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Thread: New Willys Jeep owner

  1. #71
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    Good information. You know, what's interesting is that in these farm tractors they have basically the same type of ring gear and pinion and they use a hydraulic oil in everything and the heat gets much higher in those. Do you suppose the gears are made of a different type steel for these? That oil looks to be no more than about 30 wt.
    Last edited by okiemark; 01-11-2020 at 09:57 AM.

  2. #72
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Well we are getting close to going off the deep end of gear design! okiemark you have the greatest questions!

    The design of the gear set, the amount of cooling lubricant available, the additive package in the oil, if there are wet brakes in the trans-axle, just some of the considerations. Hydraulic oil (not hydraulic fluid) is packed with additives to make an oil act like a hydraulic fluid and vice versa. My Ford tractor takes the same Hydraulic Oil in the only fill hole there is in it. It lubes and runs everything. My IH tractor uses Hydraulic Fluid and Gear oil the two systems are isolated. One of many important considerations in gear design is noise and heat. The Hypoids came after the first design of "Spur Gears". Spur gears ran on anything. Usually Whale oil or Mineral Oil and in more modern times, engine oil. Spurs are straight cut gears. Loud and strong, and warm running under load. Not real good with high speed. The Hypoids were able to reduce the noise dramatically. Consequently the heat was better controlled under load. An EP additive in the oil was required. In addition gear speed in application is considered in the gear life. There are many aspects to the actual tooth design now. Compromises are made based on the application.

    For us Jeepers, stick to no EP in the synchronized transmissions/transaxle assembly. EP in the Axles.

  3. #73
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    I bet whale oil is hard to find.

  4. #74
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    I have a combine that has hydrostatic drive and everything, reel drive motor, steering, header lift, hydrostat, steering, everything except the final drives run Dexron II.

  5. #75
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Dextron II is really good stuff! Whale oil is tough to find! Ha ha could you imagine? That would anger a "Group" or two. Whales dying to lube a Jeep.

  6. #76
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Unless I'm mistaken, wasn't the GM corporate limited slip differential friction modifier, (sold at the dealership only for around $12 for a 4 ounce bottle) was whale oil. I remember it having a distinctive odor beyond the normal stink of the gear lube.

  7. #77
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Ah the infamous "Skunk Oil". Friction modifier was the official name. It did stink! I think Mopar had it also. Still needed on clutch style posi-tractions today. Though I don't know if its Whale oil!

  8. #78
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    I had to replace my oil gauge. Item #A1198 (Kaiser Willys) is the 10" high pressure hose from the engine block to the SS tubing. My question is, can the high pressure hose be retrofitted to connect to the back of the oil pressure gauge to eliminate the SS tubing? Or does anyone know where I can purchase a long length of high pressure hose for the gauge?

  9. #79
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Oil Gauge Line

    Quote Originally Posted by DougL View Post
    I had to replace my oil gauge. Item #A1198 (Kaiser Willys) is the 10" high pressure hose from the engine block to the SS tubing. My question is, can the high pressure hose be retrofitted to connect to the back of the oil pressure gauge to eliminate the SS tubing? Or does anyone know where I can purchase a long length of high pressure hose for the gauge?
    At 45 PSI max I wouldn't consider that a high pressure hose by any means.

    If you want to convert the metal line from the fire wall to the gauge to something else, look at KW P/N B0631 on page 209 of the 2019 catalog.

    Alternately, just about any hose shop can make up a length of hose with the proper fittings on either end.

    Good Luck.

  10. #80
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly, those are just compression fittings on the lines and gauge ends, and 1/8" pipe into the block.

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