goes to the light switch first, then to the ignition switch. I'll look in my book to see if I'm correct in the morning.

    Looks like you are about a five hour drive from our rust ranch, if all else fails.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 01-04-2020 at 07:21 PM.

  6. #56
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    I honestly believe my biggest issue is the voltage. We all know the M38A1 was originally 24-volt which mine is not. From what I'm seeing, it's a mixed bag of gauges, different voltages and a wiring debacle. Monday morning I'll make an appointment with a reputable automotive electrical business nearby, take it there and tell them to call me when it's fixed. Problem solved.

  7. #57
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wise choice Doug! Put your energy into what you can get done in time for the show.

  8. #58
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    Welcome Doug, I am a new member also trying to find proper navigation through the forum. Sounds like an awesome jeep!! Don't know if I am comfortable suggesting anything, being new and all but, no in harm in thoughts. I am all about the more original the better minded. Kaiser I'm sure has the parts to sustain your 24 volt systems. Tough call. My jeep was already converted to 12 volt when purchased and recently had to replace the alternator which has a built in regulator and diode bridge. $60 dollars for a Delco Rem alternator. No volt regulator, compatible 12vdc through out. I do not plan on selling my jeep so I need something, maintenance friendly and my 12v systems do that. If more original it is, the more value it holds. I sure the ultra enthusiast would agree and keep it 24. Have fun with your new toy. I know I am. Everytime I go into my garage, even on a bad day, I smile when I see my jeep. Respectfully Jim

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jallen1795 View Post
    Welcome Doug, I am a new member also trying to find proper navigation through the forum. Sounds like an awesome jeep!! Don't know if I am comfortable suggesting anything, being new and all but, no in harm in thoughts. I am all about the more original the better minded. Kaiser I'm sure has the parts to sustain your 24 volt systems. Tough call. My jeep was already converted to 12 volt when purchased and recently had to replace the alternator which has a built in regulator and diode bridge. $60 dollars for a Delco Rem alternator. No volt regulator, compatible 12vdc through out. I do not plan on selling my jeep so I need something, maintenance friendly and my 12v systems do that. If more original it is, the more value it holds. I sure the ultra enthusiast would agree and keep it 24. Have fun with your new toy. I know I am. Everytime I go into my garage, even on a bad day, I smile when I see my jeep. Respectfully Jim
    Thanks for the input Jim. My system is mostly 12-volt already with a few exceptions that I'm trying to figure out. I was able to find a wire that accidentally fell off while replacing some frayed and spliced wiring. Once I found out where that wire came from, my Jeep started again! Huge relief as you may imagine. I am taking it to a Automotive Electrical shop this week to have them diagnose why I'm putting out 18+ volts to the battery. After that is fixed, I will work on other details to my liking. Good luck with your project, they are a lot of fun!

  10. #60
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    Got the electrical problem finally solved - two wires from the generator to the voltage regulator where crossed causing the generator to bypass the regulator altogether. Next week the ole girl goes into the transmission shop for an overhaul of the transfer case. I'm going to have them go through and repair and/or fix whatever may ail her and reseal. Hopefully that will slow down the steady flow of 90 weight!!! I'm now looking for the right size ammo cans to cut up and install 6x9 speakers in them for some music. Thanks for everyone's help!

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