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Thread: 1957 cj-5

  1. #21
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    Jeep11.jpg (77.3 KB) Jeep12.jpg (73.3 KB) Jeep13.jpg (62.9 KB) Jeep14.jpg (63.0 KB

    Got a picture showing the backing plates cleaned up and painted with the new shoes on and ready to put on the differential. And three pictures showing how it looks. Now I have all the new brake lines put on and the drive shafts put back in after replacing the transfer case seals. The oil that came out of the transfer case and tranny looked a little nasty and I think some water had gotten in there. Am thinking about flushing it out with some diesel before I put the 90 wt back in.
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    Last edited by okiemark; 01-04-2020 at 09:12 PM.

  2. #22
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    As for the paint colors. The engine was originally red. The body color was red but I'm not sure if the engine and body color was the same. I painted the engine and bell housing International Harvestor red. The valve cover and side color appeared to be aluminum or silver so that's what I went back with. I did change a couple of things to black like the fan and timing cover, and to add a modern touch the oil dipstick/cap is yellow.

  3. #23
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Your doing a nice job there Mark
    Keep up the good work and you’ll have a Beauty!!!

  4. #24
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That is looking excellent!

  5. #25
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Great job!

  6. #26
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    Decided I would put brake fluid in the master cylinder and test the new parts. Of course, there was one brake line connection I had failed to tighten completely and then developed a leak at the master cylinder. Thought it was where one of the brake lines screwed into the manifold, but that wasn't the case. It was at the crush washers where the manifold is bolted to the cylinder. Took it off and to my surprise someone had put in a crush washer that was too thin and wasn't even copper. That triggered another order from KW. Decided to pull the pan and clean it up inside and out now.

  7. #27
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Man, I leaked on mine also. Got it all together and the crush washer at the master leaked. I really had to tighten that sucker. It of course ruined the new paint on the heat shield below the leak.

  8. #28
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    Well, that was one of the few things I didn't take apart as the master cylinder looked pretty new. The last guy fudged and put a washer in there that didn't belong.

  9. #29
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    The previous guy who put the pan on sure did like his silicone. I could see it bulging out between the pan and the block so that made me want to pull it off. Gave me a chance to clean out the gunk in the bottom of the pan but everything else on the bottom looks good. I'm not a fan of the clear silicone for engine gaskets. I like to glue the gasket on the pan or valve cover with weatherstrip adhesive so it can dry and not slip, then use a very small amount of heat resistant silicone between the gasket and block.

  10. #30
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes I agree, a good sign to pull the pan off. There are a few spots where it works fantastic. In general it must be kept out of the motor that's for sure. It will harden in the oil and drift around. It can really "gum" up the works! I also like to use only an adhesive like High Tack. If the surfaces are good, often I use nothing. Especially if that's the way it was originally assembled, and there were no signs of leaks, and I am using high quality gaskets.

    Getting a look inside the oil pan at the rods and mains is great! A great chance to clean out any crud. It sounds like your in great shape. A nice way to see if anything scary is going on!

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